Travels with my blind aunt — Last Week, Malawi
A travel journal from illustrator Toby Melville-Brown on his two month journey around the world with his blind aunt.
This is my last entry into Travels With My Blind Aunt, where I’ll try and give an idea of the last week in Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi in Central Africa.
Lilongwe. A huge contrast to every other location on the trip, and a decent finale to Penny Melville-Brown’s Baking Blind World Tour. For those unaware, Malawi is a country about the size of Greece. It’s fairly poor and relies much on aid from the UN and previous colonial ruler, United Kingdom. Despite this, it’s a country with a huge appetite for change. Thousands of Malawians are moving into its cities, in search of work and a modern life.
Baking Blind came to Malawi thanks to my sister, Jessica Melville-Brown. It was through her invaluable contact that we were able to visit Malawi and stay at the hotel. As expected, this small establishment was beautifully furnished and impeccably staffed. Though, I soon discovered, it was not Malawi. Outside the 10 ft walls of the compound was a very different life. And one I was dying to explore.
On my first night I got a chance to venture Outside. Lucy, a resident of Lilongwe drove me and her visiting sister, Toz into the centre. I foolishly expected a metropolitan hub, the kind of anomaly you find in most less well off countries. Not so. There are no polished malls and gleaming cuboids here but a small and energetic quarter with locally owned bars and clubs.
Here, outsider influence was rife. A mile from the city’s cultural heart was it’s official one. Newly named City Centre, consisted of the typical elements; Reserve Bank, Parliament Building and numerous government department blocks. Tellingly, where the old official structures had been financed by the British, it was now the Chinese that enabled the construction. I should hardly be surprised but there was something queer about the presence of a country from a previous week, making an impact, so far from its borders. Soft Power, nothing new.
Between armchair sociologist musings there was time for genuine positive involvement. Through Jess, Penny made contact with the Association of People with Albinism in Malawi — APAM. Here, albinism is much more common, with one in every thousand born with the condition. Following a discussion with the organisations directors, Penny was keen to highlight the issues they face. Much is needed medically, in the form of vision enhancers and sun protection. Most seriously, the campaign to protect albinos from attacks. This is in response to a spike in murders and sexual assaults against albinos due to the view that they can provide mythical healing properties. A lie created by those keen to profit from the sale of their bones.
I realise this finale is in need of some positivity. And I apologize to readers but also the beautiful people of Malawi that I have so far failed to list the wonders of this truly special country. Short of sounding trite, I got the sense that many were extremely happy. This nature was most present when visiting a village on the outer reaches of Lilongwe. The hotel’s head chef, Cephus Kadewere had organised for Penny to do a cooking session in his uncle’s village. This was a village of mud huts, live animals and plenty of smiling children. These guys had such a contagious energy, that I couldn’t help playing with their make-shift toys, showing them how to use my camera and pulling daft poses!
Following that; the highlight of the day and probably the week — we were invited to watch a typical Chewa Tribe dance. The township was marking the initiation of their new chief and so the customary dance ceremony ensued. In the sandy square, I stood and waited for the dancing to begin. And waited. Then, I heard screams from the children. Pandemonium amongst the youngers. Fingers pointing towards the bush. And I saw some gruesome figure running towards us, wailing and brandishing a staff. On inspection, it was a man, dressed in wet muddy rags, his face covered in tar like paint. This was a Chewa dancer. And more came, each dancer’s costume more outlandish than the last. The atmosphere was brilliant. I ran around with my camera, trying to capture the happenings, in a joyous hysteria, much like all the children. I left, buzzing with ideas.
Now I’m in Johannesburg Airport, waiting for my connecting flight to Heathrow. And then I’m home, to comforts, realities and festive anticipations. I’m not going to strive for a well rounded conclusion. It’s too early for that. But I want to thank Penny for this affirming adventure. I’ve travelled around the world before and like then, I return inspired, rejuvenated and very excited. But never before have I had the opportunity to access so many homes, so many stories, across so many countries.
And finally, love to Easle! Having this platform and obligation to record those moments has got my juices going. I’m returning with some big ideas, let’s talk!
And finally, finally; thank YOU for reading x
