台灣百岳：奇萊南峰 南華山 Mountains of Taiwan

Day 1: (7:00) 登山口0K → (9:00) 雲海保衛所 4.5K →(13:00) 天池山莊13K

Day 2: (3:00) 天池山莊13K →(5:00) 天池 →(6:00) 13K + 4.5K 奇萊南峰 → (9:00) 南華山 →(10:00) 天池山莊13K à整理裝備 下山 → (14:00) 雲海保衛所 4.5K →(15:30) 登山口0K

Taiwan’s beauty lies within its vibrant geography and people. This hike into two of Taiwan’s approachable 百岳, 奇萊南峰 and 南華山 presented Taiwan’s diverse topography — from Nantou’s aboriginal villages, bamboo jungles, pine tree forests, rock landslides, to the vast treeless plains at the summit. Stumbling upon Taiwan’s 百岳 — the once remote mountains that were beyond reach, was one of the greatest gifts received in 2019. The crossover from 2019 to 2020 will be unforgettable for me, with the first sunrise of 2020 rising above the sea of clouds one of the greatest new year’s gift.

Dad and I signed up with **旅行社, a hiking agency that accommodated us with a mountain guide, mountain lodgings, and transportation from Taichung. We arrived the night before at Nantou’s 仁愛township, and started our hike early in the morning at 7am. The trek towards 天池山莊 at 2860m is a 13 kilometer hike with a mild elevation of around 500m. We moved at a moderately slow pace with our bulky backpacks, enabling us to take in the beautiful mountain view along the way. It was an extremely pleasant forest walk with rich plantations casting shadows along the cool footpath. Various geographies, from stone pavements, pine covered paths, muddy waters, colossal rock landslides, towards challenging elevations led us slowly towards天池山莊. Wandering through the woods at a leisurely pace, the variations in footpath required acute concentration as each step is carried forward with meticulous care.

We reached 天池山莊 early afternoon, one of the most “lavish” mountain huts among Taiwan’s 百岳with water, simple hot meals, and a sturdy hinoki build. The management team of aboriginals accommodated us with great hospitality, who sang heartily along guitar chords as 2019 inched to an end. We succumbed to exhaustion and the cold early, retiring to our sleeping bags at 9pm with the frosty weather. The following day, we rose at 2:30am in preparation for the trek towards the summit.

The clear night sky was sprinkled with shimmering jewels of stars, the forerunners of a clear sky and beautiful sunrise. With our headlamps on, we trudged slowly along the pitch-dark mountain valleys, our bodies warm from the ascent and hearts eagerly anticipating the panorama of the summit. At around 5pm, we reached 天池with the frosty currents biting ruthlessly along the vast plains at 3000m. The subsequent 350-meter ascent was the final march towards the summit, and glints of orange shimmered in the distant skyline along with glitters of purple, blue, and yellow. As we reached the summit, we saw the sea of clouds cascading over the distant mountains and tumbling like crashing waves, powerfully evocative and magical. The distant summits peaked along the sea of clouds like floating islets, and we saw 奇萊主北峰 along the other beautiful mountaintops of Taiwan. At around 6:20pm, the first glints of 2020 rose through the sea of clouds, radiating a magnificent orange glow that reflected on 奇萊南峰’s golden, vast, and tumbling plains.

I realized that the beautiful panorama on the mountaintops that we set our heart on only came after hours of arduous trek in the woods. The respite on the summit is often brief because of the biting cold and powerful breeze, and it is the hours of footpath uphill that complete the essence of the trip. Just like life ventures — working ethics, committed perseverance, and hard-earned resilience often rest behind the scenes. In retrospection, I’ve often desired to expediate ventures towards goals, neglecting the importance of moderate pace. “學會放鬆、休息，才能走得更遠。”, said E****.

I guess long distance hikes are like marathons of lengthened time, heightened elevations, and more capricious challenges. It called for similar devotions: passion, perseverance, patience, practice, and pace. We learn most from where we stumble: injuries in training, slips on precarious topographies, incorrect assessments of capacity, or inadequate preparation. The fickle climate, the physical adaptations to altitudes, the mental resilience and discipline, and the compassion of fellow hikers elevates the challenges encountered on long distance hikes to another level. Sauntering into the woods in long distance hikes, I’ve always emerged with contemplations. The mind wanders through the forest, into ruminations, and sings along with the tune of nature. I’ve always appreciated such prolonged conversations with others along the journey or reflections with myself. The absence of distractions enables the mind to reflect in clarity, triggers sudden epiphanies, leaves our ponders behind. I enjoy the concentration for each immediate step, while being aware of the natural beauty all around us as we sink into the depths of nature. It reminds me of staying rooted, grounded, and being grateful for all I am granted along the highs and lows of different stages of life.

My first long distance hike into Taiwan’s 百岳taught me a lot about daily practice, perseverance, and pace. I ventured into the woods with B****’s university hiking team, towards the challenging footpaths of 閂山and鈴鳴山. I’ve never trekked for such long distances with a hefty backpack, and underestimated my physical capabilities and adaptabilities on the mountains. It taught me one of the best lessons — to accumulate daily practices and prepare adequately. The challenging trainings of 閂山and鈴鳴山 of a heavier backpack (we brought sleeping bags, cutlery, team equipment), a more demanding ascent, and longer trails prepared me for the the milder footpaths of 奇萊南峰 a week later. Such strenuous trainings of the former made the latter an easier task. It was the deftness and familiarity of a big fish swimming in a small pond, adapting easily with the diminishing difficulty. I thought about my career ventures ahead — onerous efforts committed in the initial years of career will be worth it, equipping us with skills of deployment in various environments.

I am most grateful for Dad’s company along the journey, along with the brilliant weather and kindness received along the way. I realized that this final year of university might be one of the most flexible periods before entering the workplace. Spending time with family comes before everything for me, and I realized that it is only when we leave home that we miss it the most. I’m extremely thankful for the mountains of Taiwan. They have opened up a journey of exploration, pulling me back towards the arms of mother nature, back to Taiwan, back home, wherever I go.