Witnessing Milky Way with the Naked Eye: A South Asian Gem
On my trip to South Asia last year, I received multiple recommendations to go to the northern areas of Pakistan or India, in the Himalayas, to see some of nature’s most magnificent sights. Addicted to the mountains, I immediately added Gilgit-Baltistan to my itinerary as I had heard great things about the hospitability of that region. Hunza, one of the most popular valleys in that destination, was where I decided to start my trip.
From Pakistan’s capital city, Islamabad, Hunza is about a 15-hour drive, which we split into two parts by stopping midway in the small town of Besham, at Besham Hilton Hotel. The stay was fair for the price we paid and the next day, we moved on to our main destination, the Luxus Hunza Lake Resort.
This resort is situated on top of the famed Attabad Lake and has a mesmerizing view from its most popular suite, the Presidential Suite. Choosing to stay in one of these waterfront rooms, we woke up to a magical sight every morning. Not only could we see the stretch of the clear blue water, but also the mountains that surrounded it on either side, creating a beautiful water valley in front of us.
For three days, we soaked in the beauty of this charming valley. Taking full advantage of the spring weather, we took to the outdoors. Jet-skiing and boat rides were a daily must, and a cup of tea by the rocks at the Lake was enjoyed every evening. We also went out exploring the more urban part of the valley, which boasts a host of castles, outdoor markets, and popular viewpoints.
The one thing that made this place really stand out to me from everywhere else I’ve been to, was the charm of the people that lived there. Each one had an intriguing story but the respect and graciousness that they showed visitors was incomparable to anything else I’ve experienced. Showering outsiders with hospitality, they make Hunza a place from which you never want to leave. With a strong sense of community, everyone seems to know everyone, and where one person cannot help, he calls another he knows would be able to. Because of this, we were able to spend some really hassle-free and relaxing days in the valley, with locals guiding us to the best places to visit.
One such suggestion was another lake resort, an hour's drive north of the valley, called Borith Lake Resort. This family-owned, cottage-style hotel was less expensive than the Luxus Resort, but provided a similar view of the Borith Lake, on top of which it was situated.
While the two resorts provided comparable views, Borith had another level of serenity and calmness to it. Since it was less popular and the way leading up to it was less accessible by smaller vehicles, it did not have a lot of traffic, and the natural area remained mostly untouched. The two brothers who were running the show would also cook our meals, according to our choices, since our family was the only one there for the first two days. They were also, like everyone we had met in this region, extremely kind and likable, available to help with anything we needed throughout our stay.
However, my most prized memory of this trip came at night, when the lights went out and it was only me, my phone, and the stars left awake. Every night I stayed in Hunza, I would spend the early hours, once everyone had gone to bed, to stargaze, because I rarely saw stars in the city. On my second night in Borith, though, something magical happened. I saw the Milky Way for the first time, with my bare eyes.
While I ran to capture this moment on my phone, it didn’t even come close to the sight right in front of my eyes. That night, I spent 3 hours just lying on the grass and staring at this wonder in front of me. As a city girl, I’ve always had a great longing to witness the miracles of the galaxy and this was my first one. Overjoyed, I also woke up a couple of my friends and family members to see this beautiful scene with me. But, safe to say, you had to be there!
After four nights in this resort, we headed for a day trip to the Khunjerab Pass, witnessing the snow-laden border between Pakistan and China, before deciding to make the trip back to the capital. All in all, this little side trip will always be one of my most special traveling memories and, whenever you get the chance, I would insist that you witness this same magic that I did last year.
