Travelling to the City of Nizams — Hyderabad
A model city for fostering diversity.
It’s not every day you come across a free holiday. So, when we were given the chance to attend a friend’s wedding in Hyderabad — I grabbed my tickets a little too fast.
The weather would be perfect in February. Hyderabad has scorching summers which is perhaps one of the few drawbacks of the city.
Having traveled to the south of India for our honeymoon, I experienced hostility towards Northerners. And so, I was prepared.
But I was pleasantly surprised.
Hyderabad is a melting pot of religions, cultures, and languages. It is the capital of the state of Telangana and is the fourth most populated metro city in India.
While the majority of the population is Hindu, the cultural heritage of the city is rich, and being effectively passed down the generations due to its diverse Muslim community.
The Mughals annexed the city in the 16th century. So, the Muslim population comprises descendants of Hadhrami Arabs, Abyssinians, Turks, Pathans, Iranians, and many more communities.
Previously known as the City of Nizams (Mughal Era Kings), it boasts of a rich Islamic heritage which is visible in the tapestry of many old buildings as well.
Although the Char Minar is what the city’s name brings to mind — it is the bazaar on all four gates of the monument that is the marvel.
One must only step into the diameter of the Char Minar to feel the magic in the air. I imagine it's what pre-partition India looked like.
Muslim-capped people sauteing chicken biryani in the open? Hindu bangle sellers sitting around enjoying a cuppa with their Sikh mate? A temple sitting unperturbed alongside a pre-historic mosque?
Am I dreaming?
My daydream was broken by the infamous attar-sellers (perfume-sellers) around the monument. One of the remnants of the Mughals was their love for plant-derived fragrances.
Now in the 21st century, the Mughals would roll in their graves if they knew these scents were labeled “Kylie”, “Rihanna” or “Beckham”.
But that’s what time does. Like a grandparent, it gives you old timeless pieces in new packaging.
How can we miss out on the delicacies this unique city has to offer?
While Chicken/ Mutton Biryani is what most people know the city for, being a vegetarian I couldn’t venture in that direction.
However, the influence of the neighboring Southern states like Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh meant delectable vegetarian dishes for people like me.
For those familiar with South Indian food, what comes to mind are Idli (steamed rice flour balls), Sambhar (a vegetable soup Idli is dipped in), and Vada (fried balls of lentil flour).
Rather, the chefs are experimenting with so much more. Take for instance this restaurant Chutneys. They offer six different chutneys with every meal.
Each one is better than the last.
Shaghous is famous for its shawarma and Biryani while Shadab is also another popular eatery for Biryani around the Charminar.
Biryani is flavored rice that is slow-cooked with meat in an earthen clay pot for several hours. The result could be likened to Ambrosia.
Named after the seventh Nizam, Osmania biscuits have become a trademark of the city. While Karachi Bakery is well-known for these, I found Cafe Niloufer’s Osmania Biscuits to be a delight. Crispy on the outside, you don’t expect the biscuit to melt in your mouth as it does.
Also, Niloufer’s Bun Maska was unlike any other I had tasted. Usually, a bun maska is a small burger bun toasted on a hot pan with butter and salt. Niloufer’s addition of powdered sugar and cream gave the bun a distinct flavor I ended up liking.
The next stop was saree shopping. A saree is a nine-yard-long piece of beautiful fabric that Indian women drape over their bodies. It is accompanied by a matching blouse.
Silk sarees of the South of India are well-known for their intricate threadwork. So I decided to pick up a few during my time there.
And I was shook by the variety.
Each saree store was at least half the size of Ikea. Sarees were lined according to the price range. Customers could pick and shop as they would at a supermarket.
This is a video of the shop I visited. Trust me when I say it’s gleaming.
I went hysterical just looking at the prices, which made me realize they are practically looting us in the North.
Despite the jaw-dropping prices I went over my budget, trying to get my hands on every beautiful piece. Finally, I had to be dragged out by my friends before I spent my flight ticket money.
Hyderabad left me wanting more.
The friendly taxi drivers with their anecdotes, the fragrance of biryani in every lane, and the softness of an Osmania biscuit are something all tourists can look forward to.
