Travel — Folklore — Culture
Legends of Fire and Ice
Exploring the enchanting world of ‘Huldufólk’
“Once upon a time, there lived a…” still manages to evoke excitement within me even today! Folktales are enduringly timeless — connecting people across cultures and generations. While planning my trip to Iceland a few years back, I delved into Icelandic folklore to get a better sense of the Icelandic culture and understand its significance. And what I discovered was a world of magic, wonder, and myth! The Icelandic folktales are as much a part of the country’s identity as its stunning natural landscapes. A world of Norse Gods, trolls, elves, giants, ogres, ghosts, and of course Huldufólk or the hidden people who dwell amidst the rocks. Many sagas and tales describe Huldufólk (‘the hidden people’) as mysterious creatures that are hardly visible to humans, avowedly hidden in rocks, hills, and lava fields.
“ONCE upon a time, God Almighty came to visit Adam and Eve. They received him with joy, and showed him everything they had in the house. They also brought their children to him to show him, and these He found promising and full of hope. Then He asked Eve whether she had no other children other than these ones. She said “ None.” But it so happened that she had not finished washing them all, and, being ashamed to let God see them dirty, had hidden the unwashed ones. This God knew well, and said, “ What man hides from God, God will hide from man.” These unwashed children became forthwith invisible, and took up their abode in mounds, and hills, and rocks. From these are the elves descended, but we men are from those of Eve’s children whom she had openly and frankly shown to God. And it is only by the will and desire of the elves themselves that men can ever see them.”
— The Genesis of the Hidden People, Icelandic Legends Collected by Jón Árnason
After acquainting myself with the folklore, my road trip became even more compelling. To add to my excitement, the tour agency who provided us with the driver guide tablet shared some associated folklore for the relevant places. The people of Iceland hold great respect and affection for their Huldufólk neighbors and make an effort not to offend them. Some go to the extent of building and placing miniature wooden houses “alfhol” in places where these hidden people are believed to reside. During one of my memorable stays at a farm, the owner enlightened us with many stories about the hidden people with conviction and passion. It was heartwarming to see such deep faith! He told us how a highway project was blocked because the roadway would go through a territory inhabited by the Huldufólk (hidden people.) The dispute allegedly reached the Supreme Court.
Terry Gunnell, Professor of Folkloristics, University of Iceland, said he was not surprised by the wide acceptance of the possibility of elves/hidden people –
“This is a land where your house can be destroyed by something you can’t see (earthquakes), where the wind can knock you off your feet, where the smell of sulphur from your taps tells you there is invisible fire not far below your feet, where the northern lights make the sky the biggest television screen in the world, and where hot springs and glaciers ‘talk’. In short, everyone is aware that the land is alive, and one can say that the stories of hidden people and the need to work carefully with them reflects an understanding that the land demands respect.”
Experiencing the ten days of the Icelandic summer was like living in a storybook. While it’s impossible to encapsulate everything — documenting few of the gems.
Gullfoss (Golden Falls) is a massive waterfall that thunders down into a deep canyon. The mist from the falls creates a rainbow that spans the entire valley, and the sound of the 105 ft cascading water can be deafening.
“Once upon a time, a farmer named Gýgur lived at Gýgjarhóll. He had plenty of gold and could not bear the thought of someone else possessing it after his lifetime. To prevent this, he placed the gold in a coffer and threw it into the waterfall.” — The Travel Journal of Sveinn Pálsson (1762–1840)
Thus, the name of this magnificent waterfall permanently became the “Golden Waterfall” or “Gullfoss.” Sigríður Tómasdóttir (1871–1957) was the daughter of the farmer who owned the land. Sigríður and her sisters helped build the first trail to the waterfall. In 1979, a memorial sculpture was created in her honor.
The Secret Lagoon was a highlight of my trip — a charming Icelandic experience. This natural pool is the oldest in the country, dating back to 1891, and known locally as “the old pool” or “Gamla Laugin.” It is at Hverahólmi, a geothermal area near Flúðir — the rich natural resources of warm water coming from natural hot springs. While I also visited the Blue Lagoon on the last day before leaving, I found it overly touristy and lacking in the natural hot spring experience that I had at the Secret Lagoon. I’d recommend the Secret Lagoon over the Blue Lagoon any day for an authentic and memorable Icelandic hot spring experience. And, to my pleasant surprise, I spotted elf houses near the pool!
Gljúfrabui waterfall, which means “Dweller in the Gorge,” is almost hidden by a cliff face, with only a tiny opening that gives access into the mossy cylindrical chamber where the waterfall carves into the rock. I slowly made my way inside and was struck by the stunning beauty of the hidden waterfall as it cascaded into a pool at the base of the cave. Due to the perpetual moisture, the cave wall is entirely covered in verdant vegetation. Absolutely gorgeous!
