How I Found Peace and Enlightenment at Sun Moon Lake
Three days of cycling and exploring in Taiwan
I spent three weeks in Taiwan between the end of 2023 and the start of 2024. It ended up being one of my favourite places in the world. I hadn’t gone with any expectations and knew only a little beforehand — geopolitics, semiconductors and bubble tea.
I also didn’t know just how beautiful the island nation was. The Portuguese literally named it that, “Formosa.” Taiwan Today:
Taiwan was even invaded by the French late in the 19th century, and was “discovered” for the West by the mariners of Portugal, who gave it another name — Ilha Formosa, or “beautiful island”.
At just over half the size of Scotland, it’s dense with a population of 23 million. Human history that stretches back thousands of years. Indigenous peoples who adventured, explored and settled Austronesian and Polynesian islands, some ultimately becoming the Māori of New Zealand. An anthropological full circle for me, I’d started my travels a year before in New Zealand.
Multiple waves of migration and colonisation. Mainland China, Portuguese, Dutch and Japanese. The twentieth century “Two Chinas” issue — depending on who you speak to, Taiwan is either the “real China” or a breakaway territory of China. Tense to this day, it’s a small country with 100,000+ air raid shelters!
Migration, colonisation, occupation, civil war. Ethnicities, cultures, legacies. Taiwan is complicated and complex.
It is also safe and clean. The people are warm and welcoming. Some of the friendliest and most helpful people I’ve met in all my travels. High tech and easy too, with Japanese influenced convenience culture (Family Mart stores abound) and bullet trains.
I’d made my way around Taiwan clockwise. From the capital Taipei (after a short flight from Hong Kong) to Hualien, then Taitung, Kaohsiung, Tainan, Taichung and finally back to Taipei. Travelling by train, on the west coast Taiwan High Speed Rail operates bullet trains running at 300 km/hour! Clean, reliable, fast and affordable (around £10 for some 200 km journeys). The regular trains on the east coast are also good. I’d already been to Japan but this still impressed me. Coming from the UK it’s not hard to be impressed.
It’s also possible to go around the whole country by bike. Next time!
I’d taken a few side trips. From Kaohsiung to the tiny island of Liuqiu for some diving (newly certified diver). And my almost three day excursion to Sun Moon Lake, which for me was the most beautiful part of the “beautiful island.”
I’d heard Sun Moon Lake was stunning and needed a break from cities. It’s an hour away from Taichung (second biggest city) with a regular shuttle bus from the main train and bus stations. I’d booked a return ticket online and collected it at the central station, only to find it was just a preloaded EasyCard (public transit card). I had one already so could have just topped it up. Either way, it worked out to about £6. Taiwan is very affordable, especially outside of Taipei.
I got the bus from Nantou Bus Gancheng Station, the central bus station near the main train station, looking up the route map and timetable ahead of time. This would also work for anyone coming directly from Taipei, as the high speed rail takes less than 90 minutes to Taichung. I was already in Taichung and had spent the day before exploring the city.
I headed out to the bus stop in the morning and the bus arrived as scheduled. No surprises. The public transport service in Taiwan is exceptional.
A scenic bus journey and before I knew it, I was there, in the northwestern part of Sun Moon Lake, the Shuishe pier and town. A popular tourist destination with many shops and restaurants.
I’d booked a room in a homestay, a few minutes’ walk from where the bus stops. The hosts were lovely and welcoming. They clearly had a thing for Studio Ghibli and Totoro.
There’s a lot of love for Japan in Taiwan. Taiwan was one of the largest contributors to aid relief to Japan after the Tōhoku earthquake of 2011. The feeling goes both ways based on conversations I’ve had in both places.
I settled in with all my Totoro neighbours and then went down to the bike rental shop which was in the same building as the homestay. It costs around £5 for a bike for the day. I’d got there around noon and there was plenty of day left, so I set off to explore and get my first look at the lake.
