10 Days in Morocco: A Road Trip Opens Your Eyes to the World
Four lads, one car, and ten days to explore a vast country with varying environments and micro-cultures. Certainly out of our depths, but was it worth it?
Blazing heat, massive six-litre bottles of water, health risks, restrictive culture, and egg shells to be trodden…
Despite these preconceptions of Morocco, and the seemingly inevitable case of food-related discomfort (mine of course), my views were swiftly turned by this vast, disparate, baron, yet beautiful and awe-inspiring corner of the world.
As the title suggests, I (with a group of high school mates) went on a trip around the entire country (more or less) to experience as much as I could in 10 days. Our trusty steed, a white Toyota Yaris, served us well as we traversed thousands of kilometres of the country’s not-so-deserted lands — from the border of the Sahara desert to the tranquillity and easy-going manner of its western coastlines.
I was surprised to say the least. Before I talk about the numerous experiences we had on this journey, I’ll give you a quick rundown of the route.
Day 1: Land in Tangier
Day 2: Tangier to Fes via Chefchaouen
Day 3: Fes to Merzouga (aka, the Desert!)
Day 4: Merzouga to Marrakech
Day 5: Spent in Marrakech
Day 6: Marrakech to Taghazout
Day 7 and 8: Surfing in Taghazout
Day 9: Tagazhout to Rabat via Casablanca
Day 10: Rabat to Tangier (and then Home!)
So, you know where I’m taking you, I hope you’re prepared for a long and exciting journey. Now, put your seatbelt on and let’s get going!
First things first…
A trip like this is not for the faint of heart. I don’t mean to say that you’d be stepping into harm’s way by going to Morocco, but it seems that western culture isn’t exactly attuned to that of Africa. The culture of Morocco in particular is one that you have to experience up close and personal in order to fully understand what it’s like to live there.
Having read up on the country and the destinations we had set ourselves for this trip, little did we consider the space in between — the real areas of enlightenment; they humble even the more modest people. You see some sights in the depths of Morocco’s rural settlements, and the vast spaces in betweens, that are beyond traditional sightseeing.
It takes being there in person and seeing it with your own eyes to comprehend the disparity (and the spectrum is as broad as the country is long). Quite frankly, I’m glad the trip unfolded in this way. If I were cooped up in a resort — soon to be the case as the country welcomes tourism with billions of dollars of investment — I never would have opened my eyes to the culture and its people.
Before you cross that border, be sure to get a clear view of the culture and lifestyle, but try your best not to form any particular prejudices about the place. How the country looks, feels, and runs is very different to what westerners are used to — that’s not to say that westerners are the only ones to potentially struggle with such a change.
Preconceptions resolved in the city of Tangier
If you land in Tangier and explore the city like we did, it seems there is little to see besides the ruggedness of its streets, buildings, and general aesthetic in most parts. This is partly due to the fact that Tangier is a work in progress and more tourism brings with it funds to help the city, and many others, evolve.
Although there are limitations, such as the heat and dryness of the region in general, there are few natural, green spaces. However, I soon noticed just how tidy the city actually is. Beyond the blemishes, Tangier is kept well — a result of workers trawling the city night and day to clean up and care for the remaining green areas that are yet to be blemished by the sun.
The general trend you notice when exploring Morocco is the commitment to ‘greening’. What I’m referring to is the number of gardeners at work to plant and protect nature’s interests. This gives the place an air of cultivation, not just in terms of its looks, but the pride its people take in making the city look its best.
I’ve high hopes that these efforts will pay off, especially having seen the results in more defined cities — the new capital, Rabat, is perhaps the greatest example of what the rest might look like. Kudos to those watering the grass at night; a thankless task I’m sure (I know, I did this myself for a few years).
On to the next destination… Fes
While the culture transition certainly hit once we’d landed in Tangier, I couldn’t quite visualise what I’d read in numerous articles about the country as a whole.
Many people suggested you should be diligent, which is a result of the aforementioned disparity and the well-known fact that pickpockets run rife in some parts. It was also made clear to me, through reading, that personal space would be scarce, which is what I later realised once I entered a true labyrinth for myself.
