The Town that Gives You a Soul Hug
A backpacker’s tale about one of Mexico’s magical towns
Only in Mexico can you find the so-called ‘Pueblos magicos’, magical towns. This concept was first coined in 2001 by the Mexican government. San Cristobal de las Casas is one of these magical towns and this is a story of how it became special to me.
This is the real Mexico, here you will find tradition and authenticity. Unlike touristy beach vacation destinations like Cancun and Tulum, where people go to enjoy the beach and their hotels, there is a lot of culture to discover and enjoy here. The picturesque architecture combined with mountains and indigenous flare gives it a unique but typically Mexican charm. This is the city that loves fireworks. Almost every day you hear them going off, whether it is to commemorate a saint, celebrate Independence Day, the legendary Día de los Muertos or just for the fun of it. An occasion is always found. Here you get to see the vibrant culture that mixes ancestral with modern, and you get to wonder at the crafts of the skillful Tzotzil and Tojolabal among others.
I came to San Cristobal a weary and socially exhausted backpacker. I had been on the road for eight months, going through South and Central America. Mexico was my last country and my insurance had expired just when I arrived in Cancun. I had spent almost all of my savings and had reached a point in my journey where I was too broke to keep travelling but not ready to go home either. I was stuck and desperately seeking answers to my existential crisis. I needed a purpose, a project and preferably free, or at least very cheap, accommodation. The city received me and gave me much-needed stability. I started working as a manager at a newly opened hostel owned by a local entrepreneur, Sergio, who would become a good friend. I ended up helping him build the hostel and its brand. We turned it into a new community for travellers. Together with his four dogs and guests eager to help out, we got it ready for high season and just in time for Día de Muertos. We became not only a community but a family. Casa Nova is now the place for crafty and creative travellers and digital nomads alike and is growing every day. Sergio explained his love for San Cris very soulfully one day.
This town has still kept everything as it was 40 years ago, I still remember running around here as a kid and everything is still as it was, we keep true to our roots. It has managed to keep its authenticity although tourism has grown since then. This is what Mexico is all about, and this is the magic town of all the magic towns. People here have a good pace, they don’t run, they know how to appreciate the mountains and the fresh air. This is why I chose to open my business here and create a community.
It was also here in San Cristobal that I experienced my first Temazcal — an ancient spiritual Mesoamerican tradition predating the Spanish conquest. There is a community in San Cristobal that organises the Temazcal every Saturday for only 200 pesos. It’s not a commercial tourist trap that foreigners often fall into, but an actual community of local shamans inviting everyone to participate in their tradition.
A Temazcal is a hot bath or something similar to a sauna. A provisional tent in a round shape is built and covered with rags, hot stones from the fire are placed in the middle. Before entering the tent participants are cleansed by tobacco and herbs and those with an injury or illness are given tobacco to keep in their navel for protection. Before entering the tent we kissed the ground and prayed to our ancestors. Inside, when the entrance is shut close it becomes pitch black and everyone is huddled together tightly with almost no space to move. When the ritual begins and the stones are brought in, the shamans start singing. The experience is unforgettable. It’s very intense and challenging but highly kathartic. After this, we all jumped into the nearby river. We were gifted with a pink sunset that night.
If you’re travelling in Mexico and looking to explore a vibrant culture, and happen to have travel fatigue — San Cristobal can be a perfect place for you. You get to enjoy small coffee shops that offer delicious and sustainable coffee by supporting small local farmers, hang out with local artists and wonder at the artisanal crafts of the indigenous.
There is a Mexican ancestral expression — apapachar. It’s a verb of Aztec origin used to describe a special kind of hug — a hug for the soul. I heard it the first time from Sergio and was amazed by the fact that such a word exists. I had come to the right place. The town offered me a family, a purpose and a soul hug.
