How to Conquer Mt. Whitney in a Day?

A step-by-step guide

Prashant Tiwari
ENGAGE
13 min readAug 10, 2024

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All photos from the author’s portfolio

Rightfully, I learned a lot about myself while hiking and preparing for the Mt Whitney day hike, and hope this story helps future hikers. Thank you for taking the time to read!

In addition to sharing my own experiences, I am also sharing a few tips for future Mt Whitney day hikers by dividing the Whitney trail into 4 segments with dedicated tips. Many suggestions should be valid for overnight campers also.

My quote for all hikers is — “Whitney day hike is doable & fun”.

Day Hike vs Overnight Camping Dilemma

Mt. Whitney being the highest peak in the contiguous USA is on the bucket list for many people and so was mine for a very long time. However, the dilemma remains whether to scale Mt Whitney in a day or overnight camping, as 23 miles 23-mile-long hike with 6700+ ft elevation gain and low oxygen atmosphere at 14000+ ft altitude is no joke. However, the logistics of planning an overnight camping in primitive wilderness with no restrooms or water and carrying a 30–40 lb backpack for 2–3 days is no joke either. After much consideration, the merits of a day hike outweighed the overnight camping option for us.

To our luck, a close friend won the open season day hike lottery permit for a group of five and our preparation started to take shape. August 1, 2024 (Thursday) was our lucky D-day.

How to get a Mt. Whitney hike permit?

Most people apply for open season lottery permits which open every year between Feb 1 to Mar 1. These applications are NOT first come first basis hence you have about a month to strategize and change your application — this is what we did as part of a group. Authorities collect all lottery applications on Mar 1st and declare final winners on Mar 15th every year.

Link: https://www.recreation.gov/permits/445860

Even if someone is not lucky with the open season lottery, there is an active Facebook community where folks often auction or give away their permits. All in all, finding a slot to hike Mt Whitney is not as hard as I earlier thought.

Finding a place to stay

Whitney Portal is where the Mt Whitney trailhead begins. Although there are plenty of tent and family camping options there, our group opted for the comfort of an AirBnB at Lone Pine, CA. It is the closest city to the trailhead and just 15 15-minute drive from the trailhead.

After some searching, we ended up finding a cute little mobile home facing the majestic mountain. We decided to arrive two days early to give us enough time to explore the location and also acclimatize to the terrain and height, this ended up being a very helpful decision for us which I will describe later.

Preparation time — March to August 2024

Having won the open season permit in March 2024, we felt we had enough time between March to August to prepare for the big hike. After seeking a lot of wisdom, we made a list of hikes we could accomplish before attempting Whitney. We paid careful attention to mixing long-distance training hikes to build endurance and also attempting high-altitude hikes, to understand the effect of low oxygen on our body due to high altitude.

These are just a few selected hikes we did to train ourselves:

  1. Mission Peak (6 miles, 2497 ft altitude) — multiple times
  2. Berryessa Peak (14.5 miles, 3041 ft altitude)
  3. Mt Sizer (12.8 miles, 3274 ft altitude)
  4. Rose Peak (19.1 miles, 3816 ft altitude)
  5. Mt Diablo (12.5 miles, 3849 ft altitude)
  6. Clouds Rest (19 miles, 9935 ft altitude)
  7. Matterhorn Peak (12.7 miles, 12281 ft altitude) — 50% due to bad weather
  8. Excelsior Mountain (8.8 miles, 12438 ft altitude)

Although most of the above hikes went well, one particular hike to Matterhorn Peak will remain in the memory for a long time. Since myself and another friend were getting close to our Whitney hike date, we wanted to push ourselves hard and accomplish one more over 12k ft altitude, and decided to climb Matterhorn Peak in Yosemite. The mountain forecast showed a chance of mild showers and when we arrived at the base of the Matterhorn Peak, we saw a high concentration of black clouds and yet decided to climb the mountain. Unfortunately, when we were half way the weather turned ugly on us and it started to rain heavily with loud thunderstorms and we needed to take shelter. After much consideration, we decided to abort our hike to remain safe and returned home with mixed feelings. Although we did not finish the Matterhorn Peak hike, this experience was useful to learn many safety tips for future inclement weather.

Getting close to D-day — butterflies in the stomach

As the date for our Mt Whitney hike was approaching fast, as usual, a flood of emotions was pouring in — excitement, nervousness, the magnitude of the hike, fear of the unknown, self-doubt on readiness, thoughts like-will weather cooperate this time? how many of us will summit? etc etc …

One fellow hiker from our group said one day that she was unsure if she could do the whole hike. This doubt coming from an experienced hiker, increased my anxiety and self-doubts.

