DEUTSCHLAND — Living it Up with the Argentinians
Country Snapshot #3 — Germany
First Visited: February 2023
Times Visited: 2 (>1 week)
Cities/Towns Visited: Munich, Dachau, Dresden, Rathen, Hohnstein, Sebnitz, Bad Schandau, Konigstein, Berlin, Hamburg, Bremen
Despite boasting Europe’s largest economy and laying claim as 1 of the world’s most famous countries, Germany has got to be one of Western Europe’s most underappreciated destinations. With its blend of fascinating history, awe-inspiring natural landscapes and quality food and people, it deserves to be right up there with its more fancied French, Italian and Spanish peers. That’s my assessment of my week-and-a-half German adventure.
CITY SNAPSHOTS
MUNICH (DACHAU)
Through no fault of its own, my time in Munich was disappointing. With my sister struck down by a debilitating cold, there wasn’t a whole heap of exploring to do, yet I still enjoyed my time spent in the ritzy Bavarian capital.
Following one of the more scenic bus rides across the Swiss border, cruising on the Bodensee and making new friends along the way, we were in Munich in the late afternoon. And after stocking up at the best of grocery stores (LIDL), it was on to our hostel. Little did I know that brief afternoon glimpse was about all I’d see of one of Germany’s tourist gems.
With our hostel in Ostbahnhof (Western Munich), we were a little out of the centre. But what our hostel lacked in location, it made up for in facilities. A top-notch kitchen, several musical instruments and a reading corner served as the perfect time killers if disaster struck…
Waking up bright and early the next day to visit the Dachau Concentration Camp, the hope was we’d head back to Munich afterwards to check out its sights. As fate would have it, the latter never eventuated.
Gifted with a stinker of a morning, our trip to Dachau was about all we’d muster. In the extraordinary cold, we explored the grounds. With a superb exhibit full of information about NAZI German atrocities, we learned all about Dachau’s history as the prototype concentration camp. Important NAZI officials had been sent here to learn how to manage similar concentration camps elsewhere. This significance was likely why we bumped into several overseas school groups, many from the UK.
Whilst the exhibit was special, what really stood out to me was the eeriness. As we walked through the open fields, trudged through former gas chambers and paid our respects at a memorial site, you couldn’t help but feel a sense of emptiness and sadness. Sadness I’m sure was multiplied in my sister’s case as she battled a cold, demanding an immediate return to the hostel.
As my sister caught up on zzz’s, I enjoyed chilling at the hostel. Planning for the days ahead, it was a much-needed break. I also spent time refining my woeful cooking skills and chilling with the hostel staff. And when night set, and a line formed outside our most trendy of hostel neighbourhoods, I poked my head outside and did some exploring. Turns out there was a massive Ferris Wheel and a fully booked music festival right on our doorstep.
As we said our farewells to Munich the following day, almost missing our onward bus to Austria, I couldn’t help but envisage how my Munich journey could’ve been different.
But that’s the beauty of travelling when you’re young. There’s always time to come back…
DRESDEN (SAXON SWITZERLAND NATIONAL PARK)
After a relatively brisk bus journey from the Czech capital, I was back on German soil (but flying solo). Drawn to the city through a recommendation from a German local in Poland, I could never have anticipated the wonders this city offered.
Finding myself in town after a brief period of madness, (15 or so minutes walking around in circles like a headless chicken), I was immediately gobsmacked by the old town feel of the place. Yet for all my history classes, I was completely unaware that this beautiful Aldstadt (the famous old district before me) had been completely reconstructed in the wake of a hugely destructive WWII bombing.
The place immediately struck a chord with me. I couldn’t help but marvel at how the town had risen from the ashes — how I was walking on what was once rubble and ash.
But there was no time to dwell on history…unless I wanted to miss out on more beauty.
Within the reconstructed old town stood eclectic new buildings. They represented the hip, out-there architecture and culture I would come to associate with Germany. A city full of vibrancy, passion and life at every corner. And this was before I’d even checked into my hostel.
As I crossed the Elbe, a river I’d again marvel at during my journey to Hamburg, I began to truly appreciate the city. On one side stood the Aldstadt, representing the rebuilt old, a testament to Germany’s central place in the world, and on the other side stood the Neustadt, (the new, old neighbourhood — a more modern area spared from the bombings), coming to represent the new, culturally rich Germany distinct from its harsh labelling of old. And my hostel in this hip, new town perfectly encapsulated that.
With its alternative deco, funky feel and some of the friendliest hostel staff I’ve ever encountered, it's no surprise I slept so well. And thank God I did, because when I woke up, I’d be exposed to Dresden’s crown jewel.
After crawling out of my unexplainably bizarre top-story bed in my dorm room, before rugging up and tucking into some yoghurt, I was off to the train station for my Saxon Switzerland excursion. And what an excursion it would be!
With my VVO all-day train ticket (allowing me unlimited bus & train usage throughout the day), I was on my way to Rathen to check out the Saxon Switzerland National Park.
