Seagrass, Joe Whalen

Reimagining Clothing with NUBU

Eve Hartwell
Digital Shroud
Published in
5 min readMay 7, 2021

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What is your go-to fashion brand? H&M, Zara, Urban Outfitters, Topshop, maybe Uniqlo? These brands are affordable, trendy, and unfortunately, they are a huge contributor to the decimation of our environment. Fast-fashion not only promotes the exploitation of impoverished countries through cheap labor but it manufactures low-quality clothing for little cost in the name of replicating high-fashion trends. These poorly constructed products consume large amounts of water and release about 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gases into our atmosphere every year. This clothing is so inadequately made that it is easily expendable. Each year, 92 million tons of textile waste is formed and taken to landfills. The issues intensified by fast-fashion affect our global economy, our environment, and the way we consume. This is clearly an all-encompassing concern in the fashion industry nevertheless, the most impactful area remains within the threads.

Clothing tends to wear out over time and popular trends rarely survive a full season. Thankfully, people in the fashion industry are finding ways to promote sustainability and eco-friendly clothing through processing and dyeing techniques and creating better fabrics. An efficient material tends to rely on renewability which means that it is made of natural and replenishable resources. This ensures energy security and fuel diversity while conserving organic matter. Biodegradability is another important factor so the material can be broken down to reduce waste significantly. It should also be durable to ensure the longevity of the clothing and overall value.

I propose a unique fabric that utilizes renewable, biodegradable, and durable materials that will cut down on energy, water, and chemical waste. This smart fabric is called NUBU, named after its renewable qualities and bamboo composition. The fabric molds lyocell fibers, bamboo, and algae to create a soft and lightweight cotton feel. Lyocell is a powerful natural man-made material made from cellulose fiber, wood pulp, and nanotechnology. It is durable, anti-bacterial, soft, and absorbent. The beauty of this material is that it is flexible so it can be produced with several types of wood pulp. The pulp of bamboo is utilized because it grows abundantly, consumes little water, is anti-bacterial and hypoallergenic. The secret weapon of this fabric is the incorporation of eco-friendly algae which helps regulate carbon emissions while allowing the garment to be biodegradable. Algae technology has been a breakthrough discovery in the textile industry because it has photosynthesizing qualities that allow carbon dioxide to be converted to oxygen. Not only can this fabric be composted after use, but its natural properties will encourage sustainability. NUBU guarantees the reduction of our environmental footprint.

The first Living and Photosynthetic textile, UBC

The vision of this smart fabric is based on biogarmentry. This is a developing concept that reimagines the way we view clothing by using live textiles to emphasize the importance of caring for our garments. The live algae enables the fabric to behave very similarly to a houseplant because the user must care for it with sunlight and water. The idea is to develop a closer attachment to clothing. As a result, users will have a deeper appreciation for their purchase and they will have the power to control how long it lasts or how it is recycled. Dealing with waste is challenging in the fashion industry but reframing the subject can make it more bearable. The truth is that we have a disposable clothing culture that worsens the ongoing climate crisis. When we allow the glamorization and exclusivity of fashion, we devalue the clothes we own and strive for unsustainable standards of style and shopping habits. Moreover, people view the damage done to our environment as a distant problem for other people to handle. We must adopt a more humanistic approach to understand and empathize with the world we inhabit. If we cannot accomplish that on a large scale, we must tackle it in an intimate manner. Instead of valuing the next upcoming trend, let's value the life of each personal clothing piece.

Seaweed in the bay, Caleb Kastein

Fabrication is not the only problem here. Production is also a critical concern for the environment and there are several smart methods to go about it. For example, bamboo can be a challenge due to its stiffness and rigidity so converting it to a soft rayon fabric can result in toxic chemical byproducts. However, the process of producing lyocell is considerably more efficient and less wasteful. It uses a closed-loop system to regulate tasks without human interaction. Seaweed algae are easily incorporated into the lyocell threads when dried and grounded up. Not to mention, there are possible uses of microalgae. This process avoids the use of toxic carbon disulfide that is often found in the rayon process. As a result, the chemical solutions are recaptured and reused while the remaining emissions are broken down.

Unfortunately, processing lyocell can be very expensive which means it will drive up retail costs. This makes it very hard to compete with fast-fashion prices. Accessibility is a balancing act in ubicomp so we must be conscious of how quality and value corresponds with user expectations. Moreover, the hands-on vision may also turn away customers. This technology does require some plant care however, not everyone has a green thumb. It is understandable that many people may want to chuck their favorite shirt in the dryer and expect it to last at least a year. The same way someone may not want to invest in an expensive yet fragile orchid, may not want to be responsible for the quality of an article of clothing. After all, technology should be about improving people's lives, not distracting them from it.

Sustainability does come at the cost of affordability so people will have to be willing to consider that sacrifice to protect our planet. Diminishing our carbon footprint, resource waste, environmental contamination, and microplastic pollution are all absolutely vital steps to creating a clean and more efficient world. The personal approach to this technology may be a huge appeal for consumers and may add a unique story to their wardrobe. NUBU opens up the discussion about how we can reinvent the way we view disposable products. The future of fashion must be sold, cared for, and recycled.

Inspiration:

C-FIBER

TENCEL

Biogarmentry by Roya Aghighi

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