A Cycle To My Favourite Historical Town — Lukang Township
Why it felt like I was cycling through time itself
30th June 2024
Lukang, an old town nestled on the coast of the Taiwan Strait, is a gem in Taiwan’s tourism industry. Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, Lukang thrived as a bustling seaport town. However, the silting of the harbour and the town’s refusal to allow a railway to pass through led to a decline in trade.
While this decision resulted in a downturn, it also had its advantages. Unlike Tainan and Taipei, which sacrificed many of their historical buildings for modernisation, Lukang retained its original charm. As you journey through Taiwan, where cities and towns often appear quite similar, Lukang stands out with its unique and well-preserved heritage.
Just an hour after sunrise, I was already on the road, eager to reach Lukang before the influx of tourists. I longed to explore the town’s red-bricked alleyways and narrow lanes at my own pace. With determined energy, I cycled towards the town, a brisk forty-minute ride away. The countryside whizzed by as I followed road 142 into the heart of Lukang. This journey wasn’t initially planned; I had intended to head north to Da’an Beach. However, the warm night had left me sleepless, and I wasn’t up for the longer cycle.
The outskirts of Lukang are surprisingly modern, with industrial buildings, contemporary homes, and shopfronts sprawling around the town. At first glance, as you pass the welcome sign, you wouldn’t immediately think of Lukang as an old town.
My first port of call was Wenwu Temple. I usually avoid visiting multiple temples as they tend to blend into one another, but Wenwu Temple’s intriguing history and convenient location made it worth a visit. Upon arriving, I parked my bicycle beside its curved red wall. The scene was lively, with elderly locals gathered in the temple’s greenery, engaging in their morning exercises — a common sight at this time of day.
Music blared from their portable players as they twisted their hips and stretched their arms skyward, resembling upward punches. It’s a reminder that keeping your joints moving is essential.
Wenwu Temple is a unique three-in-one site, featuring a temple, a shrine, and an academy. Established in 1812, it boasts a magnificent scale and was originally intended to advocate loyalty and martial arts among the youth. At one point, it was the most important academy in all of Taiwan for both civil and military education.
The shrine is dedicated to Wenchang Dijun (the God of Culture and Literature).
As I wandered through the courtyard and rooms of Wenwu Temple, the history seemed to come alive. Standing in one of the classrooms, I could imagine myself as an educator from a bygone era, teaching there. Of course, it is vastly different from my modern teaching standards, which include a whiteboard, a huge television, and air conditioning.
Everywhere I turned, elderly locals were moving their limbs to the music, each glancing at me as I moved from one spot to another. I felt like an intruder, yet not unwelcome. Everyone is invited to explore these historic grounds.
Here are some pictures:
After finishing my visit to the temple, I hopped back onto my bike and followed the road signs towards the town centre. The roads were busy with cars, which is quite normal along the congested main roads of Taiwan. Comparing the main road in Lukang to one in Changhua City, I’d say Lukang’s is more interesting, as many of its older buildings have withstood the test of time.
Much of the architecture dates back to the Japanese era, featuring charming two-storey buildings with occasional whimsical designs etched into the brickwork. It’s striking how much more aesthetically pleasing these old buildings are compared to the cheap, tacky structures built today. It seems as though we’ve sacrificed beauty for convenience.
What made cycling around Lukang especially interesting were the numerous old lanes that snake through the town. Some of these lanes are so old that, if you imagine the parked scooters weren’t there, it would feel like stepping back in time. I relished cycling through them, enjoying the tranquillity of the town before the tourists arrived. It was a unique opportunity to experience these quiet, historic places all to myself, zipping by on my bicycle.
Emerging from one of the lanes, a building caught my eye as it didn’t seem to blend with the rest of the town. Yes, it was old, but while many of Lukang’s structures are small and crumbling, this building stood out as somewhat majestic. Today, it is the Lukang Arts and Folk Museum. I had visited before but not on this occasion, as I was too early. The museum was once the home of the Koo Hsien-jung family, who began constructing it in 1913 and completed it in 1919. This particularly wealthy family wielded considerable influence in the Lukang area.
In the 1920s and 1930s, the building became a venue for international conferences with foreign dignitaries. Finally, in 1973, it was transformed into the Lukang Folk Museum. Everything inside, from household and travel items to recreational and religious artefacts, has been donated by the Koo family and other private benefactors. It is a fascinating place to spend some time, and perhaps one day, I will write a more in-depth blog about it.
My next stop was Chinsheng Lane. One feature that stood out to me was the elevated corridor known as Shih Yih Hall, which in former times was the hangout of Lukang’s literati. They would gather there to recite poetry and indulge in alcoholic revelry — a scene that sounds quite delightful to me.
Additionally, there was Shiyilou, the remaining buildings of the largest ancient Amoy-Taiwan Trading Company, Qingchang Hao. Nearby is also a gun tower that functioned as street fortifications. The term “Shiyi” refers to the ancient pleasures of Qin, board games, poems, wine, painting, flowers, the moon, chess, tobacco, and tea. Essentially, it was a place where poets and writers would gather in times past.
