A Family Adventure in Nova Scotia
Highlights from our 15 day road trip around two Canadian provinces, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island
This adventure had been talked about for well over a decade; a homecoming for my Nova Scotian-born wife and a first-time visit to Canada for both me and our two kids. We’d held off until the kids were old enough to remember and enjoy it (they’re 8 and 10 years old).
My hope is that article is helpful to anyone who might be planning a trip to Nova Scotia (and Prince Edward Island) and maybe inspiring to anyone who hadn’t considered this place. If you’d be interested in more details than what’s provided here, add a comment.
We booked the flights a year ago and planned our trip for the latter part of the school summer holidays, so mid-August time. When planning the route, starting and finishing in Halifax, I took into account some places we wanted to visit — or revisit for my wife — and aimed for a 2-hour max travel time between places to stop the kids from getting too bored.
I booked a hire car through a broker site called QEEQ which was both cheap and excellent. The flights were booked directly with Air Canada and accommodation was booked using Airbnb, Booking.com or direct with a hotel. We staying in different types of accommodation to add to the memory-making.
Size and population
We visited two out of the 10 territories in Canada. Nova Scotia — NS for short — is about half the size of England with a population of just over 1 million people. The capital, Halifax, and it’s surrounding area has a population of around 420,000 which means there are vast areas of quietness and not-many-people.
Prince Edward Island — often referred to as PEI— is another territory a short distance away across a stretch of water called the Northumberland Strait. PEI is a small island, 2,185 square miles, or 1/23 the size of England, with a population of around 170,000 for the entire island. It’s capital Charlottetown is home to around 150,000.
If you like quietness and trees and water and space, read on.
For comparison my hometown of Sheffield is the 5th largest city in England and has a population of 556,500, so roughly the same number of people as Halifax and Charlottetown combined.
Packing light(ish)
We packed 3 bags for the trip which all needed to fit in the boot (trunk) of a mid-sized hire car:
- North Face Basecamp Duffle bag (size L). This was 22kg at check in.
- North Face Basecamp Duffle bag (size M). This was 18kg at check in.
- Patagonia Black Hole (34L) as our only carry on bag.
We used 1 packing cube each for our clothes and another for swimming stuff and travel towels. We each took 1 or 2 pairs of shoes, plus sandals, flip flops or crocs.
We’d mistakenly packed a too-small pair of trainers for our daughter so she wore crocs for the entire trip — and we walked 75 miles — with no blisters, rubbing or pain whatsoever. We did look at buying her a pair of trainers in Halifax but she was happy in her moulded footwear.
Our route, itinerary and daily highlights
Day 1 — To London Heathrow
Home to the airport was a 4 hour journey so we booked a night at a hotel near Heathrow to make sure we had no travel stress on the day of our flight. We had a great night sleep, our room was so quiet even in a busy hotel that was next to a runway. A nice reminder that it is possible to sleep in an airport hotel, well done Premier Inn (take note Moxy).
Days 2 — To Halifax
The Air Canada flight was lovely and uneventful. Kids enjoyed having access to a screen for 6 hours and enjoyed playing Angry Birds whilst not getting hungry with the seemingly constant food and snacks served. We landed at Halifax Stanfield International Airport mid-afternoon and enjoyed the flat $70 taxi fee to downtown.
After checking in at our hotel near the Citadel we ventured straight out to the waterfront, a 15 minute walk down the hill. Almost immediate we came across The Wave monument which the kids loved climbing up and sliding down whilst we ignored the ace ‘Do not climb’ signs along with all other adults. Had some late food of poutine and calamari whilst overlooking the harbour.
My early thoughts of Halifax were it was like visiting a city with a 1980’s filter on my eyes; like a blast from the past, with some buildings looking dated, both inside and out. This feeling remained throughout the trip and I absolutely loved it.
Days 3 and 4 — Halifax
After an early 6.30am breakfast — hunger, not jet lag — we walked back down to the waterfront for trip on the Harbour Hopper; an amphibious vehicle which started its life in the war in Vietnam. It was a great tour and we all enjoyed being proper tourists.
The tour started off touring the streets of downtown, heading up to loop the Citadel before splashing into water and touring along the waterfront. The route, views and weather were superb, as was the commentary from the tour guide. I’d read loads about Halifax before visiting but never heard about the catastrophic explosion that took place in 1917 wiping out the city and killing 1,782 souls.
Next followed a tour of some stationery shops so my wife and daughter could get their paper fix, before stumbling across the Halifax Wanderers football (soccer) store to surprise both kids with pre-arranged football shirts with their names and club numbers.
