2020 Yushan (Mountain Jade) 玉山兩天一夜
Taiwan’s mountains radiate charm with their diversity, grandiosity, biodiversity, eternity, and unpredictability. As the peak of Taiwan at 3952 meters, Mountain Jade ranks among the first of “Top 100 mountains百岳” of Taiwan. Located in the central mountain ranges of Taiwan, Yushan national park covers a vast expanse of natural biodiversity and mountain ranges. As I stand at the starting point of Mountain Jade looking up at its grand presence and the surrounding peaks, it humbles me. I write this reflection log with the other half of my heart at ground zero, thankful for the great weather and good company.
We did the hike without a guide, which granted us flexibility and independence throughout the journey. But with that came rigorous preparation beforehand — researching hike routes, practicing weight bearing, height adaptation, and improvising our plans along the way. We started our hike at 嘉義’s 塔塔加鞍部, with an elevation of 800 meters for 8.5 kilometers to reach the Paiyun lodge (排雲山莊). Along the way, we were blessed with a cloudless sky and Taiwan’s humid summer heat, yet the elevation invited cool breezes that funneled through the valley.
The first day’s hike was a Z-shaped route with mild elevation, with the mountain on one side and open view of the surrounding panorama on the other. Yushan charms with its rich biodiversity, as pines, cedars, flora, and fauna transcend along the rise in altitude. During the first day of our hike, we climbed an altitudinal range from the 2600m starting point towards the 3400m Paiyun lodge, taking in the native plant and flower species native to Taiwan. (With 3% of Taiwan’s total land area, there is more than half of Taiwan’s native species in Yushan!)
It was early afternoon when we reached Paiyun lodge, and we rested our huge packs in its communal wood cabins, in preparation for hiking towards the peak at midnight the next day. Those more adventurous with high spirits could hike the remaining Yushan peaks (the Western peak is 4km from the lodge). We stayed at the lodge for a brief rest, soaking in the magic of this cabin at marked itself as the highest lodge in Taiwan, aloft from worlds below.
Hiking is a journey, not a race. Advancing at a fast pace is a knife with both ends, and it does more harm than good in the mountains. I recalled overestimating my limits and going too fast in my initial 百岳experiences, with painful consequences that followed. Slowing down, taking in the mountain view, having adequate rest, and sharing with others along the way relaxes our physical and psychological tensions in the mountains, and we adapt better with the changes in altitude, oxygen, and environment simultaneously.
We woke up and had breakfast at 1:30 am in early morning in the following day. Mom wasn’t feeling well — her head throbbed a bit and was slightly dizzy, and she made the decision of staying at the lodge while the rest of us aimed for the peak. Days later, she told me that she would’ve been able to hike it as well, if we were able to start the ascent later as she felt better afterwards. I reflected on how apprehensive, tense, and hurried we were that night, as it was an expedition in pitch darkness without a guide. We neglected how Mom was feeling, thought that it was best for her to rest, and then marched ahead. Sensitivity towards different physical adaptations of others, constant care and encouragement, and overview of hiking plans beforehand (Plan A Plan B) are essential in group hikes. I observed *****’s empathy and attention to detail in plans and group mates along the hikes I joined previously, and it is a virtue that I have to work on. Under challenging situations where time is limited, making decisions require experience, preparation, and putting aside self-interests for a communal good.
The hike towards the peak in the second day was a challenge. We started our hike around 2:15am in pitch darkness and bitter cold, with headlights on that glimmered under the night sky. It was a series of steep ascents in rocky boulders, as the geological features along Yushan’s very top transformed into walls of scattered rock cliffs. Dad marched first in the group and I stayed last, and we were mostly silent and alert under the night sky.
The beautiful constellations shined brightly above us with the clear night sky, a preview of the beautiful sunrise to come. As we inched slowly forward, the route transformed from rocky pathways with tall cedars into barren cliffs — the mountain on one side and plunging depths of V-shaped riverbeds on the other. We advanced slowly and cautiously, as a misstep might send us into the rocky river beds meters below. I told myself to take it a step at a time, focusing on three things only: the iron chains along the mountain ridge, the 30cm wide rock path below my foot, and my walking stick to support my next step. Chains, foot, stick. This arduous climb was made more difficult with the cold strong breeze. We made it to the summit surprisingly early, at 4:20am, and we sat on the rocks and waited for the 5:09 am sunrise.
As the sunbeams spilled under the sea of clouds, it lighted up the wide panorama of surrounding Yushan peaks. As we headed down towards the mountain hut, the plunging rock gorges emerged in its true form under the sunlight. I guess it was easier to hike up in pitch darknes, with such dramatic depths haha.
Open air, nature, and a fine walk are magic potions that enlighten and refreshes — I was delighted to see fam enjoying the beautiful weather and pleasant scenery along the way. D**** took out his phone snapping pictures along the way — feet dangling in midair, positioning his walking stick as a rifle, and gaping at the V-shaped riverbeds that plunged into great depths. This mischievous attitude is well-recorded in photos haha. I am always taken back by the conversations in nature that I wouldn’t have imagined in ground zero — commentary, sharing, and retrospections from family, friends, or just-met acquaintances alike. I got to know people a lot better in these conversations, and it definitely pulled the family closer together.
I had misunderstandings with bro in the past — his straight-forward temper, stark-contrast habits, social circle, and working attitude built a fortress of interests and habits that diverged from mine. Yet, in these past 6 months in Taiwan, I learned profoundly from his people instincts, social sensibility, and perspectives that were different from mine. We let down our guards, listened, shared, trusted, and relaxed. Thank you for opening those doors and letting me in.
I’m still a novice and learning every time as I approach the mountains of Taiwan. When hiking with a team, balancing the differences in physical strength, planning suitable routes with adequate resting time (with Plan A and Plan B), and being considerate to different needs are lessons that are learned by experience as the leader of a team. In terms of physical capacity, weight-bearing, long-distance treks, and countering diverse climates with altitudinal changes are lessons that I’m still learning. Most importantly, psychological resilience is what I found most important in multiple day hikes. Weathering throughout unprecedented predicaments such as adverse weather, physical strains, and team conflicts require experience, emotional intelligence, and resilience. We were very lucky this time, as the beautiful weather, the physical strength of team members, and well-marked footpaths paved way for a comfortable hike.
I am extremely thankful for the beautiful weather, the best company of family, and Taiwan’s natural beauty. These past 7 months in Taiwan changed my behavior, mindset, and perspectives subtly, and the mountains played a huge part. The beautiful weather, stretching landscape, and convivial moments with family and friends are happy moments rediscovered. Thank you — for the nature of Taiwan has made me appreciate this fertile and diverse land even more.
