Hana in Taiwan

An American at Huaxi Street Night Market in Taiwan

My study abroad program director warned us not to be surprised to see the city ‘eerily quiet’ — few people are going out as COVID cases rose and Taiwan transitioned to living with the virus

The entrance to Huaxi Street Night Market. (Courtesy of Hana Bredstein)

I found the opposite true while exploring Huaxi Street Night Market in Wanhua District. Admittedly, the entrance was strangely empty for a Friday night — empty enough that scooters could wind their way through alleyways that would generally be too crowded.

Still, I could see plenty of people getting massages and haircuts behind the windows of salons, and even more pedestrians appeared once I arrived at the food stalls.

Empty tables outside of a closed restaurant. (Courtesy of Hana Bredstein)

I meandered past peanut shaving and cilantro ice cream rolls, all manner of cuts of pork that I didn’t dare to try, stinky tofu, fried dough cakes, fruit and seafood.

Everyone wore masks, and the vendors wore gloves, but people seemed carefree and relaxed. Perhaps they realize that it’s become impossible to eliminate all chances of getting sick and are willing to take the risk if it means returning to a long-standing tradition.

After all, night markets have been around China since the Tang dynasty, which often controlled their expansion due to strict economic regulations.

Dessert first — I started the night with fried Oreos, a staple at US fairs and amusement parks. (Courtesy of Hana Bredstein)

The winner of the night was the watermelon.

A small cup from a juice stand was the perfect palate-cleanser between different snacks, and watermelon-flavored soju paired well with stir-fried eel noodles.

The runner-up: a snake restaurant with a live python slithering in a glass case outside. Trying snake meat will have to wait until next time, though.

A behind the scenes look as vendors prepare food. Everyone I spoke to was incredibly patient with my lack of fluency. (Courtesy of Hana Bredstein)

A live snake in a display case outside of a restaurant. (Courtesy of Hana Bredstein)

While I hope Taipei’s residents will get a chance to safely enjoy the city’s nightlife soon, as a tourist, it is easier to navigate an unfamiliar situation with fewer people and noise around.

However, the city is far from deserted. Today’s night markets are a perfect place to practice speaking and listening through spontaneous interactions without being overwhelmed by the jostling crowd, not to mention trying new and exciting foods.

Fresh watermelon juice. (Courtesy of Hana Bredstein)