Day one
Sun Moon Lake is located in Yuchi Township, Nantou County. It’s 33 km or 20 miles to walk or cycle around the lake and there are plenty of trails for both. It’s a popular destination especially for Taiwanese tourists.
A regular ferry runs every 30 minutes between Shuishe and Ita Thao, the northern and southern towns. Either is a great place to stay. I’d picked Shuishe just because it was closer to Taichung.
The area around the lake is home to the Thao people, one of the indigenous groups of Taiwan with their own language and customs. A population only numbering 800 now.
I learned it’s called “Sun Moon Lake” because the small Lalu island in the middle separates the lake into a crescent moon shaped part and another part shaped like the round sun. If I’m being honest, I had a hard time seeing it! A bit of a geographic Rorschach test.
I headed out east, clockwise, around the lake. There are well maintained cycle paths but also spots where the road must be shared with cars. That wasn’t a problem. Road users in Taiwan are generally well behaved and the roads themselves are very well maintained.
I was already comfortable cycling around the larger cities using the YouBike cycle hire scheme without any issues. It was much quieter around the lake and there were many cycle tour groups.
After cycling for a short while, I came to Wenwu Temple and “The Year of Steps.” 366 steps (with leap day) each marked with a day of the year. The temple is at the top of the steps.
I took my time climbing up, trying to get some photos of steps marked with friend’s birthdays and messaging them. It seemed like a thoughtful thing to do.
The temple itself is big and well worth exploring. Some very cute turtle statues around too.
In Buddhism, turtles represent eternity and the continuation of life. A flat Earth is said to be carried on the back of a turtle, which in turn rests on the back of a larger turtle, which rests on the back of an even larger turtle… It’s turtles all the way down!
Inside the temple, there was also a section devoted to a “matchmaker god.” I didn’t risk it!
Off again on the bike to my next stop, the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway, or cable car, for some stunning views of the lake and surrounding mountains. The multicoloured cars make for quite a sight!
The ropeway goes to the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village which I did not have time to do, unfortunately.
So I went to the other side and then back again after a short stop for tea. It was well worth the ride.
Then onto Ita Thao, the southern town and pier. A little exploration of the town and taking in a traditional dance ceremony, then the ferry back to Shuishe. I was able to take the bike on the ferry!
I crossed back as the sun was setting. It had been about 10 km of cycling at a leisurely pace around the eastern side of the lake.
Finished up the day at a nice local restaurant for some fresh fish and a quiet evening. As with everywhere else, staff are friendly and helpful.
Most people outside Taipei don’t speak English but will readily take their phone out and translate.
Food tends to be fresh and local in these parts, and vegetarians shouldn’t have any problems. I was going mostly vegetarian at the time due to some health concerns.
It had been a full day! I’d only arrived from Taichung earlier that day and then spent the rest of it going halfway around the lake. So an early night for me with my neighbours Totoro.
Day two
The next day, after breakfast (I’d stocked up on sandwiches and fruit from the local convenience store) I decided to cycle around the lake. 33 km or 20 miles.
I rented the same bike again and the friendly and helpful shop owner warned me it would be hilly and challenging around the southwestern part of the lake, with no clear bike trails. So I decided to tackle that first, going westwards or anti-clockwise this time. I could make my way around to Ita Thao and either get the ferry back like before or continue all the way around, depending on how I felt.
It was a sunny morning as I set off, with temperatures ranging from 20 to 25° C (68–77° F). Ideal and not too hot for walking or cycling.
After a short while, I came to Longfeng Temple which had truly impressive views looking out over the lake and mountains. It was still early morning and quiet. I seemed to be the only one there. There is a certain peace and calm to be found in these spiritual places. Alone yet not lonely, the very definition of solitude.
I took my time and walked around and then sat for a little while to read my book. Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience (Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi). It talks about being in a state of “flow” and losing self-consciousness, but not self-awareness. Something that seemed to fit the theme of my thoughts by that temple.