In the afternoon we looked round the Citadel, listening to bagpipers play was really special. We spent the afternoon at Halifax Commons swimming in an excellent community pool. It really was brilliant; inflatable toys, foam mats, noodles, lifeguards, lockers, pool-side climbing walls all provided for free. The pool staff told us about The Oval across the road which provide bikes, roller blades, skateboards, longboards and more….all for free. In winter it turns into an ice rink with skating equipment and skating lessons provided, yep, for free. Well done Halifax.
The next morning was a Saturday so we strolled to the farmers market which was a lively and bustling place full of local bakers, farmers, craft stalls and food vendors. Bought some much-needed fruit and devoured cans of Noggins Corner apple juice.
We then caught caught a ferry across to Dartmouth and looked round this lovely small town/neighbourhood, ate the best pizza of the trip at Yeah Yeahs, and hid from the midday sun under some shady trees in Dartmouth Commons. That evening we wandered back down to the waterfront, more Wave sliding, ice cream, poutine and Beavertails. Managed to walk 24 miles in 2 and a bit days.
Huge thanks to Claire from Nova Scotia Digital for sharing some brilliant recommendations of coffee shops, stationery shops and outdoor spaces.
Day 5 — Peggy’s Cove, Chester, Mahone Bay and Lunenburg
I picked up our pre-booked hire car on the Sunday morning. This was the first time I’d driven on the right and in a left-hand drive car. I was so nervous; I’d been dreading this moment for ages. But, like most things, the thought was far, far worse than the thing.
After safely driving back to the hotel to picked up wife and kids with no problems, we put the bags in the trunk and headed out for our first stop; Peggy’s Cove.
This is a beaut of a lighthouse on a stunning bit of headland, but its popularity spoilt it for me. Doing laps of two big car parks to find a space wasn’t what I’d expected. My wife absolutely loved returning though and that’s all that mattered. And she loved her first lobster roll from Tom’s Lobster Shack.
An hour later we were strolling round Chester, a small town along the coast. A few shops were open but we headed for our first beach visit. Next was Mahone Bay a slightly larger town which we all liked a lot. It had some lovely shops, a great ice cream parlour and a restaurant called Oh my cod! which is just brilliant.
We got into Lunenburg by late afternoon and checked straight into the lovely Salt Shaker Deli & Inn. Strolled to the wharf and, by huge luck, the famous Bluenose II boat was docked up and allowing visitors to board. Ate back at the Inn and slept well.
Day 6 — Bridgewater and Molega Lake
Started the day walking round the lovely shops in Lunenburg. Ate pancakes from The Savvy Sailor cafe before heading off in the car.
Stopped for essentials at the mall in Bridgewater before arriving at what was easily the place we were all most excited about on the trip; staying at a proper Canadian cabin on the lake. Oh my, it did not disappoint, it was incredible. The hosts, Peter and Hendrix, were so helpful and lovely and generous; baking a pie when we arrived, providing s’mores, blasting out music requests, teaching the kids to fish, cooking breakfast — the list goes on. Two of the most kind humans we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting.
We spent the afternoon in the lake swimming, kayaking, visiting remote islands. Peter even got his drone out to take some pretty special photos. Saw our first bald eagle overhead of the trip and our first ever hummingbird. We lit a fire in the evening, ate too many s’mores and listened to Mcginty late into the night.
The following morning came too soon and we were each gutted to be leaving. My advice would be stay and to stay more than one night.
Day 7 — Kejimkujik National Park and Digby
‘Keji’ is a vast, wonderful and lush national park. It really is gigantic. We had time for a 2 mile stroll to/from Mills Falls which gave us just a small taste of what could easily sap a week or more of time. The kids enjoyed ticking off things to find and loved their Parks Canada dog tag reward.
Onwards to Digby and the only disappointment of the trip, heighten after leaving the cabin if we’re being honest. This town had an air of tiredness and bygone happiness. Stopped at The Digby Pines Golf Resort hotel which was old, tired and a disappointment. The heated outdoor pool provided the usual entertainment though and the kids and I spent several happy hours swimming and jumping in.
Day 8 — Annapolis Royal, Wolfville and Moose Brook
The hotel wanted to charge $85 (£47) for breakfast, so we were out by 8.30am and had an expensive pastry breakfast at a German cafe in Annapolis Royal. Enjoyed strolling round this great little town, we enjoyed it a lot. The shops were lovely and the local market was small-but-excellent. Walked back to the car via the Forte Anne, a citadel-shaped fort.
Wolfville is a university town a few miles down the quieter Trunk road 1. Got chatting to Linda, a lovely elderly lady who told us about her family growing up in the town and how her grandmother had survived the Halifax explosion.
