Travels with my blind aunt — Fourth Week, China Special
A travel journal from illustrator Toby Melville-Brown on his two month journey around the world with his blind aunt.
After my brief pit stop in London and Sussex to see friends and family, it was time to rejoin my aunt Penny for the second leg of her Baking Blind World Tour, in Chongqing. Pronounced Ching-Ching (yeah, it’s a typically metropolis in the south west area of China.) Like most, I hadn’t heard about it before, and was ready for fields of concrete and cranes, channels of dirt and dust punctuated by sterile shopping malls. I wasn’t wrong but my goodness it was beautiful. As an illustrator fascinated with the built landscape, I’ve never been somewhere more inspiring. If you’re able to go, go now!
Chongqing is a city in the grip of massive change. China’s endless thirst for construction is replacing the old in a bid to house the millions moving into the city - a new middle class, brimming with pride. The result is a genuinely startling mix of old and new, one swiftly being replaced by the other. This is a place that is rejoicing in development (at night the city’s cranes are decorated with neon lights, like beacons of change) — though I did notice a slight mourning for the rapidly displaced past. In a rare traditional workers tea house, much like our greasy spoon, Chinese millennials would flock, only to snap pics of old men playing chess and smoking fags; living relics in a new land.
In addition to all the cool buildings I met some people. I joke. I met some truly decent folks and the visit wouldn’t have been nearly as enjoyable without them. We stayed at The Intercontinental Hotel, and the staff were an absolute hoot. Especially Sam, who was endlessly charming and said I was a great guy. Then Charlie, whose cliffside backpackers hostel on the banks of the Yangtze River was flippin’ magical. Finally and most special was Julia. Mine and Penny’s guide and chief translator for the week, tirelessly escorted us round the city, always insisting that we discover more and basically being an out and out gem. Baking Blind in China would have been impossible without her.
Penny was really happy about the visit as she saw it as a real milestone in her mission to change attitudes towards blind people. When two local blind woman joined us to cook with two chefs of the hotel, Penny realised her role as an agent was complete as the two parties overcame the barrier of sight to cook some sterling dishes. A truly touching moment for all concerned.
I’ve waxed on about Chongqing enough. Go.