Next stop is Xiangshan Visitor Center, with its futuristic design by Norohiki Dan. Futuristic yet also working in harmony with the surroundings. It put me in mind of some sort of spaceport in a far flung future utopia. Maybe one of the “Spacer” worlds Isaac Asimov describes in his books The Caves of Steel, The Naked Sun, and others.
I wandered around and came across a gallery and exhibition showcasing indigenous art and relics. There is a sense of integration and connectedness to Taiwan’s rich heritage focused in this area, more so than I’d felt in any of the cities.
It was also a pit stop for some excellent matcha ice cream with a huge chunk of matcha stuck on top. That perked me up.
Then it got tricky the rest of the way to Ita Thao. Google Maps wasn’t showing a cycling route but there was a walkable path. Hilly, a few occasions when I had to take a break from cycling and walk the bike uphill. A few wrong turns, especially when I ended up on Provincial Highway 21 heading southwest and away from the lake.
Helpful drivers gave me directions, actually slowing and stopping without any prompting from me.
After what seemed like a long time and a bit of uphill effort, I arrived at Xuanguang Temple, reached by climbing steps. Getting to the top and looking around, I found some monks performing a tea ceremony and decided to sit with them. I was served tea and they taught me a chant. They gave me some fruit to eat too. They didn’t ask for anything in return. This was just what I needed, a break.
But it was more. I wouldn’t describe myself as a “spiritual” person but there was something about this simple ceremony. The human connection. The kindness. It affected me deeply and has stayed with me. Maybe some combination of endorphins from cycling and climbing with dopamine and a feeling of elation… and yet more. I won’t try to rationalise it. It was a singular moment of peace and tranquillity.
I was simply present.
“Enlightenment” is as good a word as any.
I set forth again, refreshed and re-energised in mind and body.
My next stop was only a short distance away, the Ci En Pagoda. A long climb from the car park where I left the bike, 954 metre/3,130 ft, but worth it.
More climbing inside the pagoda, but again worth it for the views. Inside it all starts to get a bit MC Escher.
A little stop at Xuanzang Temple after the pagoda and I was pretty much done for the day.
It was late afternoon when I got into Ita Thao. Decision time: ferry or cycle the rest of the way back? After the hilly cycling, wrong turns and all the steps, I still wasn’t tired. Thanks to the kind monks. It was only another 10 km or so the rest of the way, the reverse of the route from the day before.
So I pressed on, racing the sun.
I made it back into Shuishe early evening, returned the bike, showered and headed out for dinner. I followed along with the election coverage over dinner. The presidential election had been that day. Results were coming in.
Day three
My last day at Sun Moon Lake wasn’t a full one. I’d given myself enough time to go for a run in the morning before checking out from the homestay. It was my first run in over a month. I’d had a minor quad strain and also a severe gout attack.
So a gentle 5 km westwards, to the Shuishe Dam and back. It was very quiet on that Sunday morning and this was a perfect way to get back to running rather than in a busy city where I’d struggle to find a trail or park and have to dodge traffic and pedestrians. I’d been running three times a week consistently while on the road.
No sign of the quad strain, fully recovered from the gout and running with stunning views out over the lake. I came back into Shuishe feeling incredible and with a broad manic grin on my face.
Then it was time to check out and get the bus back to Taichung. I’d be going straight from there to Taipei for my last couple of days in Taiwan before flying 14 hours to New York. So the almost three days spent at Sun Moon Lake were a perfect holiday… from my holiday. Not that I can call any of what I was doing a holiday, it was simply my way of life at that point.
A short walk to the bus stop. Then into Taichung’s High Speed Rail station and a superfast ride to Taipei.
I’ve thought about Sun Moon Lake many times since. It was truly one of the most beautiful and tranquil places I’ve ever visited. I could easily have spent more time there. So many things to see and explore. So much to learn. So many spots to just stop and relax.
It has an ethereal, almost otherworldly quality to it.
I will return. I find the peace and enlightenment fading a little and will need a top up. Of that delicious tea too. With the monks.
Sun Moon Lake is beautiful. Taiwan is beautiful. And so are its people.
Thank you for the gift of your precious time.
