It’s time to start smoking again
From classic smoked salmon to hot smoked ice cream, smoked food has come a long way. And now, with the help of Welsh chefs Scott Davis and Jen Goss, you can have a go at home…
There is a common misconception that smoking food is an out-of-reach endeavour. So let’s get this clear: the process is simple. But, be warned! It’s not going to be perfect the first time. It’s an experiment. The good news is you don’t even need to leave your house to start.
There is something wonderful about smoking your own food. Done well, home smoked ingredients can add a new dimension to even quite simple dishes; layers of smoke deepen the flavour and create a rich taste that stimulates the senses. But it requires a delicate balance. Too much smoke can completely ruin the dish. It will taste acrid and bitter — like burnt toast, only worse.
The origins of smoking
Smoking food dates back thousands of years. Ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans used it as a preserving method to extend the shelf life and enhance the flavour of meat, fish and other perishable foods. Smoking food evolved in different cultures and countries: in China, they smoked over rice and tea in a wok, and in America they would smoke over burning corn cobs. The practice declined with the introduction of fridges and chemical preservatives in the 20th century.
These days it’s more about taste than necessity. But flavour aside, there are other benefits to smoking food.
Why smoke?
One of the best things about smoking your own food is that you no longer need to buy smoked food products because you know you can make it yourself, exactly how you like it, for a fraction of the price. Smoking food at home will always be better quality than anything you’re going to buy in the supermarket. Sadly some cheaper smoked products haven’t been near a smoker; it’s just chemicals creating the smoked flavour.
Smoking food allows you to turn the vegetable into the main event, which, in a world where many of us are eating less meat, is exciting. When thinking about smoked foods, smoked salmon or bacon often come to mind, so vegetarians or vegans might not think it’s for them. But there is a lot you can do with a sweetheart cabbage and a baking sheet on your stove, and a smoked carrot canapé at a party!
The difference between hot and cold smoking
There are two ways to smoke food: hot and cold.
Hot smoking is when you expose food to smoke and heat simultaneously in a controlled environment, so it both cooks and smokes the food. Hot smoking uses temperatures ranging from 82°C to 90°C (180°F to 194°F) to allow the food to absorb the smoky flavours while it is being cooked. It is typically a quicker process than cold smoking. Before you smoke meat and fish you need to brine it and generally, we would use a wet brine before hot smoking.
Cold smoking is a food preservation and flavouring method where food is exposed to smoke without heat. Unlike hot smoking, which cooks the food as it smokes, cold smoking occurs at temperatures between 10°C and 25°C (50°F and 77°F) which allows the food to absorb the smoky flavours without being cooked. The temperature is in the danger zone for bacteria to multiply, so only cured or brined products should be cold smoked. This is not the case for vegetables, fruit, dairy and nuts because they are not high-risk foods. Cold smoking is typically a longer process and is used for fish, vegetables, cheese, cream, butter and certain meats. You can expect to cold smoke dairy and vegetables for 2–4 hours and fish and meat for 12–48 hours.
Types of wood
There are many different types of wood you can use to smoke food. The amount of time that the wood smokes for is important, but the all-important flavours are up to you. The following will provide you with a good place to start:
— Oak is the most popular wood for smoking. It generates a moderate and steady smoke, ideal for lengthy sessions. It has a medium-strong smoky flavour that works well with just about any type of meat.
— Beech offers a mild, consistent smoke, suitable for longer smoking sessions. It has a subtle and slightly nutty flavour, which pairs with meat and fish without overpowering the food.
— Apple releases a mild and fruity smoke over a moderate duration. It adds a delicate sweetness to smoked food, complementing poultry, pork and fish.
— Maple produces a mild, gentle smoke over a moderate duration. It has a sweet, slightly smoky flavour with hints of caramel, best for poultry, pork and vegetables.
— Cherry generates a sweet smoke for a moderate duration. It infuses poultry, pork and game with a sweet and fruity flavour that adds a slightly tangy dimension to the dish.
— Hickory produces a strong, bold smoke relatively quickly, ideal for shorter sessions. It carries the classic flavour that most people associate with bacon and is well suited to pork, ribs, bacon and poultry.
Scott Davis trained and worked at Michelin starred restaurants in New York and London under renowned chefs such as Marco Pierre White, Nobu Maksuhisa, Gordon Ramsay, Gary Rhodes and Jean-Georges in New York. He first ‘smoked’ under the arches at London’s Mirabelle restaurant; the spark that ignited his lifelong passion for smoked foods. He explored artisan smokeries across the UK before returning to Wales where he set up a food company specialising in smoked products. He now runs a bespoke catering company.
Jen Goss lives on a smallholding in Wales, following a lifelong dream to live by the sea and work the land. Her produce provides ample supplies for Our Two Acres — the catering company she set up after a career in the hospitality industry in London. Each year she runs the kitchen at The DO Lectures, cooking delicious organic meals for the 150+ attendees and speakers. In 2016 she co-authored Do Preserve with Anja Dunk and Mimi Beaven.
Extract from Do Smoke: A modern guide to cooking and curing. by Jen Goss & Scott Davis. Copyright © 2024 by Jen Goss & Scott Davis. Published by The Do Book Co.
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