Paris 7th Arrondissement explorations
12th Arrondissement Market Visits @ Marche d’Aligre
7th Arrondissement Market Visits @ Rue Cler & Marche Saxe Breteuil, and outdoors picnic @ Champ de Mars
Travel writer 劉克襄 once said, you understand local culture through a visit to traditional markets and venturing into nature. This is certainly true, as discoveries in outdoor markets in the arrondissements of Paris made me realize that even the markets in Central Paris cater to local neighborhoods and vary greatly in selection, quality, ambience, and price. A visit to the Marche d’Aligre in the 12th arrondissement last week broadened introduced me to the fresh produces all over France-fresh vegetables, fruits, cheeses, poultries, and meat came in varying selections and extremely competitive low prices.
Supermarkets around the world might be similar in ambience–the frozen stalls, the checkout counters, and the air-conditioned environment. Yet it is the traditional markets that each radiate distinct local charms of the people, the culture, and the fresh produces. Taiwanese “菜市場” traditional markets are radiant with a variety of local fresh produce, seafood, affectionate and friendly vendors, and a blend of flavors from Taiwanese and Chinese cuisine. Hong Kong street markets “街市” are characterized by the frenzied movements, loud noises, ready-made 燒臘, huge variety of vegetables from China, and efficient and passionate vendors. (when you get to know them haha) French traditional markets radiated a completely different vibe. When you walk across the stalls, it is not the “一斤10蚊” that the vendors shout out (typical Hong Kong ), nor the “看看喔” from the slightly milder ambience in Taiwanese market, but the polite “Bonjour madame” from vendors behind the stalls. They stand inside their stalls arranging their goods, and greet you politely with a twinkle in the eye and a smile. As I walked past the stalls selling ubiquitous goods in the early morning, the market was just coming alive, thus being greeted by multiple vendors was really a pleasant “cultural shock/surprise.” The shoppers came from all walks of life, from nicely dressed senior gentleman strolling with their trench coats, elderly ladies pulling their market wagons, to mothers hand in hand with their young children sampling fruits sliced open on the stalls, it was a lively and happy scene that made the heart sing. The amazing ambience, bountiful choices, and extremely cheap prices (I got 4 tangerines for 0.8 euros, and 5 avocados for 2 euros) made the traditional markets a wonderful place to get fresh goods, stroll, and feel like part of the culinary life of Paris.
Today’s visit to the 7th arrondissement’s Rue Cler Market and Marche Saxe Breteuil broadened my horizons on the high standards of quality for fresh seafood, dairy produce, and ripe vegetables. As the 7th arrondissement boosts one of Paris’s most affluent neighborhoods, the stalls in Rue Cler are neatly lined in front of respective shops, and produces are of high quality and price. There were a few specialty shops, including fromageries, boissoners, pastry shops, chocolate shops, and a few vegetable halles, yet the street had less “traditional market” charm as stores seemed distant from each other and lacked the vibrancy and energy of a open air farmer’s market.
Venturing down the street and strolling towards the Champ de Mars, we entered Marche Saxe Breteuil, another open air market in the 7th arrondissement radiating local vibes as you see Parisians carrying their shopping carts and rolling baby carts casually strolling through the stands. It was upscale and vibrant at the same time, with fresh seafood, vegetable and fruits, dairy products, and cooked cuisine (wide selection of Moroccan curry, Lebanese pita sandwiches, roast poultry, spreads, and cold salads). In comparison with the Aligre market, I found that vegetable and fruit prices cost twice as much, yet I guess this caters to the residents that were not very price conscious and enjoyed shopping for quality. Jessie, Jennifer, and I bought some cooked food for our lunch picnic, as the day was gloriously warm for Paris’s early March season, at 17 degrees Celsius the weather was perfect with the bright sun shining in midday. We settled before Champs de Mars, and enjoyed our meal before the Tour Eiffel during low tourist season.
I’m always thankful for catching up with Jenn in Paris, the creative pursuit ideas she offers, her pocket list recommendations, and her insights to French culture and society. From French education systems, political structure, architecture, and history, these cultural discussions are precious with reflections from comparison–with our multi-cultural ventures in France, the US, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. “Living in a foreign city can be really different from traveling, as we don’t have to soak up everything in a single visit.” Jessie’s reflections ring true, as the slower your pace to savor the ambience, the architecture, the people, and the city vibes, the sharper and deeper your cultural reflection. Take it slow, savor the city of lights, one step at a time.
Interesting reflective takeaways with Jennifer Wang and Jessie:
1. Travel reflections, personal quiet time, future plans
2. French education system: Students attend rigorous prep school for Grand Ecoles (like HEC and Sciences Po), most do a gap semester internship before entering the job market. This definitely shape up a different maturity and perspective for French Grand Ecole students when studying, not taking their education for granted and viewing studies at a different height. The Professors, on the other hand, are mostly straight out of industry instead of from academia. These observations ring true, as discussions with Singapore exchange students made us realize that HK and SGP education systems tend to hire extensively from academia, professors with PHDs instead of those with extensive industry experience. In contrast, my professors in HEC for all 3 finance classes are straight from industry, MDs from IB, S&T, and a venture capitalist. Note that quite a few Asian/foreign students take on Masters in top Ecoles in France, yet French fluency stands as a huge entry barrier to the local job market.
3. Culture and lifestyle: City vibes, Reverse culture shock, cross-cultural communication, and peers across continents radiating different vibes and personality.
