Yosemite
Up Close with the Sierra Nevadas
“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine into trees.”
It is said that when John Muir reached San Francisco, he hated the urban city so much that he asked the locals where the wilderness was. The locals pointed him towards Yosemite, and he just started walking until he reached his beloved wilderness. Yosemite was not a national park then, and it was Muir who had the foresight that such natural assets must be protected, and spearheaded the formation of Yosemite National Park in 1890.
Today, Yosemite is so well protected, that one needs to plan well in advance in order to visit it. As of 2020, no one is allowed entry into the park unless he or she has an entry permit. Permits are available online but typically need to be booked weeks in advance. Luckily I managed to get a 3-day pass and was all set to visit Yosemite on a Sunday. Driving down from San Jose took about 3 hours with a stop for gas and a quick on-the-go breakfast. I entered Yosemite via Highway 120, which passes through Groveland. I would be returning to Groveland in the evening, but for now, I drove on through the mountains to the Big Oak flats entry to Yosemite.
Entering Yosemite
Once you have crossed the queue of cars at the park entrance, and the ranger has checked your ID and ticket, you drive on into the park. The drive takes you down the Sierra Nevada range, into Yosemite valley. There are spectacular views all along the way to the valley. Half-Dome — the famous peak which, aptly enough, is in the shape of half of a dome — can be seen in the distance. The Merced river, that snakes along the valley floor.
As you enter Yosemite valley, the view of the granite peaks all around is quite awe-inspiring. There are parking lots and turnouts along the way, letting you walk and explore the valley.
The main attractions of Yosemite are the “Half Dome” and “El Capitan” peaks, as well as the Yosemite falls. All of these can be viewed from the valley.
Tallest Falls in the US
Yosemite falls is the tallest waterfall in the United States, and fifth tallest in the world. As an aside — “tallest” does not mean “largest”. The waterfall is actually quite narrow, but the height is what makes it the tallest. This height reaches upto 2,425 feet (about 740 m) when calculating from the upper cascades. There are three cascades here — upper, middle and lower. The trail to the lower cascades is an easy 15 minute talk. Longer, 2 hour trails lead to the middle cascades and the trail to the upper cascades could take between 6 to 8 hours. Needless to say, most of the tourists visit the lower cascades only, and as a result the trail to this is very crowded.
The signs tell you that in winter, a cone of ice forms on this falls, and it also reflects the moonlight to form a moonbow (like a rainbow, but with moonlight). It sounds magical, and is motivating enough for me to plan a return in winter. The added bonus would be significantly lesser tourists in winter!
El Capitan & “El Diablo’s” Elbow
It was about lunch time by the time I finished exploring Yosemite falls. I headed to Yosemite lodge, which has a decent cafeteria (by “decent”, I mean it’s functional, but nothing to write about) and a small gift shop. After grabbing a quick refreshments I decided to explore El Capitan next. While both Half Dome and El Capitan can be seen from the Yosemite valley, there is also a trail that leads right up to the base of El Capitan. El Capitan is very popular with climbers, although many have died scaling this peak. It is also the location of the popular 2018 documentary-movie “Free Solo”.
While walking along this trail, I realized that the trail is meant for those trying to scale the peak. There’s not much of a view, since you are really close to the peak, but I discovered an interesting place on the way. Just off the road where I parked for the El Capitan trail, there is access to the Merced river. This location is known as “Devil’s Elbow”, and is a sand-bank island formed in the middle of the river, where the river turns left. The water is just ankle-deep, and you can cross over to the island. It’s a real fun place and there were already a lot of families picnicking here.
You can also swim in the river, just downstream of this point, where the water is deeper. The day was quite hot, with temperatures in the 90’s, so of course, I would not let pass a chance to cool off in the river! The view of El Capitan and other peaks while floating on my back in the river is something I will never forget.
Tunnel Vision
After the swim, I dried off the best I could, and then drove on to “Tunnel View”. As the name suggests, this is a viewpoint just off a tunnel. From this point, you can see El Capitan, Half Dome, and another waterfall known as “Bridal Veils Falls”.
Tunnel View is unique as you drive through a tunnel and when you exit, it suddenly reveals a breath-taking vista. I envied those who enter Yosemite through this tunnel. To do that, you would have to enter Yosemite through the Wawona entrance.
Face to Face with the Peaks
Finally — saving the best view for the last — is Glacier Point. This is a bit of way off Yosemite valley, and the drive takes about half and hour. However, it is by far, the best view in Yosemite. Glacier Point is 7,200 feet high. When it comes to mountain altitude, I always find it useful to compare with heights of the Himalayan towns in my native India. At 7,200 feet, Glacier Point is higher than Mussoorie, Srinagar, and just a tad lower than Simla. The view, hence, is that much the better, because it now looks like you are face to face with the mighty granite peaks!
Sitting center-stage in this panorama of mountains is the familiar Half Dome peak. On the right, there are two new, yet un-introduced, waterfalls — Nevada falls and Vernal falls. Just a picture would not do justice to the view, so here is a short video as well.
A Charming Town & a “Haunted” Hotel
While I could have made this a day-trip, I had — as a last minute whim — booked a hotel in Groveland. Groveland is a small (dare I say “one horse”?) town and the hotel here is known simply as “Groveland Hotel”. I had booked this just a day in advance as a suggestion that appeared while searching Google Maps. I had no idea what kind of hotel this was. When I arrived I realized that it is a historical landmark. Being a history buff, I was blown over by this place. It was built in 1849, and served as a trading post and “dwelling house”.
The hotel passed between several owners from 1851 to 1990, and the current owners, have renovated it. The renovation is very tastefully done — keeping the historical charm, while still adding modern comforts. I felt like a nineteenth century gold rush adventurer checking into a Wild West inn! I checked into room 16 on the second floor (called room “116” but the door still says “16”, for some reason), and then had a drink on the lovely patio with live music. Next door, is another historic landmark — the Iron Door Saloon. Of course, I had to visit that as well. Being the history buff like I was, I became like a kid in a candy store. The staff here were super nice. They didn’t mind that I stood wide-eyed at the bar, not ordering anything for a while, but just absorbing it all in.
There were posters hanging over the bar advertising stagecoach prices to ferry travelers to Yosemite. I had my dinner here, and then turned in for a good night’s sleep. The next morning, as I stepped out of my room, I noticed the room opposite mine was marked “Lyle’s Room”, and the door was open. I noted casually that it seemed like a nicer, more expensive room. I went down to checkout, and then read plaque outside the reception, which stated the following — “In 1927, Lyle passed away in room 15. Lyle has been know to entertain guests to this day.”
Well, well…so not just a historic hotel, but it also has a resident ghost! This just made the hotel all the more charming. I wonder why Lyle didn’t come by to say hello that night. Maybe he did, and I was sleeping too soundly to hear him after the drinks in Iron Door last night! Or maybe there is no such thing as ghosts and this is a clever plot to make the hotel more exciting to those who like to believe in the supernatural. Whatever the case, rest assured that a stay in the Groveland hotel would be well worth it.