Seljalandsfoss (the Icelandic term for a waterfall is “foss”) is another stunning waterfall with an impressive drop of 196 ft! I took the unique opportunity to walk behind the waterfall to appreciate the breathtaking beauty stepping behind the water curtain!
“The chest of Þrasi is filled with treasures
located beneath Skógafoss waterfall,
the first man who goes there
will find great richness.”
Skógafoss is a stunning waterfall with an estimated height of around 200 feet. Skógafoss is associated with the arrival of the first Viking settler, Prasi Porolfsson, in Eystri-Skogar during the 900s. Prasi was a powerful sorcerer; after reaching Iceland, he buried a gold chest in a cave behind the thundering Skógafoss waterfall. Legend has it that during the 1600s, the sons of Ámundi Þormóðsson tried to locate the treasure chest. They managed to find it, but while one of the men held the golden handle ring, the chest broke free and fell into the depths of the waterfall. The church door of Skogar displayed this very ring, and it has now been moved to Skogar Museum.
The interpretive displays at Skogar Museum are amazing and highlight the unique characteristics of Iceland. The museum gives a genuine understanding of the simple and austere living circumstances — from the turf houses to the 20th Century. It has a vast collection of items on display, and I particularly enjoyed the outdoor exhibits showcasing sod houses, wooden farmhouses, a restored church, and schools. As a museum lover — I’d highly recommend spending around 2–3 hours here.
Reynisfjara, the famous black pebble beach, is just outside the small town of Vik. At the base of Reynisfjell Mountain, hexagonal basalt columns emerge from the sand, while the dramatic pillars called Reynisdrangar jut out from the rough North Atlantic Ocean along the coast. According to the Icelandic folk legend, when trolls are hit by the sunlight, they turn into stone. The 100 yrs old legendary story, The Three Trolls of Vik, goes — the trolls Skessudrangur, Laddrangur, and Langhammar were trying to capture a three-masted Viking ship. They were taking too long to reach the shore and were instantaneously turned to stone at the break of dawn. Even today, it is believed that the trolls’ wails and moans can be heard near the cliffs as they yearn for their mountain home.
“Once upon a time a farmer lived at Reynir, in Myrdalur valley, South Iceland. He was ordered by the bishop to raise a church by his farm-house, but lacked wood for its contruction. The haymaking season was upon him and there were no carpenters to help him. He feared that the church would not be constructed before onset of winter. One day he was wandering in his field with a heavy heart, when a man approached and offered to build the church for him. In exchange he had to guess his name before the construction was completed.…”
— The Church Builder, Icelandic Folk Legends by Alda Sigmundsdottir
When the work was nearing its final stages, the farmer became increasingly worried because he was not close to knowing the stranger’s name. One day he went for a stroll, lay on the grass, and fell asleep. He dreamt that a woman’s voice reciting :
“Soon will thy father Finnur come from Reynir,
Bringing a little playmate for thee, here.”
When he woke up, and ran to the church joyfully, where the stranger was just finishing the construction, and said, “Well done, friend Finnur! How soon you have finished your work!” As soon as he said that, the stranger dropped the plank from his hand, vanished, and was never seen again.
The story is also part of “Icelandic Legends Collected by Jón Árnason” as “Who built Reynir Church.”
Hvítserkur is on the eastern shore of the Vatnsnes peninsula. It is a basalt rock stack, almost 50ft high, resembling a dragon drinking water! According to legend, Hvítserkur is a petrified troll who once resided in Strandir, in the Westfjords region. The troll was set to destroy the bells at Þingeyraklaustur convent, as Icelandic trolls do not adhere to Christianity and are averse to churches and their bells. One day, the troll was exposed to the first rays of the sun, which resulted in its transformation into stone, as is the fate of trolls in Icelandic lore.
Dimmuborgir, also known as “the dark fortress” at Mývatn, is a marvel of nature. It has vast formations of lava rocks that would transport one to an alternate realm — one from fairytales and folklore. These exceptional lava pillars were formed around 2,300 years ago during the eruption of Lúdentarborgir and Þrengslaborgir craters. The rocks are fragile and brittle; therefore, they have been preserved, and climbing on them is not allowed to prevent damage.
The story goes, Grýla, a grim ogre, who eats ill-behaved children, and her cannibal husband, Leppalúði, live there with their thirteen children, Jólasveinarir- the Yule Lads. The Yule lads hibernate during the summer and emerge during Christmas to reward and punish children for good or bad behavior.
Lake Mývatn is Iceland’s 4th largest lake and was created in a basaltic lava eruption more than two thousand years ago. The lake has some mystical lava formations. Many small islets and skerries are found in this lake. According to folklore, Úlfhildur, the elf queen, argued with an elderly woman, who then cursed her and forced her to remain with humans until a human followed her to the elves’ realm on Christmas Eve. On that day, a farmworker followed the elf queen across a bridge over Lake Myvatn. He managed to take a golden ring as evidence of his visit. Úlfhildur was overjoyed that the curse had been lifted and that she could reunite with her husband, the elf king. As a sign of appreciation, she gave the farmworker two purses full of gold and silver and bestowed blessings on him for the rest of his life.
