Travel in Taiwan
Alishan in 3, 2, 1
Are you looking for a thorough guide on what you can expect from your trip to the indigenous mountain township in Chiayi County?
‘One, two, three, come to Taiwan, Taiwan has got Alishan!’ goes the famous rhyme. The mountainous forest township, Known for cherry blossoms, oolong tea, and beautiful views, is one of Taiwan’s most visited locations.
Here’s a comprehensive guide on getting the most out of your trip to Alishan:
Getting to Alishan
If you plan to catch a sunrise view, arrive on the previous day. Most visitors come to Alishan via the city of Chiayi, which is conveniently accessible from most major cities on the west coast via the high speed rail (HSR). Assuming you don’t have a car, there are two options to get from Chiayi to Alishan:
First the Alishan Forest Railway. Take a train to Fenqihu, or the “Jiufen of the South;” a mountain town boasting an Old Street and delicious bento lunch boxes. Another bus can take you the rest of the way. This option takes 5 or 6 hours, depending on how long you stay in Fenqihu, but the mountain views and bamboo groves along the way are worth it. Book tickets in advance!
You can also reach the area by bus. The bus accepts Easy Cards and takes about two hours. Some buses stop at Fenqihu if you want to get off, explore, and then get back on the next one.
The last bus from Chiayi departs at 14:00, and the train only runs at 9:00 and 9:30, so get to Chiayi extra early, or arrive the previous day and explore the city. Click here for detailed information about schedules.
What to Bring
Alishan receives over 200 days of rainfall per year. Keep an eye on the forecast but know that clear skies are never guaranteed. Don’t let a drizzle or fog stop you from enjoying the scenery, and use good judgment: hiking in a storm is no fun, not to mention unsafe.
Remember to pack rain gear: a rain jacket or umbrella, shoes with good grip, and warm clothes — especially in colder months. Temperatures stay between 10–20℃ (50–65℉) even in summer. Ponchos are sold at 7/11 across from the Alishan Train Station in case you are like me and forget to bring the abovementioned items.
Watching the Sunrise
The best spot to see the sunrise is Zhushan Platform, about an hour’s hike from the lodging area, a 30-minute train ride, and a 15-minute walk. Many hotels also offer shuttle rides up.
All three options require an early wake-up call; buy your train tickets the day prior (you will walk past the station on your way into town) and ask your hotel for the departure time — it changes based on the sunrise and is announced around 4:30 p.m.
The train also goes back down about an hour after sunrise. The hike is not very difficult, although the second half has many stairs. The trail is maintained and well-lit even in the dark.
Feel free to bring along an extra flashlight just in case. If you happen to be at Alishan on a cloudy day and miss the sunrise, don’t be in a rush to leave.
Instead, a 5-minute walk past the observation platform will bring you to Mountain Ali Tea №35, a tea house where you can sample locally grown oolong tea which President Tsai Ying-wen sends as a gift to other leaders.
If you’re lucky, the fog will have cleared when you return to the viewing platform (as will the crowd), and you’ll have a great view of Yushan (Jade Mountain) just across the valley.
If you are interested in hiking Taiwan’s highest peak, a 30-minute bus can take you to Yushan from the Alishan Transfer Station (note that the hike requires extensive planning and reservations).
Hiking
Check out AllTrails for routes that range from kid-friendly boardwalks to hilly out-and-backs for more experienced hikers.
The most popular is the Forest Park loop, which brings you past giant trees, ponds, and cherry blossoms if you visit in the spring. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife!
Getting Home
Buses run from Alishan back to Chiayi frequently — check if your bus is heading to the Chiayi HSR station or the Chiayi Train Station (where the Forest Railway starts) — they are not the same!
Happy trails!
