The balcony of Umbria
This article was first published on CIBUS / May 2011.The buses from Foligno to Montefalco are sporadic. Buses run to and fro every two hours yet this inconvenience did not discourage us from visiting Montefalco.
Montefalco, was part of my father’s planned itinerary, whilst we were on a 3 day tour of the Italian festival I Primi d’Italia, in Foligno. The journey to the peak of the Umbrian hills is fascinating. You are surrounded by orderly fields of grape vines and olive trees, lined up like parading soldiers. Nature is at its best, creating a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere.
The bus stopped few metres away from the medieval doorway of the fortified town. Once you move beyond the high walls you can perceive a smell of the untouched, that natural odour of earth and woods. It’s as if the tannic scent of the Sagrantino grapes lingers over the entire town. Montefalco is synonymous for the Sagrantino grape variety which has been awarded the DOCG status.
The sacred atmosphere which reigns over Montefalco is reminiscent of the numerous medieval churches situated in the cobbled and narrow roads which spread through the town. We walked alertly around, attracted by the multiple shops of artisan textiles, biological extra virgin olive oil and Umbrian wine. There is nothing chaotic about the village of Montefalco. The atmosphere is serene, the pace is languid, and there is little business going on other than the shops, tourist attractions, restaurants and cafes.
A contemporary decorated shop, with a large display of olive oil and wine bottles labelled Romanelli caught our attention. An elegant, well-dressed gentleman approached us to introduce his products. In no time at all, we were engulfed in a deep conversation about our love for food and wine, our excitement about the Italian market and our passion for home made stuff. Mr. Costantino Romanelli, on seeing our growing enthusiasm, offered to guide us through his agricultural organisation. Definitely not an offer we could refuse, but first we had to lunch! We set appointment with Costantino for later that afternoon and meanwhile, we rummaged around the Umbrian town in search of a restaurant to tame our famished hearts.
Our family maxim, when on tour, is to eat the traditional specialities of the place. Thus, we were salivating to indulge in some typical Umbrian delicacies. At L’Alchimista the ambience is warm and glowing. Surrounded by hundreds of wine bottles, we proceeded to our table and chose a fragrant red Assisi wine. We nibbled on a selection of Umbrian cheeses and cold cuts and continued with a pork fillet cooked in Sagrantino wine. To conclude, the euphoric dessert — pears cooked in another dose of Sagrantino. L’Alchimista transported us to the Umbrian food paradise and we walked out satisfyingly full.
To loosen up, we sauntered down to the belvedere just outside the walls of Montefalco. I managed to nod off on a cold bench in front of the breath-taking 360° view of the Umbrian valleys. Parched with thirst, I woke up just in time to meet Costantino Romanelli and start our visit to his place. We met at the store in town, where Mrs. Romanelli was waiting for us with home-made grappa biscuits and a shot of the sweet, syrupy Passito di Sagrantino. Not the ideal drink to quench my thirst after a full-bodied red at lunch time, but then could I miss tasting this gem of a liquorish wine?!
Costantino drove us to the farm. On the way he explained to us the work of three generations of his family, the natural processes they adopt and the care and attention with which they cultivate their produce. We stopped at the grape vines to observe the Sagrantino fruit — perfect bunches of grapes emanating from groomed vines, with no dry or rotten fruits in sight. It all looked like an artistic work of art. At the production area, Costantino’s sons informed us that they pick the Sagrantino grapes late, when the fruits are riper, thus producing softer tannins. There is always a professional secret behind a high quality product!
The Romanelli family insist to preserve the nature which surrounds them. They produce biological oils and wine, giving particular attention to the environment. The family also developed Romanelli Natura — a project designed to sustain the environment and promote ecotourism. Visitors can enjoy walks amidst olive trees and vineyards, explore the flora and fauna and observe the different bird species in their natural habitat.
The best part of this adventure was yet to come. Sitting on a bench, breathing in the air of the Umbrian hills, we were presented with a selection of extra virgin olive oil and crunchy croutons. With difficulty, after the large meal, but gladly, I tasted all the olive oil varieties and was impressed by their definite aroma. Eventually, we were joined by a German couple who visited Romanelli a couple of years back for the grape harvest. With some intermittent English we managed to share our views on the wines as we sipped on the whole selection of the Romanelli produce which includes a Grechetto white, 3 reds, and the passito and grappa made from Sagrantino grapes.
By the time we finished our tasting session the sky had exploded into a downpour of heavy rain. Light-headed with the wine, my father and I took no notice of the time. It was only then that we realised we were late for the bus to Foligno. Luckily, the German couple gently offered us a lift to the Umbrian capital.
The Montefalco and Romanelli proved to be an enriching experience to our gusto sensibility. After all, I guess, heaven is also a place on earth!
Eatmania exclusively imports Romanelli products. For more information visit www.eatmania.com/products or call us on +356 9944 6469.