The walk to the lake is fascinating amongst these beautiful rootless craters or pseudocraters — Skútustaðagígar. These pseudocraters were formed some 2,300 years ago in the eruption of Lúdentaborgir and Þrengslaborgir. They are not formed by the actual explosion of volcanos. When water is trapped beneath flowing lava, it causes the water to boil and turn into steam. The buildup of steam pressure then leads to explosions, resulting in the formation of these clusters of pseudo craters.
Ásbyrgi (the Shelter of the Gods) is truly magical! No wonder the Huldufólk chose Ásbyrgi as their capital city, and some Icelanders have even reported seeing their homes, public buildings, and concert halls on the cliffs. It is a stunning green canyon, around 3.5 km long and 1 km wide, surrounded by high cliffs that resemble an amphitheater. Unlike other parts of Iceland, Asbyrgi is full of trees and is home to many fulmars, who screech away through the cliffs making the atmosphere even more fantastical. This was the only forest I encountered in Iceland. The legend says Óðinn, the almighty of Norse Mythology, circumnavigated the earth to look after his people. One day, Óðin, with his Sleipnir, an eight-legged horse, rode too close to the earth and ended up alighting at Iceland. That single hoofprint of Sleipnir is believed to have created a horse-shaped canyon. This enduring hoofprint then soon came to be known as Asbyrgi. Dettifoss was another gem in this area – breathtaking!
One of my favorite waterfalls, Goðafoss— the Waterfall of the Gods. The tale dates back to over a thousand years ago, during the time when Christianity was established as the official religion of Iceland. Þorgeir, a pagan priest or political figure, was asked to decide whether Iceland should continue to worship their native Gods or convert to Christianity. He chose the latter, and to symbolize his decision, he threw the idols of the Norse Gods into the waterfall, hence its name. The source of water for Goðafoss is Skjálfandafljót, the river which originates in the highlands of Iceland and flows through the Bárðardalur valley, an area with an ancient lava field. The waterfall’s surroundings bear witness to Iceland’s volcanic past — unusual basaltic rock formations with unique shapes and sizes.
Víðimýrarkirkja church is amidst a stunning panorama. Located at Skagafjörður in North Iceland, there is a legend connected to this turf church.
“Once upon a time, a troll lived in that cave, by the name of Móðólfur. The mountain is named after that troll. He delighted a woman from the region. The woman and the troll fell in love and the woman became pregnant. The foetus was so imposing that she couldn’t give birth to it and died during childbirth. Móðólfur the troll moved her body one night to the church at Víðimýri — in a skillfully made coffin. The coffin stood in front of the church door one morning and next to it was a ring made of copper and a coil with runic characters, explaining what had happened — the copper ring was a gift to the church serving as a burial fee. The body was buried at Víðimýrarkirkja church and the ring has since then been placed on the church door. It is said that Móðólfur went back to his cave and died of grief”
— The legend Móðólfur in Mt. Móðólfsfell, Icelandic Folk and Fairy Tales by Jon Arnason
This turf church was built in 1834, one of the last six turf churches in Iceland.
Condensing the ten-day trip events in one article will not do any justice to the experiences. But Jökulsárlón glacier at Vatnajökull National Park is definitely worth the mention. The lagoon is 656 feet deep and is Iceland’s deepest lake. The massive 1,000 years old icebergs floating in the lagoon are just their tips as 90 percent of the ice is below the waterline! The breathtaking landscape stirred my creativity to imagine the stories around it, even if it had no existing connection to folklore.
Iceland’s rich folklore adds an extra layer of depth and intrigue to its breathtaking natural landscape. Throughout my journey, I was delighted to see how the Icelanders continue to believe in the existence of Huldufólk and respect their role in the country’s tradition. This belief is just one example of the warmth and simplicity of the Icelandic people. The ten-day memories of this enchanting road trip would stay with me for years. This is one country I’d love to visit again.
Some recommended reads to know more about the Icelandic legends:
- Icelandic Folk and Fairy Tales by Jon Arnason
- Icelandic Legends Collected by Jón Árnason
- The Trolls in the Knolls: 35 Icelandic Folk and Fairy Tales by Jón Árnason
- Hildur, Queen of the Elves and Other Stories: Icelandic Folktales by J.M. Bedell
- Nordic Tales: Folktales from Norway, Sweden, Finland, Iceland, and Denmark
- Icelandic Folk Legends: Tales of apparitions, outlaws and things unseen by Alda Sigmundsdottir
- The Little Book of the Hidden People: Twenty stories of elves from Icelandic folklore by Alda Sigmundsdottir
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