Emerging from the other end of the lane, the sound of my bike echoing off the narrow walls around me, I found myself in the midst of a bustling morning street market. My bike nearly collided with a woman stacking lumps of pork in boxes, the distinct parts of a pig on display.
Most of the stalls were run by local farmers, offering a vibrant array of freshly grown fruit and vegetables that brought a splash of colour to the road. I twisted and turned my bike through the crowd and traffic. In Taiwan’s markets, cyclists must keep their eyes ahead, as people often ride their scooters as if they are walking, moving very slowly while gazing at the stalls. A moment’s distraction could lead to bumping into the back of one and falling off your bike. It’s just one of the little frustrations of cycling in Taiwan’s busy areas.
Squeezing through the market, dodging whizzing scooters and countless people not watching where they were going, I eventually made it to my final destination: Lukang’s Old Street.
Lukang’s Old Street runs through the heart of the town. Normally teeming with crowds exploring its historic walls and shopping at the countless stalls lining the sides, I had the rare chance to experience it before the hustle and bustle began. The street was so quiet that I saw only a handful of people, mostly local residents. I relished this solitude, allowing me to ride my bike down the street, zooming past the old buildings as my tyres bounced on the tiles, with no one in my way.
I found I could appreciate the street much more without the usual crowd. When it’s busy, you hardly notice how old the place is; your eyes are too busy searching for your next purchase, whether it be the long milk-flavoured ice creams seen at every street market here, or the pointless toys that break or get lost in a few days.
The old street has preserved its traditional architecture well, featuring intricate temples, old-time shops, and a wide selection of Taiwanese delicacies, including oyster omelettes, shrimp balls, taro cakes, and meat buns. Along the street, you can find old houses and shop fronts, slightly renovated to keep the place looking presentable.
Once a bustling port town under the Qing Dynasty from the 1600s up until the Japanese occupation in 1895, Lukang’s Old Street has always been the town’s lifeline. It was where people made their money and sold items either from Taiwan or abroad. I could imagine traders walking this very street, searching for items to ship back to China or anywhere else in the world. During the Dutch Colonial Period, Lukang, which literally translates to ‘Deer Harbour,’ was known for selling deer skin.
I wonder why it stopped being the hub once the Japanese arrived. That’s all I know about Old Street, so here are some photos to give you an understanding of its beauty. It is definitely one of my favourite places to visit — anything old brings out my nerdy side.
At the end of my little trip into the past, I sat at the edge of the old street and rested for a while. It wasn’t that I was aching from the ride; I was just plain old tired. Having had little sleep the previous night, I was eager to find some much-needed energy — mainly in the form of coffee.
As I sat under a shelter, I felt a sprinkle of water touch my bike. The next thing I knew, a drizzle had fallen upon the town. It was strangely beautiful. I leaned back against the wall and watched the rain fall as the sun continued to rise. There is something about rain falling when it is sunny that always puts a smile on my face.
It reminded me of the song “Have You Ever Seen the Rain Coming Down on a Sunny Day?” by Creedence Clearwater Revival from the 1970s. I began to sing softly, not realising that an old man in a nearby stall was listening. I didn’t go shy; I simply waited for the rain to pause and then approached him.
He was selling these little cakes, I couldn’t remember the name of them. They were very bready but packed with sweetness. I bought two and returned to my sitting spot before the heavens opened once again, happily munching on them and feeling the energy flow back into my veins. The elderly man who served me stepped out for a cigarette. I raised a hand with a smile and a nod, and he smiled back before lighting up and turning away.
Before long, I was back on the move. My search for a coffee shop led me only to the ubiquitous chain bakeries, 85°C, which are like the McDonald’s of coffee instead of burgers. They are everywhere. I wanted to find somewhere more independent, but every place I passed wasn’t opening for another two hours.
That’s one of the little frustrations about Taiwan: many shops, cafes, and restaurants don’t open until the afternoon. I got my drink from the counter (after an elderly person pushed in front of me, something that happens quite often here). I sat at my table, watching the world go by, feeling the warm sun and breeze on my skin once again. I called my wife to tell her where I was, as I don’t normally mention it when she’s asleep. I’m sure she’s used to my quirky habit of disappearing and showing up in random places by now.
As I reflected on what I had seen, I decided that this impromptu trip to Lukang was a better option than cycling to the beach, even though I had really wanted to go for a swim. I listened to the chatter of the elderly and the rumble of scooter engines before finally deciding it was time to head home. I powered back to Changhua in just under an hour, arriving just in time for another coffee at home before my wife woke up.
As I cycled through Changhua City, I couldn’t help but think about how much more beautiful it would be if Changhua had preserved its historical roads. But I suppose time always marches on.
I haven’t yet decided on my next adventure, but whatever it is, I look forward to sharing it with you.