In any case, we all knew that we would be reaching the destination two days in advance and started focusing on packing the essentials and started comparing notes. We created a bare-minimum essential packing list and an advanced packing needed since Whitney is not an everyday hike.

My Absolute Minimum Packing list — carry on all hikes

  1. Day hike backpack — Osprey Daylite plus link
  2. Hiking shoes — Solomon X Ultra Waterproof link
  3. 2.5L water bladder — Hydrapak link
  4. Sunglasses
  5. Cap / Sun Hat
  6. A few Protein bars
  7. Battery pack — 40000mAh Power Bank link
  8. Multi-port charging cable — 4-in-1 Charging Cable link
  9. Rain jacket — based on the weather — REI Co-op Rain Jacket link

Advanced Packing List — Essential for high-altitude hikes (Mt Whitney)

  1. Hiking Poles (must)— Cascade Trekking Poles link
  2. Head Lamp & Hand Torch
  3. Two 1L collapsible water bottles — Survivor Bottles link
  4. Electrolytes powder — Ultima Electrolyte Drink Mix link
  5. Electrolytes chewy gummies — Bolt Energy Chews link
  6. Few Advil & Dramamine — in a zip lock for emergency
  7. Altitude sickness medication (Acetazolamide) — if prescribed & needed
  8. Bengay lotion
  9. Light winter jacket
  10. Extra pair of clothes & socks
  11. Gloves
  12. Beanie
  13. Wag bag — RESTOP Wilderness Kit link
  14. Wet wipes & Sanitizer
  15. Water Filter — Lifestraw Personal Water Filter link

💡USEFUL TIP : Carry at least 4.5–5 L of water, if you are like me who does not like to filter water from unknown sources. I carried 2.5L in water bladder and two 1L collapsible water bottles to save weight & Lifestraw filter for emergency

Getting Acclimatized for High Altitude

California Bay Area's average elevation is around 0 — 500 ft (Sea Level). Any hike above 8000 ft altitude needs special care and proper acclimatization, especially for folks living around the sea level. Between 8000 to 14000 ft effective oxygen level drops drastically. At 14000 ft oxygen is only 12% (as compared to 20.9% at sea level) which is just 57% of the human body's comfort level. This is equivalent to breathing with one nostril closed.

Since we reached Lone Pine, CA two days earlier, we decided to spend a few hours each day at the Whitney Portal trailhead which is at about 8300 ft altitude. This turned out to be very useful for us as we were able to explore the Whitney Portal store and make souvenir purchases, but also acclimatize our bodies. After exploring the Portal souvenir store, which is only open between 8 am to 9 pm, and spending a few hours at Whitney Portal, one fellow hiker and I decided to take a short 3-mile hike to get familiar with the beginning of Whitney trail, which turned out to be an excellent decision as we got to explore the start of the trail in broad daylight and enjoy the natural beauty. We were careful to attempt the hike very slowly to avoid over-exerting our bodies and be ready for the big day. We climbed 1.5 miles and around 600 ft of elevation gain one way, but our main goal was to spend enough time around 8300-9000 ft elevation, so our bodies were acclimatized enough. Whitney Portal also has a bag weighing station, which I found very useful and was surprised to find that my bag was already 25 lbs. even without any water, so I needed to trim down my bag weight.

We came back to our AirBnB around 6 pm and after readjusting my bag weight we all took an early nap for 4–5 hours and set an alarm for midnight. We all ensured that our hiking bags were ready to go after removing some nice-to-have items. I chose to remove my binoculars, some snack bars, and other items to save weight with no compromise on water.

Big Day — Big Hike

For ease of describing and helping future hikers with some recommendations, I divided the Mt Whitney trail into 4 segments. All 4 segments have distinct geography and different strategies are needed to help you with a successful day hike.

1. Whitney Portal to Outpost Camp (3.51 Miles, 2051 ft Elev Gain)

2. Outpost Camp to Trail Camp (2.03 Miles, 1604 ft Elev Gain)

3. Trail Camp to Trail Crest (99 switchbacks!) (1.89 Miles, 1640 ft Elev Gain)

4. Trail Crest to Whitney Summit (1.98 Miles, 1040 ft Elevation Gain)

Segment 1: Whitney Portal to Outpost Camp (3.51 miles, 2051 ft elev. gain)

💡USEFUL TIP : Consider starting as early as humanly possible and keeping good pace as you will be hiking mostly in the dark & with less breathing issues

Our efficiency was phenomenal. We all got up around midnight and were all ready to leave AirBnB by 12:45 am. Before every big hike, I prefer to take a shower to feel fresh and ready. We all were excited and reached the trailhead by 1:15 am. After customary group photos, we all started our hike at around 1:25 am.