The medina (generally characterised by high walls, narrow streets, and lots and lots of street vendors) was where the true lifestyle of the Moroccan people sunk in. It comes as a shock to experience their persistence as they put forward their attempts to sell you stuff. Some may not get up from their seats to get your attention while others may enter your personal bubble before you can even think to blink.
This can be a little daunting at first, but the reality is that most people are just very friendly — not to mention keen to make money from anyone who looks like they may have ventured over from the West.
The quicker you realise that these people are simply doing what they can, the sooner you can relax and enjoy the scenes without feeling obliged to shed your precious Dirhams to the first person that reaches out to you. These people are kind, funny, and love to chat to new people — the caveat being that they may ‘gift’ you something that could later result in you dipping in your pocket.
All-in-all, just be respectful. Know that if someone offers you something for free you may be asked to pay later. On the flip side, if a vendor comes to you because you might have some money to spend, don’t feel obliged to purchase things you don’t want.
If you find something that you like, haggle for it! It’s only fair to do so in order to be accepting of Moroccan culture.
A trip to the desert amid an oncoming sandstorm
I’m sure many would wince at the idea of potentially blistering heat in the vastness of the Moroccan desert. But, intrigued by the lifestyle out there, we drove straight towards it knowing that we’d be in an environment even further beyond our comfort zones.
If I hadn’t taken this opportunity, I wouldn’t have had the most authentic experience — a Camel ride into the desert dunes and a night’s stay in between them. Merzouga is a place far beyond most of the cities in Morocco and almost backs onto the main Sahara desert. It’s a glimpse of the vastness of a place where very few feel the need to go.
With a sandstorm brewing upon arrival, we wrapped up as necessary before taking a beating atop our trusty four-legged desert experts. Camel riding is unlike anything else. Having tethered my beast to the other three’s, we were led out into the desert by a man tougher than you or I.
He strolled into the midst, his feet in sandals and exposed; his face uncovered entirely. This was a man of the desert, one who knew what he was walking into.
Having observed the man for some time, I quickly turned my attention to my Camel (not literally mine, but for the purposes of this experience) and I wondered: “Does he know where he’s going? What would happen if Luke’s rather loose-looking rope were to come undone?” Luke being the mate riding in front of me.
Sure enough, that rope did come loose, provoking very little amusement. In fact, nothing happened — the Camel’s just stopped. Not only had I discounted any scenarios in my head of us bounding through the desert on loose animals trying desperately to hold on, but it also made me feel for them. I’m unsure as to how well you can treat such a hardy animal, but they seemed as though they were in some sort of trance. They weren’t going anywhere without a lead.
Anyway, for an hour and a half we sat on them while the man in front strolled across the sands. Sure enough, the sandstorm worsened, but none of us were phased by it.
That night, it was a short and sweet stay in a conveniently-placed, luxurious desert settlement, which consisted of a spread of local food — including Tagines of course — and dancing and drum-beating round a fire pit. The next day we rose with the sun and took to our lanky 4x4s once more, headed for the car and the next leg of our trip. Next up, a favourite among westerners — Marrakech.
The old capital of Morocco: The busiest city of them all
If you’re looking for a major culture trip, then perhaps Marrakech is the city for you. As more tourists enter the country, Marrakech is the place to get a flavour of Moroccan life — which it very much delivers.
Despite catering to more and more visitors with fancy rooftop top restaurant bars and the odd upmarket club, the city stays very true to its roots. Walking around the medina in Marrakech, and through its local food market, is almost impossible without offerings of the best-priced food in the area and high-quality goods that suit you perfectly (all biases of the vendors).
My advice to anyone that travels there for the first time is to be vigilant as, particularly on food stalls, the money very rarely adds up at the end of a sitting. I often found myself wondering whether we were actually offered things for free or merely had extra charges forced upon us for things we really didn’t want. This goes back to my point about understanding the culture and learning when to say no (trust me, they’re used to it).
Apart from the hustle and bustle, and being cramped in popular areas, the centre is home to some great people and interesting sights. Now, your doctor or nurse will likely tell you to stay away from any animals, but during the day, you can certainly catch a glimpse from afar. Generally there are men carrying monkeys and poised for photos (to avoid) and snake charmers perched inches away from cobras and other snakes (I don’t need to tell you to keep your distance).
Marrakech is a city to get lost in. Keep your belongings close, but let your mind wander. As you traverse new surroundings and watch the people go by, you’ll slowly become accustomed to the way of life.
