Japan Travelogue 2022 — Kyoto
We embarked on a trip to Kyoto and Tokyo in the end of November, as travel gradually resumed for most of Asia. Family travel is a blessing after graduation from university, and I cherish the warm togetherness of exploring new places in these precious moments. Along the plane and train rides of the trip, I read Hemingway’s “A moveable Feast” and “The Sun also rises”. I was enchanted by his distinctive literary style: short, direct, and unadorned. Landscape descriptions of France and the Basque country were powerful, and he writes “You expected to be sad in the fall. Part of you died each year when the leaves fell from the trees and their branches were bare against the wind and the cold, wintery light. But you knew there would always be spring, as you knew the river would flow again after it was frozen.” But this trip to Kyoto in the end of Autumn shed a different light, as the maple leaves were lit with light and color in the end of their days, fluttering from the trees gracefully.
We spent the first three days in Kyoto and Osaka, and the remaining four days in Tokyo. 嵐山 (Arashiyama) in the western outskirts of Kyoto is a popular destination with its vibrant colors of autumn. There were many small shops, traditional Japanese cuisine restaurants, and cultural gems around the area, including the天龍寺 (Tenryuji Temple) and the金閣寺(Kinkaku-ji Temple).
It was refreshing and relaxing to stroll around the beautiful gardens and well paved stone paths, appreciating the crisp autumn air and landscape. Compared to many of the ornate and glamorous temples in Asia, these Japanese shrines radiated a humble and venerable glow — with grand wooden structures, spacious gardens, and rich cultural heritage. The temples were more embedded in nature and serene; less pompous and flamboyant. The cultural heritage was enriched by its natural setting in midst of the enchanting and tranquilizing landscapes. Shades of dark green, golden yellow, fiery red, and mellow orange were added to the palette of natural settings, as pines, maples, and maidenhair trees each radiated their unique glow.
We visited 清水寺 (the Kiyomizudera Temple) in the following day, situated in the eastern part of Kyoto. To visit the temple, we trotted along the narrow and uphill pedestrian stone stairs that were lined by shops along the streets. Matcha stores, pottery ateliers, and food shops offer plenty of local flair. Although the streets were touristy and commercialized, the ambiance was pleasant and comfortable. The eco-friendly, clean, and immaculate environment played a part — food consumption was allowed inside the shops only, thus littering and images of “eating along you walk” were minimal. 清水寺offers a commanding view of Kyoto, as it is situated on top of a cliff and supported by massive wooden pillars — standing 13 meters above the ground. The surroundings of the temple were blanketed by fiery autumn leaves, diffusing a magical spell of spirituality and nature spirit. I enjoyed the Chinese calligraphy decorations (mostly in clerical script, I’ve observed), beautiful proses that explains the shire’s deity and historical background.
Navigating along Kyoto and Osaka’s complex transportation system required good searches beforehand. The JR rail systems, private trainways, underground metro, and city busses were extremely convenient — linking up major tourist attractions seamlessly. Good utilization of the 72-hour pass (for tourists) instead of charging the prepaid IC card (Suica) card is an economical choice for tourists. Osaka, the densely populated metropolis surprised me with its prime hour traffic, as some of the interchange stations and people packed carts left no room to breeze — you floated along with the crowd like a mass of glacier sliding down the mountain. Yet getting lost, finding the way, and navigating new terrains together are all part of the fun when traveling together with family, especially with Japan’s security and well-organized travel system.
