Hiking Mount Doom
I hiked Mount Doom in January 2023. Or rather Mount Ngauruhoe. It was used in The Lord of the Rings films as a stand-in for Mount Doom. Dressed up with effects.
Mount Ngauruhoe is an active volcano on the North Island of New Zealand in the Tongariro National Park (oldest national park in New Zealand and a UNESCO World Heritage Site).
I was at the start of an open-ended trip around the world and was staying in Wellington for seven weeks in a studio on the south coast in Island Bay. A base from which to explore the rest of the country. I’d already taken a few trips — a week in Queenstown and surrounding areas on the South Island and another trip to Nelson and Abel Tasman via ferry. Now it was time to explore the North Island.
You really need a car to do properly and I wasn’t a very experienced driver. Lifelong Londoner and learned to drive late, then left it even later to build confidence. This would be my second time doing a multi-day car hire, the first had been a few days on the South Island. Prior to that I’d only used car sharing schemes for day trips from London and rarely driven a full day. South Island had gone well, the winding mountain passes had been great practice.
For this trip I had a light blue Toyota Corolla which I’d picked up from a rental company in Wellington, making sure to take out full coverage. Always a good idea.
I set out from Wellington early, going slowly down the steep hill I was staying on top of and then onto the motorway and out of the city, heading north. I was going to Tongariro National Park with plenty of stops planned along the way so it was going to take longer than the four hours Google Maps was projecting. A distance of about 320 km or 200 miles.
The weather was good, it was summer and once out of the city the roads were mostly clear. I took it easy. No rush and no need to overtake.
Stopped off in Palmerston North for lunch and to take a peek at the Te Marae o Hine carvings a friend had recommended. I was deeply fascinated by all things Māori.
Then off again with another stop in the afternoon at a random town I didn’t know anything about, not even its name. Just a quick break to stretch my legs. Found myself in a strange almost Wild West-esque frontier town with no one around. It almost felt like a film set. A quick wander and I get underway again. I’ve since found out the town was Mangaweka and many other kiwis I spoke to later didn’t know it either. Population 90.
A couple more little stops on the way to get photos when I got a glimpse of Mount Tongariro in the distance.
Early evening I got into the national park itself and the YHA hostel. I’d booked a private room for one night (with a shared bathroom). My dorm days were long over. I settled in and then went to the common area and chatted to the mostly younger crowd who were all there for the same hike. A few young Brits complaining about the price of beer in New Zealand. Made a good friend there too and we’re still in touch.
I retired early, there was a funeral service livestream I had to join — my best friend and his partner had lost their baby and it was jarring to be in the middle of a national park on the other side of the planet and watching this (with a 13 hour time difference). I watched. An utterly strange and isolating experience. Sent a few messages and then went to bed. It would be an early start the next morning.
The walk I was going to do was the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. 20 km with two steep climbs, the highest point being the Red Crater at 1868 m / 6128 ft above sea level. It’s well maintained but the challenge level varies depending on weather. In summer with dry weather a reasonably fit person will manage it just fine.
There are several ways to get to the start point for the hike and I’d opted for the shuttle service. You drive your car and park it at the end point and the shuttle bus takes you quickly to the start of the hike. Then you just walk until you get back to the car park.
So I set off in the morning and everything went as planned. Parked the car, got on the shuttle with a group of people and was at the start point ready for a day of epic hiking!
As I started walking I played the fellowship theme from The Lord of the Rings soundtrack on my phone to which several people cheered and clapped. A bit of crowd pleasing goes a long way.
The walk starts flat and is very gentle.
There are information signs periodically along the way. Here’s one mentioning the most recent eruption in 1977 with an ominous note at the end.
Before the halfway point and the peak you’re met with this stern warning — to continue on or to turn back. Depending on your physical condition and the weather this is something to be taken seriously. In my case I was fine even without a Sam Gamgee to carry me up the last of the way. Besides, I’d forgotten to bring the ring!
From here on the really spectacular vistas open up.
And then you get into the Red Crater which feels like being on the surface of Mars. It’s truly incredible. Wisps of volcanic steam from vents are visible and the air is strong with the smell of sulphur.
Then you summit the peak and it’s all downhill after that.
Just a friendly reminder in case you forget you’re hiking through an active volcano!
Going down from the peak is difficult to start with because of all the gravel and steepness of the descent. A good pair of walking boots or shoes are needed, although I saw one or two people in Converse trainers. It’s very slippery and digging your heels in and shifting your weight back is important. Make sure your heel sinks deep and digs in with each step. Slow steady going. I did see some spry trail runner types skipping down very fast, almost with Legolas elven grace. Good for them but no thanks. I was taking my time and taking in the views.
As you go down it’s hard to keep your eyes off the emerald and turquoise volcanic lakes opening up before you. Stunning and clear. A perfect spot to stop for a break and lunch. I’d taken plenty of protein bars and other snacks as well as water.
The descent becomes more gradual after this and the rest is relatively easy.
You can sneak a peek at Lake Taupō in the distance.
And that was it. I did it in about seven hours and it was late afternoon when I finished. I got back to the car park feeling great and not all that tired. It had been one of the most beautiful hikes I’d ever done with some nice chats along the way. The volcano hadn’t erupted which was a bonus! Sure, I could’ve just taken the eagles (no the fellowship couldn’t have done that, it was a mission of secrecy. Don’t fight me on this one).
I forgot to use Strava but my steps were recorded by the Health app on my iPhone clocking in around 33,000.
As I got in the car and sat there for a few moments, about to drive back to the hostel, I suddenly remembered the youngsters complaining about the price of beer. Feeling jubilant and generous, I decided I wanted to celebrate. So I looked up the closest supermarket, a New World (big chain in New Zealand) and headed for the one in Turangi about 40 minutes away. I got caught in a freak torrential downpour (never driven in heavy rain before!) but made it in one piece. I bought a few cases of beer and cider, loaded them in the back of the car and drove back to the hostel.
Imagining myself a bit like Aragorn returning to Helm’s Deep in The Two Towers after everyone assumed he’d died (only the film version) and throwing open the doors.
Walked to the tables and dropped the beers and ciders with a heavy thud. Everyone turned. I gestured. And there was much mirth and merriment.
It made me feel good to be able to do that. I remembered my own travels on a shoestring and staying in hostels, experiencing the kindness of mysterious strangers being generous with beer. If you can’t pay it back, pay it forward.
I didn’t stay up late and only had a couple of ciders. Bed by 10pm. I had other places to visit in the area the next day.
Here’s some photos of the next day at Rotorua, Taupō, and then the day after the slow drive back south to Wellington — with a stop at Tawhai Falls, or Gollum’s Pool from The Two Towers (I didn’t catch a fish with my bare hands but I did meet an extra from the films).
My next road trip wouldn’t be for a few months, until I was in Melbourne, and it wouldn’t go as well but still ended up being an adventure. Everything is an adventure.