I definitely felt my perspective shifting at this point in our journey.
Taghazout-bound: A new-found tranquillity on the West Coast
Exhaustion setting in and a rather unwelcome reaction to something (probably food) clouded my thoughts on the way to Taghazout. Had I been driving, maybe I would have disguised such feelings with the intense sensation of cruising the open road.
Despite feeling rough around the edges, it wasn’t long before my need for relaxation was met — not physically, but I sought a calm mind and recovery from the heat. What better way to cool off and unwind than to take a leap into the ocean.
Granted we didn’t exactly relax all that much as we were in Taghazout to learn how to cruise the waves — a couple of days of surfing was on the agenda. For just 300 Dirham (Equivalent to less than £30) our hostel offered an inclusive package: equipment, transport, surfing lessons, and food!
On day one of surfing, I took a beating. People aren’t joking when they say the ocean can be harsh. I stood for a split second on a couple of tries, but wasn’t majorly impressed with my progress at the end of the day.
Come day two and I was feeling worse for wear, but with a little encouragement I ventured out for yet another beating from the ripples of the North Atlantic. Despite adversity, I managed to do exactly what I was told on that day — I eventually cruised the waves to a point where I could comfortably dismount to a standing position.
Success! Not bad for a guy with a dicky tummy (stomach ache), a cracking headache, and lacking sleep.
Having spent the morning in triumph, I thought it best to step aside for the afternoon session and enjoy the surroundings for the last time. The beach I lounged on was that of Agadir, a beautiful coastal town just 20 minutes from Taghazout. It’s a surfing hotspot at that time of year — the end of the wave-carving season — according to our instructor, Youness.
In fact, a conversation I had with Youness really summed up the environment we were in. I don’t know about you but, generally speaking, I tend to keep my belongings close and distance plenty when I go to a beach in the UK, or even in Europe. I’m plagued by the thought of someone taking or tampering with my things in search of the valuables that they can acquire.
Having spoken to Youness, I was able to stop and think about things. For two whole days we’d left our stuff lying vulnerable on the beach while we were preoccupied with waves crashing and surfboards flipping. Nobody touches anything.
This is a conscious effort among the people that go there, who enjoy the same great locations as other surfers and beach-goers — alongside the stray dogs! He explained that, as a community, it just works. Everyone seems to deliver the same commitment to each other, which is to be kind to one another and keep the space clean, tidy, and inviting for people like you and I to experience.
So profound… Very inspiring indeed.
In a place where the population seemingly had less than us, we felt so welcome in a community that brought people together harmoniously — in ways lost to even the most humble people.
It’s the place where the humble get humbled — so to speak.
For me personally, the final leg of our journey couldn’t match this experience, as this one conversation brought together everything I had learned and observed about Morocco so far.
The final stretch of travel in Morocco
In all honesty, there is very little to say about the last few stops on our tour du Maroc. We drove North along the coastal roads, stopping and staying in different cities. Essaouira made for a quick snapshot before we got back on the road. The grandeur of the second-largest of Africa’s mosques was about all we could bring ourselves to look at in Casablanca.
Instead, we spared little time and instead focused on finding our AirBnB in Rabat, keeping things light and easy before closing the loop on our Moroccan expedition.
So, what are my final thoughts now that I’m back in the comfort of my homeland. As I reflect on this journey as a whole, I’m able to uncover things that I learned that perhaps weren’t so clear to me at the time.
I’ve come to realise that, to truly understand the world, you have to venture to places unknown. Actually, you have to go beyond that. The places we’ve seen and the sights we were able to witness along the way could not be recommended by a quick Google search or scroll through TripAdvisor. We live such connected lives, often plagued by perks that we now see as necessities, so it’s great to be able to switch off and experience whole-heartedly a place where the things we take for granted don’t matter to anyone else.
What a fantastic adventure. I doubt many people would embark on such a trip. Kudos to my friends who did most of the planning! We made it to the depths, and I’m forever grateful that we did!
To those that may or may not read this, Shkran (Thank You)! It was a pleasure.
If you enjoyed this journey in Morocco, I write about more than just my travels! You can find content on remote working HERE, and my Substack is growing with useful insights for the next generation.