Travelling through a Winter Wonderland — Austria
Country Snapshot#4: Austria
First Visited: February 2023
Times Visited: 1 (5 days)
Cities/Towns Visited: Salzburg, Hallstatt, Linz, Vienna
Nestled between my brief Munich adventure and my initial Eastern European escapade, Austria was an absolute delight. Allowing me to expand my growing love of art, the land of Mozart and the Sound of Music had its fair share of highlights.
CITY SNAPSHOTS:
SALZBURG
Kicking off my Austrian adventure was Salzburg. Whilst relatively small in stature, the nation's 4th biggest city packed a punch.
Arriving via bus with my sister battling a cold, the exploring got off to a slow start. But once we got started, we simply couldn’t stop.
Equipped with our cold weather gear, braving the sub-zero conditions, we set off for the city’s Altstadt, a neat 20-minute walk from our hostel. Along the way, we refuelled at a bakery. Having been inside for far too long, and wanting a long night, I needed to keep my sister’s energy levels at a high. A couple of rolls and pastries later, and we were right in the thick of things as the sun went down.
With its small streets, posh retailers and Christmas adornments, the Salzburger Altstadt was reminiscent of a Disney fairytale. Similarly, you could mistake it for being the scene of a Hollywood rom-com. As we passed by bauble, upon bauble, upon bauble, I thought of my mum. She would have had a field day here.
If the rom-com vision wasn’t already imprinted in your mind, a love-lock bridge would surely make the picture clearer. Salzburg was like that one girl who knew everyone in high school had a crush on her. She knew she was beautiful, and she owned it.
Salzburg also knew she could make a killing advertising Mozart. If you didn’t know where Mozart was born after a trip to the city, you clearly hadn’t visited Salzburg. Mozart statue, street, plaza, memorial, whatever, Salzburg had it.
Our 2nd day kicked off similarly — we stopped for a snack on the way to the city. Although it could’ve been better…
You know those really annoying people who base their trips off suggestions on TikTok? Well, that’s my sister. She called for snack time at a TikTok-recommended cafe. Although I’ll admit, this suggestion was pretty bloody good.
Munching on our café delights by a bench at the Mirabell Gardens, we took in the sights of its famed Palace. The site of the famous Do-Re-Mi scene in the Sound of Music, it was another reminder of the enchanting nature of this place. I’m honestly surprised more films haven’t been filmed here.
After that visit, the city’s crowning jewel was next on the menu. Sitting atop a hill, overlooking the vast surrounds of the town, the Hohensalzburg Fortress was truly a sight to behold. As was the bizarre yet fascinating marching procession in the city centre. With thousands of people equipped with what I can only describe as folk gear and royal attire, spearheaded by a central figure with a distinctive flag, it was one of the strangest experiences of my European journey. In saying that, it was arguably the most memorable.
After coming to grips with what we had just witnessed, we began our ascent of the castle. After paying our dues and entering the castle’s wall, we were immediately blown away. This was a place of significant magnitude.
As the largest fully-preserved castle in Central Europe, it certainly took the breath away. With sweeping views of the city, and an extensive self-guided exhibit showcasing the riches of the Hapsburg dynasty, it was a great experience. Although my enjoyment probably wasn’t mirrored by my sister…
I decided I was going to take a super long time reading the info cards and turn my sister's experience into a real-life game of Where’s Wally. She was understandably frustrated, and I don’t blame her. With that move, there’s enough evidence to suggest that me, exhibits and unwell people aren’t a good mix.
Following what must have been 50 pictures and several hours later, we were all castled out. As day turned to night, I decided I’d enjoy a feast of my own. My poison? What I can only describe as an Austrian hot dog, a Bosna at the ever-popular Balkan Grill Walter. For my fellow Aussies, I’m sad to report that it was better than a Bunnings snag.
Although we stayed another night in the city, that was about all she wrote for Salzburg. An enchanting place full of history — especially in the form of art, it’s definitely worth visiting. As I hit the hay and recharged, little did I know I’d be heading to an even bigger Disney fairytale the next day.
HALLSTATT
If I have my sources right, Hallstatt was the inspiration behind Disney’s Frozen. I think that alone tells you all you need to know about the outstanding beauty of the place.
Despite a misunderstanding with our German train communicator, after an hour-long train ride and one of the most beautiful 30-minute walks I’ve ever embarked on, we were in Hallstatt.
Integral to the Hapsburg dynasty’s wealth as a hub of salt mining, the tiny town is not reminiscent of any other mining town I’ve laid my eyes on. With a spectacularly clear lake paving the way for a petit town centre, shaded by a snowcapped mountain, it certainly dazzles. There are not enough words to describe it.
Taking in the lake during our walk into town, and with a brisk sightseeing tour complete, we embarked on a hike up the mountain. Although that probably wasn’t the best decision. With a thin path covered in ice and snow and with no rail to speak of, it was like walking on banana peels. It certainly got my heart racing!
Yet the risk of falling to our destiny instantly gave way to sheer jubilation as we summitted the mountain. With skiing slopes, a restaurant, and plenty of other attractions up there, it was well worth the climb. Eager to save the memory, we captured some breathtaking photos atop the Panoramic Viewpoint.
Snapping our photos and taking in the scintillating surroundings, we headed back down the treacherous path. Sure it was dangerous, but I had the time of my life.
It was a free slip-and-slide that presented the perfect opportunity to ditch snowballs at my sister, against an otherworldly view. What wasn’t to love? Honestly, that hike was more rewarding than the panoramic viewpoint itself.