Arguably the most beautiful spot I visited during my 5 month-European stay, the National Park had to be the most underrated. As I pulled into Rathen train station and set sail on a short cruise across the Elbe (not included in the VVO ticket), I was taken aback by the sleepiness of the area. For a place this beautiful, it should not have been this empty.
Confused as all buggery after crossing the river, I luckily stumbled upon an old German woman who set me on my way. Beginning a sharp ascent through beautiful green trees, it was not long before I came across my first vantage point.
Massive boulders paved the way for a majestic view of this pristine landscape. Eager to etch the view into my memory, I took an unhealthy number of photos. But the greatest view came from the top of the mountain beside the stunning Bastei Bridge. With the bridge as the side piece, framing the other-worldly rock formations that characterize the region, I was in nature’s paradise and loving it — especially after recuperating in the mountain-top hotel.
Eager to escape the growing tourist crowds at the top of the mountain, I ventured off into the forestland. Following what looked like a path, before giving way to a muddy swampland, I somehow found my way to a nearby town. That was one of the many towns I visited as I lost track of time, spending hours hiking through the insanely peaceful mountainside.
Fuelled by little more than my morning yoghurt, and DIY trail mix (my own collection of crunchy peanuts & sultanas), I trekked and bused through Hohnstein, Sebnitz, Bad Schandau, Konigstein for the entirety of the day. The last town, with its beautiful church, castle (that I idiotically decided to run up) and furry friends (like Mr Garfield) topped off an unintentionally busy day. As did a home-cooked Argentinian dinner with my Argentinian hostel friends.
It comes as no surprise that the next morning was a bit emotional. Throughout this brief 3-day stretch, I had fallen in love with this city and its surrounding beauty. So, as I tucked into my Berliner and Pretzel, waiting for my FlixBus to the German capital, a place I genuinely dreaded visiting, I started cursing myself, aided by the fact my bus was nearly an hour late.
BERLIN
If I’m being completely honest, the thought of travelling to Berlin scared the absolute shit of out me. Despite already loving Germany, I had heard countless Berlin horror stories from family friends and fellow travellers. So when a kid nearly ran over me with his electric scooter, and another bunch of school kids swarmed me because they thought I was Erling Haaland, it's safe to say my fears were warranted.
Yet after checking into my hostel in Alexanderplatz, walking through Checkpoint Charlie and fortuitously coming across the most pleasant of night markets, my fears were quickly rubbished. Overcoming stigmas and experiencing things for myself are 2 of the main reasons I travel.
Waking up the next morning eager to ramp up my Berlin escapades, I was off on a Berlin Walking Tour. With rain drizzling down and with some new friends from all corners of the globe in tow, I was off to check out this eclectic city's hip spots and highlights. The first of them was a small alleyway adorned with streamers and insane graffiti murals. The coolest? An incredible art mural of Anne Frank. It was the perfect reminder of the nation's dark and brutal past, and Berlin’s integral role at the core of it.
In that same spot was a sick art gallery. Incredible books, paintings and some of the coolest postcards I’d ever seen were the order of the day. I’m not an artsy person, but the place had me completely captivated, so much so I almost lost my group.
With some new postcards, we were off to our next destination. Hopping on the Berlin metro, we were off to the Rolls Royce of art exhibits. The East-Side Gallery, a conserved part of the Berlin wall had been adorned with some of the most incredible graffiti work I’d ever seen. I simply marvelled at the incredible creations and how something so dark (once separating families) now worked to bring people together.
Because the weather was putrid, the tour was cut short. That wasn’t before heading past a massive rave and exploring another incredible art museum. From there, I said my goodbyes to the group.
The art tour was something so incredibly out of my norm. As I mentioned, I don’t consider myself an artistic person at all, but if you’re open-minded to new opportunities and experiences like this one, it can certainly change your perspective. This art tour sparked a newfound fascination for art museums and exhibits throughout the rest of my travels.
With my hands nearing frostbite and my body shutting down, I hobbled my way over to a local mall to stock up on some much-needed food and regain some warmth. With warmth found and my energy replenished, it was back to my hostel where I rested and enjoyed Maklube, a special rice-based dish with the kindest Lebanese man.
My 2nd day in Berlin solidified my love of the city. Despite nearly freezing to death with snow falling (even though I was told it would never snow in Berlin), I had an absolute belter of a day exploring the city’s most famous landmarks and history exhibits.
I was fascinated by the Berlin Wall Memorial and its gripping exhibit. Its balcony, overlooking the border between former East and West Germany was incredibly eye-opening and was a great learning experience.
I admired the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate in all their beauty. Despite the tourist crowds, I couldn’t help but admire their grandeur and their distinctiveness.
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews in Europe was one of the more emotional sites I’d been to. It took me back to my visits to Dachau and Auschwitz and reminded me of the preciousness of life.
The Topography of Terror was harrowing. As I walked through the outdoor and indoor exhibits, I couldn’t come to grips with the horrifying levels of terror a group of people could manage.
