California’s Pacific Coast
When I look back at my travel blog, I see that I have written about Jordan, Leh, Peru, Croatia, Japan, Germany and Cambodia. What is sorely lacking are travelogues closer to my adopted home in the Bay Area. The San Francisco Bay Area is well-known for it’s technology giants and startups, but a short drive either north or south will lead you pristine getaways with amazing natural beauty.
California happens to be the most naturally beautiful state in the US, and possibly in the world as well. I had previously driven down the Adriatic coast of Croatia in 2016, and had found it the most beautiful coastal drive at that time. However, it pales in comparison to a drive down the Pacific Coast Highway (CA State Route 1).
Big Sur
At the top of the list of places to visit along California’s Pacific Coast would be Big Sur. The name is a Spanglish concatenation meaning “The Big South”, and is indeed south of the Bay Area. California has a very prominent Spanish connection in it’s history. The state (as well as parts of Nevada) was a Spanish colony, and was part of Mexico till the mid-nineteenth century. California became part of USA after the 1846 Mexican-American war. Before this date, the Spanish rulers named the country south of Monterey “El Sur Grande”, or “The Big country to the South”. This was then shortened to just “Big Sur”.
Big Sur would definitely be ranked as one of the most beautiful places on the planet, if not the most beautiful place. It’s a personal favorite with me, and I’m sure, with other Bay Area residents as well. A short drive south of about two hours leads you from the Bay Area to Monterey and Carmel — both small, charming coastal towns just north of Big Sur. Continuing south leads you to a two lane highway along the cliffs with the Pacific on the right. There are no mobile signal here, and hence phones would not work. But no one notices that, as the mesmerizing coast on the right and Santa Lucia mountains on the left takes up all your attention. Along the way there are several vista view areas where you can stop and take pictures.
Along the highway, there are a few arched bridges that span across coastal creeks. The most famous of these is the Bixby Bridge, which is quite popular with tourists. It’s possibly the second most popular bridge in California after the Golden Gate Bridge.
Further down, there is the famous Mcway Falls Beach — made famous by Dr. Dre’s music videos, and multiple travel brochures. It’s a small waterfall that drains from the cloffs, onto the beach.
Another beach that’s a little more difficult to access is the Pfeiffer beach. The reason it is difficult to access is because it is the site of the “Keyhole Arch”, which makes it a favorite of all photographers, especially at sunset. Park Rangers guard the narrow access road to this beach, and turn away cars if the parking lot is full. After being turned away thrice, I was able to access it on the fourth try. The multiple trips were worth it to see the rays of the setting sun through this natural arch.
Big Sur has a few restaurants (“Nepenthe” being the most popular) and a few places to stay but they are all frightfully expensive. Nightly tariffs are upwards for $350 for a basic bed & breakfast, and go upto $1,000 for more luxury options.
The Golden Gate Bridge Area
First, an etymology of the name — the reason why it named “Golden” even though it is painted reddish-orange, is because the bridge spans the “Golden Gate” straits. The Sausalito Ferry Company was against the construction as they ran the ferry service between San Francisco and Sausalito — the town north of the straits. The bridge nevertheless was completed, and opened in 1936, and was considered a marvel of engineering at that time.
The best places to view the bridge is from the north side, from either Kirby cove or Marin Headlands. Parking is limited on both of these spots, although Kirby Cove is relatively unknown. Alternatively, the crowded Baker Beach on the south also provides a good view. Of course, one can also walk across the bridge, but good luck finding parking near the bridge! The three or four times I have driven across the bridge, the parking lots have always been full and additional cars not allowed to enter.
A few miles across the bridge is the small town of Sausalito. Sausalito is a very charming waterfront town, with excellent restaurants and cafes. One of the best restaurants that I have been to in the Bay Area — Scomas — is located here.
Santa Cruz
Tucked away just over the Santa Cruz Mountain range, is the beach city of the same name. Being just a 40 minute drive away, everyone in the Bay Area hits the road to Santa Cruz every other weekend. This leads to double the drive time along the mountainous Highway 17 that connects the Bay Area to Santa Cruz. Nevertheless, the Wharf, Beach and many restaurants make it worth the traffic. The drive itself is quite picturesque, even though a few sections are very winding, and call for slower speeds. I first visited the “Natural Bridges” beach, which is a popular beach with an rock arch in the ocean. During the summer months this beach is crowded although the water is never warm enough for a comfortable swim!
The other attraction in Santa Cruz is the Boardwalk and Wharf. The beach here is still crowded but you can always find a spot. Surfing is popular in Santa Cruz, so there are quite a few surfers here. The Boardwalk houses an amusement park, and several restaurants as well. But what I found most appealing about the Santa Cruz wharf is the marine wildlife here.
At one time I was swimming and I noticed what looked like two small kids in wetsuits swimming about 100 feet from where I was. Back on the beach, when I wore my glasses again, I see that these were not kids, but two sea otters! Needless to say that I was “otterly” surprised (sorry, could not resist!).
Besides the otters, sea lions are plentiful in this area, and they routinely sunbathe on the wooden beams of the wharf. Not one or two, but entire families of sea lions are found resting on these planks.
At some time, a youngster will jump out of the water onto the planks, annoying one of the resting adults, resulting in a series of chiding barks. It’s quite fascinating to watch their antics.
Finally, the Capitola beach in Santa Cruz is also a great place to spend a weekend afternoon. It lacks the large wharf and amusement park, but is one of the best places to swim, since the waves are quite gentle here.
Pier-39
I wouldn’t do justice if I didn’t mention in passing the San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf, aka Pier-39. This immensely popular tourist spot is a must-see for anyone visiting the San Francisco area. Some may advise against visiting this wharf claiming it’s a tourist trap, but I would disagree. Yes, it’s crowded, parking may be difficult, but it is still a great place to visit. Once you cross the crowds and make it to the back of the pier, there’s a beautiful view of the ocean and Alcatraz island.The first floor of the Pier has fast-food/quick-bite restaurants and shops. Head to the second floor for the Crab House, to try the famous Dungeness crab.
Once you have had your fill here, head to Dreyer’s icecream shop downstairs, and exit via their back door to a view of the ocean, the pelicans and the sea lions.
I could possibly go on about more places along the Pacific coast, but I guess these were the top three on my list. Of course, there’s more places to visit and write about — I haven’t yet been to the famed Southern California cost!