Upon reaching the bottom, and having viewed all the mini town had to offer, we were back on our way to Salzburg. For all the beauty of Hallstatt, it offers little else for the general tourist. There’s not a whole heap of time that you can spend at the place. Then again, I guess no place can be perfect…
And perfect Hallstatt is not. The town’s increased popularity and growing tourism scene have caused uproar amongst the local community. Not long after our visit, a famous photo spot, located on an elevated road bend above the town had been blocked. It represents the destructive and increasingly unsustainable nature of tourism.
So please, if you go to Hallstatt, enjoy its beauty. But be extremely sensitive and respectful while maintaining the peace and beauty of this dreamy town.
LINZ
Almost 12 hours after not knowing its existence, we were in Austria’s 3rd largest city.
A transit stop on the way between Salzburg and Vienna, Linz has no right to be on this list. Yet an unforgettable meal, a rip-off sim card and one of the more impressive cathedrals puts it on the map.
With 7 hours to burn before an onward journey to Vienna, we set off to finally get me a SIM card. Sorting that out relatively quickly in a Three Mobile store (with some super helpful staff), it lasted for less than 24 hours. My justification for not wanting one was warranted. Boy were we off to a great start!
To add further salt to the wound, it was freezing. Eager to avoid frostbite, we found refuge in a Church. Finding ourselves alone in its expansive, warm interior, we took our time to take in its majesty. It was one of many stunning cathedrals (like the Mariendom and Alter Dom) that line the city.
The rest of our day was nothing to write home about — except for 1 establishment.
It seems our earlier church visit had paid off — the Food Gods had given us an absolute gem.
As tourists in a low-volume tourist city, we were treated like kings. We had our own chef and waiter. And they didn’t just have incredible service.
As a lover of food, especially of the Greek variety, (which I enjoyed multiple times in Greece) nothing compares to that restaurant. The sumptuous gyros, with the mountain of chips and crepe desert delight, (costing a combined 9 euros) remain unmatched.
Linz will forever remain in the memory for that meal alone. It was that GReat, I’d go to that freezing city again just to eat it.
VIENNA
For all its beauty and grandeur, my time in Vienna was limited. After only managing to catch a Champions League belter between Real Madrid and PSG on our first night, we were up bright and early to make the most of our precious Wien time.
Our first stop was none other than Austria’s famous Schonbrunn Palace. Yet another reminder of the opulence of the Hapsburg dynasty, the Palace and its beautiful grounds, once a summer residence was now tourist central.
Lucky for us, the early bird catches the worm. With a brisk walk from our hostel, we were at the Palace right on opening time.
Admiring the stunning architecture and the expansiveness of the Palace grounds, we spent most of our time on the exterior. I practised proclaiming to the non-existent masses on the Palace’s overhanging balcony. I was putting on an act so good that I even had the staff fooled. Somehow I had made my way into a private room. Realising my mistake, I promptly escaped through an exit door to avoid trouble.
Eager not to cause more mayhem, my sister and I kept to the exterior of the palace. We took in the gardens, despite their diminished Winter beauty. The snow and cold had wreaked havoc on the place, and the usual green gardens were looking dead and frozen. It didn’t seem to faze the production of a TV Show, as a film crew and actors went about their business in a cordoned-off area of the Palace. It was pretty cool to witness, as was the excellent city view I got after running like a madman up a zig-zag path on one of the gardens’ hills.
Following our royal excursion, it was back to our Hostel to have breakfast and check out of our room. The order of the day? An IKEA store right below our hostel. My sister was having the time of her life and she chowed down on her Daim Cake and her other pastries. I wasn’t all that up to eating, as a cold I’d battle with later that day began to take over.
With breakfast sorted, we were headed into the city. As one of the world’s major art capitals, our eyes feasted on the mind-blowing architecture that lined the Ringstrasse. Among the culprits were the State Opera Building, the Hofburg and the National Library and Parliament.
My personal favourite, a little further along the ‘ring road’ was the beautiful Rathausplatz. With a skiing ring framed by a magnificent cathedral, it felt like a Winter paradise. Yet somehow things were going to get more lavish as we approached the Innere Stadt.
Walking the ritzy Kohlmarkt (an iconic street boasting stores of all the top labels), the grand opulence of this place began to sink in. Vienna is right up there with the poshest places I have ever visited. I cannot state how grand, opulent and extravagant everything felt. Although not my cup of tea, I couldn’t help but find myself captivated by the historic beauty that surrounded me.
With a visit to St Stephen’s Cathedral, and a stroll through the Naschmarkt to finish off, my Wien journey was coming to an end. It certainly wasn’t my favourite city, but its ‘ritzyness’ and incredible art scene are worth exploring at least once in your life.
And just like that, my time in Austria was all over. What an action-packed 5 days it had been!
REVIEW
From the peaceful, snowcapped mountains of Hallstatt to the lavish city life of Vienna, Austria has something for everyone. It combines the best of Switzerland (its beautiful mountains) with the best of Germany (its vibrant culture) at a lower price tag. So whether you’re an art connoisseur, a budding skier or your average traveller, consider Austria the answer to your travel prayers.
Hi, my name is James Johnson and I’m on a lifelong journey to visit every country in the world. Fueled by a passion to better understand the world and the many diverse cultures, religions, and people within it, I’m seeking to visit all 206 Olympic Nations. I’m currently 25 down. Feel free to follow or support my journey by following me here on Medium, and elsewhere on Instagram and YouTube. Maybe I’ll catch you on the road. See you on the flip side!