Popped into Wolfville & Lightfoot vineyard to tick the vineyard box before another short drive to Moose Brook and our cabin for the night on the bay of Fundy. It was another excellent choice made special by the host, Heidi, taking time to give a tour of her farm and animals (alpacas, chickens, highland cattle and a massive dog). The kids loved feeding them. We cooked a bbq, spent the night in the hammock watching the tide do its world-record-holding thing, having a fire and watching shooting stars. It was as good as it sounds.
Day 9 — Ferry to Prince Edward Island and Charlottetown
Early start as we wanted to see Burntcoat Head Park for low tide, before a steady journey to get to the Caribou ferry terminal in time for our 90 minute ferry crossing to PEI. Loved getting out on deck, wind on face. The journey to Charlottetown took 45 minutes on the other side and we chucked the car in our hotel carpark and went straight out exploring.
Charlottetown was perfectly fine but I think we hoped the waterfront might have more going on that it did. It felt like an inland town not making the most of it’s seafront location. There might be a reason for it, but felt a shame all the same.
Used a laundromat for the first time in my life to freshen up some clothes and spent our evening watching a team of kids play baseball in Victoria Park. We couldn’t understand the rules, but it felt like we were doing a very Canadian thing. Walked back along the boardwalk, sun setting behind us thinking Charlottetown was much better than when we first arrived.
Day 10 — Cavendish, return Ferry and Antigonish
The hotel breakfast was a disappointment, style over substance. No point having sub-standard waffles on a nice plate. But we didn’t have time to fester; we were off to Anne of Green Gables museum, over in the Cavendish area about 30 minutes away.
It was great and was made special by chatting with the very pleasant owner of the museum, house and land, a distant cousin of LM Montgomery who wrote this famous book in 1908. Reminded myself I should read the book.
Next stop; Shining Waters Family fun park and a great place to double-down on brownie points for the kids and have some waterpark fun. Water slides, pools, rides and more Beavertails than you can shake a stick at. Enjoyed this place a lot.
Drove back to Wood Islands to catch the 5pm ferry and then drove to Antigonish, home to the second best pizza of the trip. We stayed in the Maritime Inn and it was spot on.
Days 11 and 12 — Cape Breton Island and Baddeck
Early pancake breakfast (rated 9/10 by the kids) before strolling round this wonderful university town. It’s Saturday again so there’s a farmers market and we boost our fruit intake mainly by picking up more Noggins Corner juice and some real apples this time.
Spotted a white Toyota Corolla, similar to ours, having is door shimmied open with a long rod. It was mid-morning and it’s a busy place, so we assumed it was a case of lost keys.
Strolled back to the car through the grounds of the very lovely St Franics Xavier university when my daughter found a set of car keys, similar to ours. The reg on the fob matched the car, so thus followed an hour of back and forth between a gas (petrol) station, police station and back to gas station. Hopefully the owner was reunited with them.
Our 90 minute journey took us across the Canso Causeway and onto Cape Breton Island. We’re still in NS, but Cape Breton has it’s own flag, heritage and the Scottish-ness ramps up.
We headed to our next cabin grateful that this a two-night stay in the same place, our first since Halifax. It doesn’t take us long to see an eagle whilst kayaking on the lake. The kids find YouTube inside and we weigh up moaning that they should be lapping up the scenery with lapping up the scenery in silence. Silence wins.
After breakfast of toast and butter (5/10) we head into Baddeck. It’s smaller than we thought, but still very lovely. The owner of the ace Flying Kite gift shop tells us about a free ferry across to Kidston Island which is a must. She’s not wrong; it’s a delightful way to spend the next 3 hours, sunning ourselves on the beach and diving into the water off a pontoon. The water is salty and we have no idea if we’re in a lake or the sea.
Head back to try and book tickets for Ceilidh music in the village hall but it’s all sold out. Tip: Reserve tickets here at least 2 days in advance for Ceilidh at St Michael’s in Baddeck. So it’s back to the cabin for more toast, kayaking, swimming in the lake. We spot shooting whilst sitting on the dock.
Day 13 — Sydney
It’s a relaxed morning, off by 10am to Sydney, the capital of Cape Breton Island and the place my wife was born. I’d written a letter to the owners of the house she grew up in and we’ve been in contact for 6 months on email planning a surprise. My wife was so nervous knocking on the door, but tears strolled when the owners opened the door and arms. Really lovely to be surrounded by so many kind people.
They gave us a tour of the house, talked about what they’d not changed and why and then we ate lunch on their decking. It was so special, a real treat to be in their company and I know we’ll keep in touch.