The sheer volume of memorials, exhibits and museums definitely took their toll. As I entered my final major museum, The Palace of Tears, a train station that long served to disconnect East from West, I completely lost it. As I watched football fans walking through the train station, now connecting all parts of Berlin, I couldn’t help but feel sadness for those who had once yearned for that same freedom. It reinforced in me that life is just as much about the cards you’re dealt, as the luck you create for yourself. You might have it all together, but sometimes the world can come crashing down around you.
To lighten my mood, it was only right that I finished with a Berlin specialty. With a visit to Berlin 61, I was in heaven as I chowed down on the delight that is Currywurst. It was a rewarding ending to an eye-opening 3-day stay.
Just like that, the ‘scary beast’ that was Berlin had been tamed.
HAMBURG
With my first train ride in yonks, and after babysitting the cutest of babies (making me reminisce about family), I had touched down in the harbour city, Hamburg.
With little to no time to explore on my 1st night, I enjoyed some much-needed rest in the hostel. And not for the first time, I lived it up with some football-mad Argentinians, sharing some biscuits and enjoying a few beers.
After an eventful night, I was up bright and early to take in Hamburg — and boy did I have another busy day lined up. Despite a brief bout of fear as the snow came tumbling down and my hands began to resemble ice blocks, I had a ripper of a time in Germany’s 2nd largest city.
Based in Altona, my first visits were to parks and nature spots out of town. Planten un Blomen, a delightful public park was 1st on the cards before the most enjoyable of strolls along Alster Lake. As I enjoyed my stroll, I marvelled at the hundreds of brave souls running along the lake in their summer activewear. Never before had I seen so many people running, and it gave me inspiration of my own as I fought valiantly against freezing.
Following my stroll around the Lake, it was into the city. The historic UNESCO-listed Speicherstadt was a sight to behold, truly something I had never witnessed. A famed warehouse complex decked out with an oak exterior (I’m trying to send arty ok), it was strikingly different to the rest of Hafen City, with its modern buildings. Amongst these was the Deichtorhallen, an art gallery, which so happened to have a sick, free art exhibit that I revelled in. Germany was quickly turning me into an art connoisseur.
Due to its significance as one of Europe’s largest port cities, and my port-city roots in Fremantle, the Maritime Museum was a must-see. It was a captivating insight into the significance of Hamburg and the Elbe waterway, which I would soon go under.
That was not without a visit to St Michael’s Church first. With its insane interior and a fully packed out service, it was the perfect gateway into the frantic underground Elbe Tunnel and the edgy neighbourhood of St Pauli.
With bikes, and people going absolute gangbusters through the tunnel, the Elbe Tunnel was an experience and a half. Built to transport the port workers back into the city, it was an architectural delight. In spite of the franticness, I took time to appreciate its engineering and the tiles that lined the walls.
But the holy grail of the Hamburg experience was St Pauli. With its graffiti, edginess and roughness around the edges, it felt like I was back on home turf. As I walked past the football fields, with St Pauli playing and the fans going mental, I revelled in the electric atmosphere, feeling the energy and atmosphere from within the stadium outside of the place. Being outside the grounds on matchday was unreal.
Yet I knew I’d have to get a hurry on if I didn’t want to be swarmed by football fans. Heading into the heart and soul of the famous neighbourhood, I explored the colourful streets with its plethora of sex stores and awesome Schmidt Tivoli. And after a brief visit to the Fish Market, which had shut up shop, I was back to my hostel for some well-deserved rest.
There was 1 final stop on my German adventure.
BREMEN
Unlike the rest of my German escapades, my brief Bremen visit was little to rave about. With less than 24 hours to take in the city’s sights, I set off with a friend’s nephew who was studying in the area.
Beginning with a short stroll through the town square, we admired the bizarre Town Musicians of Bremen sculpture and the town hall (home to Syrian protests on the day). After a venture down the famous Botcherstrasse, to tuck in on some delectable candy at Bonbon Manufaktur, that was just about all Bremen wrote. It was a pretty subdued ending to an incredible 1.5-week journey.
But before I said sayonara to Germany, I just had to feast on one of the nation’s most famous imported treats. Enjoying a magnificent Doner Kebab with an overseas friend, before chilling in my brand spanking new hostel, I had the picture-perfect ending to an incredible Deutschland experience.
REVIEW
I cannot speak highly enough of Germany. With its alternative feel and its vibrant culture, history and art scene, it’s a country well worth visiting. Yes, it doesn’t have the picture-perfect coastline or beaches of its more fancied European neighbours, but it's got a heart and soul the envy of Europe. Munich, Berlin and Hamburg will be on most lists but don’t discredit Dresden and the surrounding region. And god forbid, don’t go to Germany without eating a heavenly doner kebab.
Hi, my name is James Johnson and I’m on a lifelong journey to visit every country in the world. Fueled by a passion to better understand the world and the many diverse cultures, religions, and people within it, I’m seeking to visit all 206 Olympic Nations. I’m currently 25 down. Feel free to follow or support my journey by following me here on Medium, and elsewhere on Instagram and YouTube. Maybe I’ll catch you on the road. See you on the flip side!
