CM Ranch in Dubois, WY, Will Get in Your Blood — Keep Calling You Back
If the allure of the Wild West, with its wide open spaces and wrangling cowboys has ever beckoned to you as it has to me, answer that call and spend a week at the CM ranch in Dubois, WY, one of the oldest guest ranches in the country.
You’ll swear you have stepped back in time as you enter this pristine and secluded mountain valley retreat surrounded by the Wind River mountain range and rugged, orange tinged Badlands.
The ranch has a long history that dates back to 1906, when Charles Moore began taking boys on pack trips into Yellowstone for ten weeks. These trips were so successful that round 1920, Moore bought the current CM property, built cabins, and the rest is history. Current owners, the Kemmerer family, purchased the ranch in 1997.
I was introduced to the ranch by my friend Gail, who as a child visited with her family and who later at 19, spent the summer working in the kitchen, and, like many of the guests I’ve met, keeps coming back. This was my second trip, and I’ve joined the ranks of my fellow enthusiasts.
The week’s magic begins Sunday afternoon with a 4:00–6:00pm check-in. When the four of us arrived, we were greeted by four young staff members of the maintenance crew. After introductions, they politely carried our bags to hill #2, a beautifully appointed 2 bedroom, 2 bath log cabin smelling wonderfully of cedarwood thanks to the careful attention of head housekeeper, Becky and her crew. Comfortable seating on the open porch has become our favorite place to relax and soak up the scenery, but you can literally enjoy a soak in the hot tub or take a swim in the pool nearby.
The dinner bell rings at 6:30 for guests, and cooked-to-perfection prime rib is the opening meal. Mollie and Hunter Sullivan, the affable ranch managers for the last fourteen years, welcomed us and had us introduce ourselves and then several members of the young crew introduced themselves. I don’t know how she does it, but Mollie manages to hire the most engaging bunch of young people from all over the country each year who not only take pride in their work but are also genuinely friendly and interested in knowing the guests.
Unlike most ranches, CM encourages this exchange and it is one of the most memorable aspects of the ranch experience. I couldn’t imagine a better crew than last year, yet this group was just as terrific, and, honestly, who doesn’t like to be around the happy, brightly charged energy of young people?
Another highlight favored by many is just showing up for the three scrumptious meals served each day. The entire kitchen staff was new this year, and they didn’t disappoint. Even our vegetarian and picky pescatarian (dubbed pestcatarion by us friends!) were satisfied with seafood and inventive meatless dishes. A fan of healthy salads, they magically appeared at lunch and dinner with freshly home made dressings.
Well fueled again at Monday breakfast, we headed to the barn, first to pick out a pair of western boots and cowboy hat, then on to the corral to meet our horses and have our saddles fitted for the week. Since we do little to no riding during the year, we opted again this time for a two hour lesson with head wrangler, Tori, to go over basics before the afternoon trail ride.
No need to worry if you are a beginner as these horses are well trained and sure footed. I heard more than once from wranglers how well taken care of the horses are, and this was evident as four equine massage therapists were visiting to work on the horses while we were there. Strips of brightly colored tape positioned on flanks and shoulders of many horses in the pasture indicated where work had been done. (Human massage is available at the ranch as well.)
Monday night the ranch puts on a cocktail party before dinner allowing guests and staff to mingle. This is the only event where alcohol is served during the week, but guests are allowed to bring spirits to dinner at night.
In addition to riding, I recommend taking advantage of the exceptional hiking trips offered. View the Native American Petroglyphs at the base of the Wind River Range, a short drive and easy hike.
This year I added the Badlands hike, and our knowledgeable guide, John pointed out various animal tracks and identified the many native wild flowers in bloom. Highly recommended is the moderately challenging and dog friendly, five mile Lake Louise trek in Shoshone Nation National park, also close by.
Three of us opted for a fly fishing trip this year. Since this was opening week at the ranch with fewer guests, our guide Sarah gave us a quick casting lesson the night before on the lawn, and then the next day we headed out to Trail Lake outfitted like pros. No fish were caught, but I have to say I’m hooked.
There’s plenty of night life at the ranch and close by in town as well. Tuesday square dancing, a tradition for the past 70 years, at the Rustic Pine Tavern is a must. There is always a full house of all ages and abilities. The caller and his wife who handles the music are both in their 80’s spinning and calling for over 30 years. To get you ready, the ranch brings in Adrianna from town for a lesson in the Round UP room, so shake a leg and leave your inhibitions behind.
Wednesday night after dinner at the ranch there is local live music on the deck, followed by an astronomy lesson of the night skies with gifted teacher, Tom. Friday night dinner is at 6:00 so guests can attend the Dubois, family friendly Friday night rodeo. So much to do…
Or not do. Simply stay behind any afternoon and reflect on your good fortune of being in such a tranquil, timeless environment that somehow both stirs and calms the heart. Relish the quiet punctuated only by a sudden gust of wind that carries with it the magical notes of a far off whinny.
And then, too suddenly, reality startles you with a tap on the shoulder announcing that the week is drawing to a close: It’s Saturday. The morning fun begins with a team penning challenge (a timed event moving three steers out of seven into a pen on the opposite side of the corral), followed by an afternoon ride or hike, and the day culminates that evening with a steak cookout for guests and staff. Due to high winds, the party, normally off site, was comfortably held at the ranch.
This is a particularly bitter sweet time, as strong friendships have formed over the week. Music and cowboy poetry performed by Johnny, a former wrangler at the ranch, sweeten the atmosphere even more. CM is not only the perfect couples, group, or family vacation with the kids, it is also a great destination for solo travelers as well.
Check out is Sunday morning at 10:00am, but long after, the memories will linger and beckon you back, recalling both a lightness in your step and swagger in your walk.
In her book The Solace of Open Spaces, lyrical essays that capture living in Wyoming, author Gretel Ehrlich writes:
The name Wyoming comes from the Indian word meaning “at the great plains,” but the plains are really valleys, great arid valleys sixteen hundred square miles, with the horizon bending up on all sides into mountain ranges. This gives the vastness a sheltering look.
So take a step back in time and shelter yourself from the stresses of the modern world.
Breathe in deeply, exhale, and be restored.