Wandered round Sydney for the rest of the afternoon, enjoyed seeing where the Eagles play ice hockey (daughter was allowed to keep a puck she found), spotted The Big Fiddle and checked into our hotel, complete with a slide into the pool. Went to McDonalds for tea and enjoyed every mouthful.
I could see how others might say this is another tired looking place. But to me it had an air of a city slowly upping its game. For my wife it felt homely. I’ll only have positive memories about and positive words for Sydney.
Day 14 — Louisbourg, The Cabot Trail and Cape Breton Highlands
Another pancake breakfast and the maple syrup in packets let things down. The coffee was good though.
We were parked up at the The Fortress of Louisbourg visitor centre for 10am, waiting for the first bus of the day to take us down to the settlement. It’s a really impressive place made by the people in traditional clothing from the 1760’s and in character. I really enjoyed the guards correcting the visitors who asked ‘what was this place like in the day?’ and instantly being asked ‘what do you mean was?’.
We spent a few hours wandering round, seeing a musket being fired and then seeing a canon being fired. Enjoyed talking to a canon guard who said they can fire 2km when straight and 2 miles when fired at a 15° angle. Learnt about the British and French fighting for the settlement, how in 1760’s they were drying and salting 15 million pounds of fish each year, shipped to France, America and West Indies, all about a 6–8 week journey from Louisbourg. Kept my accent quiet for the most parts.
The afternoon was spent driving the start of The Cabot Trail, something we’d all been looking forward to. It didn’t disappoint.
Rising from the sea and clinging to mountains, the 298-kilometre-long Cabot Trail is a winding mix of roadway, paths, stairs and stunning beauty that takes you from unreal ocean vistas to quaint fishing villages.
Spent the night at Keltic Lodge and felt sad. This place has special memories for my wife and family and to see it partially closed, waiting for the Atlantic weather to claim it back. “Awaiting renovation” was the line being spun by the staff but it’s clearly not.
The evening got better with a sunset dip in the sea at Freshwater Lake Trailhead. It dipped a bit when an evening walk Middle Head Trailhead stopped before it started with the ‘This is coyote habitat’ sign. Ate in the hotel bar listening to a singer cover Atlantic fiddle music songs.
Day 15 — Black Brook Cove Beach, Skyline Trail and Chéticamp
Up early and ate an average breakfast. Cringed when the staff told us it wasn’t included in the already-expensive nightly cost. Paid the additional $119 (£67) and went back for some more muffins. That’ll teach ‘em.
15 minutes later we were the only ones on the beach at Black Brook Cove Beach enjoying the warm sea and stunning views. Daughter saw a whale in the distance. This is a special place and we enjoyed every heart-bursting moment; it’s beyond beautiful.
Had an ice cream in the lighthouse at Neils Harbour and took the coastal 30 road to rejoin the Cabot Trail road on the recommendation of the helpful ice cream parlour owner. Great advice, it’s a lovely road heading through tiny hamlets that must bear some awful weather when the storms roll in.
Got to the Skyline Trail for mid afternoon and, for once, enjoyed the crowds which stopped the ‘are there coyotes here?’ worries. It takes 45 minutes brisk walk to get to the (in)famous boardwalk views over the Atlantic. Timed it so we finished just as the first rainfall of the trip started.
Drove the rest of the Cabot Trail, left the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Worth noting that for every night you stay in the Park you’ll need a permit, available from the visitor centres at Ingonish (and other places). Cost $18 for 2 nights for us.
Drove to Chéticamp where we were staying for our penultimate night. Wife ate a full lobster and was happy. We stayed the night at a cabin on the beach but had to forgo a dip in the sea given the torrential rain. Watched Shazam! on Netflix and ate crisps instead.
Day 16 — Antigonish, Clam Harbour and Halifax
On the road for 7.30am for the longest day of driving. We avoided the main highways as much as possible on the trip, using trunk roads and smaller roads to avoid traffic and to see more. It worked well, but meant a 4.5 hour day of driving.
Stopped for a quick breakfast back in Antigonish which was about a third of the way. Then took the 7 trunk road all the way back to Halifax, stopping at Clam Harbour for a dip in the surprisingly much-colder sea before dropping the hire car back.
Checked back into the same hotel as at the start of the trip and went straight back to the waterfront and The Wave. Ate a final meal at The Stubborn Goat pub and went back to pack.
Day 17 — Homeward bound
Breakfast. Taxi to airport. Flight home. Gutted to be leaving but know we’ll be back to Nova Scotia in the not-too-distant future ❤️ 🇨🇦
