Friday, November 29th, 2019

(Post-facto)

Location: Dockweiler State Beach, Los Angeles, CA

Time: Morning ( 7am — 9:30am)

Conditions: Consistent 2–4 foot mixed swells with plenty of energy in the water, rising tide, cold offshore winds

Equipment: 8' Almond surfboard

Company: Uncle Brian ( observing) , Cherilyn

It was the day after Thanksgiving. It was quarter to seven as Uncle Brian and I made the drive down Vista del Mar in my Prius. I took out my wallet as I approached the attendant at the parking lot entrance, ready to pay the $5 fee for admittance. The sun was still low in the sky behind us as I changed into my wetsuit, a chilly offshore breeze in the air. It was cold enough that my uncle borrowed by beanie to wear on the beach while I surfed. It was my first time this season wearing booties on my feet…and my thicker Patagonia 3.5mm fullsuit for a little extra insulation from the cold. The beach was nearly deserted as I made my way towards the breaking surf.

I paddled my way past the breaking waves easily enough. The surf was messy — peakey swells breaking to the left and right, right and left. After a couple unsuccessful attempts, I managed to catch a fun right for my first ride of the day. A few rides later, I’m sitting on my board and happen to look over my right shoulder and notice the fin of a dolphin breaking the surface. There’s a couple of them swimming my way. I look back at Uncle Brian, standing on shore watching, and point at them. He gestures to indicate he sees. Seeing dolphins in the water never gets old.

Cherilyn, as expected, arrives at the shoreline shortly thereafter and begins the paddle out. We exchange morning greetings after having seen each other at Thanksgiving the night before. We each catch several fun rides. By now, the constant oncoming surf has made paddling back out a bit of a challenge. Nevertheless, we keep making our way back out for more. As always.