Day 28: In Search of Flamenco

I wanted to be wowed by Flamenco on this trip and, after our experience Friday night, was having doubts. Searching for “flamenco show” or even trying to narrow by searching for “menú del dia with flamenco show” brought up overwhelming lists with a heavily tourist-focused feel. One FB group member suggested that we just walk around touristy areas and we’d find flamenco buskers. I get it — it’s not like we’re the only people to visit Seville in search of flamenco. We gravitate away from touristy things and, even when we’re literally tourists, work to stay with more organic experiences.

As usual, our day started with a stroll to find coffee. On our way we spotted our first Spanish Aldi so we popped in on our way back to the Airbnb. It was a perfect blend of familiar and foreign, and allowed us to grab supplies for our train ride home (I forgot to mention this yesterday, but getting food in the Madrid train station netted us our 2nd most expensive meal since arriving in Spain). See, not touristy.

We lingered on our terrace, thankful for its shade as the day was already hot, and planned out our afternoon. GF lunch was the driving force, and seeing the Plaza de España would be our next stop with the intention of painting whatever we found in the plaza. So, touristy with a twist.

I had fish, shark, to be exact, at lunch. This is such a monumental thing we filmed it. Why? I don’t (didn’t?) do seafood beyond tuna in a can. Moving to Valencia is something some people do BECAUSE they can get access to amazing seafood. I committed to trying it if only so I could avoid being shunned. The restaurant was tucked into a very touristy area complete with horse-drawn carriages and people walking around selling things. Oh, and ornate castle-like pieces of history.

The walk to the restaurant took about 15 minutes, and google said the walk from there to Plaza de España would be the same (so basically a big triangle). Did I mention that it was hot? It was hot enough that we stopped to buy water from a street vendor on the way! The scenery between the restaurant and the park was full of these historic and majestic buildings. I imagine these are what some people are visiting Seville to see (as evidenced by all the tourists walking with us, some of them in huge guided tour groups) but I really just wanted to see some dancing.

And there they were. Across the street from the water lady and with a castle-like building behind them, a group of four — guitarist, singer, clapper, and dancer — were making flamenco magic.

We stayed for the end of one number and the next full one. I was mesmerized. Also amazed that the dancer could do her stuff in the heat! They had a flyer in the baskets they used to collect tips and I grabbed one. Yes, very touristy.

Our quest for the plaza was thwarted by some cultural event (likely related to the flamenco festival) so we didn’t get to see or paint it. We did have a lovely walk, got a taste of flamenco, and accidentally took in the touristy sights.

The flyer I’d grabbed pointed us to a show and we booked tickets. The disappointment of Friday night left me less willing to take chances, and we’d seen (and liked) what this group had to offer. The Airbnb was perfect for doing some afternoon rehydration and a nap before setting out for our evening adventures…so perfect, in fact, that we overslept and needed a cab to get us to the show (not quite) on time. A cab ride that took us down dangerously narrow streets filled with wandering walkers. It was harrowing, and our driver pulled it off with aplomb (as Bill said once we were safely inside the venue).

We were ten minutes late and they’d held the show for us! La Milonga Tablao was tiny (the googles had said “intimate”) and we were one of 4 tables (and there were only 2 additional ones). We squeezed into our spots and the show started.

What. A. Show.

I almost don’t have words to describe it. The guitarist started it off and while I enjoyed it for the sounds I got to see and feel Bill reacting to the technique. Then the singer came out and filled the room with his amazing voice. And then the dancer took the stage. Her intensity and control and artistry — I forgot to breathe several times. The hour long show ended and it took me a minute to regain the power of speech. Seriously. This show is enough of a reason to come to Seville.

The rest of our evening was spent talking about the show. We wandered through the tiny streets our cab driver had navigated and found ourselves not far from where we’d been in the afternoon. We stumbled onto a street fair lane and I found a ring hecho en Seville. We passed fountains and brides and families and dogs. Seville is beautiful even if it is filled with tourists.

Dinner was at the 100% GF restaurant across the street from our Airbnb (croquettes de jamón and pollo frito) where we sat on leaning stools and watched Seville nightlife unfold around us. By the time we got back to the Airbnb we were both tired but still wanted to soak up a bit more of the day so we sat on the terrace and talked more about the show.

We head home today (day 29) and I’ll be consulting the calendar for the next time we can make it down here for another dose of flamenco.