Whitney Portal at night is designed to have minimal light to keep the natural feel. After hiking a few hundred meters we were well in the wilderness and saw one of the most beautiful night sky. We were lucky that the sky was completely clear with no clouds anywhere on the horizon. Moon was in the early phase, hence moonlight was also not that bright which enhanced the night sky beauty with all stars shining bright and we could get a glimpse of the Milky Way. We tried hard to capture some pictures but our phone cameras were simply not enough.

Our original goal was to keep a good pace till the first 5–6 miles to have enough time in hand but we underestimated the hike and the steep gain in height. We were behind our ambitious goal but still able to keep a steady pace with some longer breaks, to ensure everyone is around while it is dark. While it was dark, we all decided to stick together as we all were scared of wildlife. Within a few minutes, I saw two dark red eyes peering at me and my unconscious mind thought that I was getting face-to-face with a bear, but soon another hiker shouted “it's a deer” and I was relieved. I had my phone ready and able to capture video of full-size deer and it was very rewarding.

For a further few miles, we all decided to keep a steady pace. If this is your first time day hiking the Whitney trail, then there is a good chance that you will cover this segment in complete darkness, both up and down climbs.

Segment 2: Outpost Camp to Trail Camp (2.03 Miles, 1604 ft Elev Gain)

💡USEFUL TIP : Take a good break at the end of this segment (Trail camp) before starting 99 switchbacks

We made good progress and didn’t realize it was already 5 am and the sun was peering at the horizon and one of the most beautiful sights of the mountains. We looked around and captured some of the most beautiful views. Looking at various mountains, it is difficult to say which one is Mt. Whitney. For a few hours, we were mistakenly thinking a different peak from Mt. Whitney.

Many portions of this segment can be considered “relatively flatter” as compared to the other 3 segments. We walked through Output Camp in pitch dark and could see some scattered overnight tent campers. This part of the trail segment also has some nice lakes and waterfalls. Based on when you start the hike, there is a good chance you may hear the waterfalls but may not see them if it is pitch dark.

In this segment again you can keep a faster pace due to the relatively flatter sections around lakes and fewer breathing issues. Once you reach the Trail Camp area, likely, the sun will be fully out and you will likely witness the true grandeur of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Once you start seeing some overnight camping tents this means you reached the Trail Camp area. Soon after Trail Camp is the base of famous (or in-famous :)) 99 switchbacks and you will be around 12000 ft elevation level. This is a good spot to take a good rest and take out your energy bar or rest for 10–15 minutes as after this section your body will go into overdrive mode with breathing issues.

Segment 3: Trail Camp to Trail Crest (99 switchbacks !) (1.89 Miles, 1640 ft Elev Gain)

💡USEFUL TIP : Go slow and steady. Your body will start to feel the effect of low oxygen & may breath heavily

It is easy to spot 99 switchbacks when you see many hikers crisscrossing the steep rocky section. Many people think that 99 switchback is the most strenuous portion of the overall hike, but I felt otherwise (Hint: segment 4 is most brutal on the body). Perhaps the good rest and snack break I took at the base of 99 switchbacks gave me the needed energy to climb. The first 15–20 switchbacks are relatively short and you will gain elevation fast.

I was starting to gain a good pace and see my fellow hikers at a good distance. After you are mid way you will hit the famous iron cable section, which was completely free of snow when we hiked. One hiker told me that during peak winter season these cables are full of snow, which sounded scary as the other side of iron cables was a steep drop and if someone is not careful it can be dangerous.

After climbing a little bit more, I got the first glimpse of the hut at the top of Mt. Whitney and the ecstatic feeling was hard to describe. Although Whitney's summit was still very far away, I could now identify exactly the final destination and kept that in sight for the rest of the way. I wasted no time to take a good shot. It did not look like the tallest mountain due to some other peaks which gave giving illusion of being taller than Mt. Whiney, due to the angle of the view and slope of the trail.

Segment 4: Trail Crest to Whitney Summit (1.98 Miles, 1040 ft Elev Gain)

💡USEFUL TIP : Go slow. Use hiking poles to shift your weight & quick rest. Do not underestimate the final 1.9 mile as this is the most brutal segment

Once you reach Trail Crest your body will be super tired and you will be glad to know that Whitney Summit is only 1.9 miles away. However, the celebration is not over yet, and don’t be fooled as this segment can be very tiring for most people. In my opinion, the final 1.9-mile segment is the most brutal and hardest on your body and lungs — definitely for me.

Please be mentally and physically prepared for this brutal home stretch. Take it slow, take a good rest, and even snack up if needed. Keep sipping water to stay hydrated. I hated this part of the trail, as the up and down of the trail in the narrow rocky section can exhaust even the most experienced hikers. Keep in mind, that you will be over 13k ft elevation and may have to take multiple stops to breathe deep.

Finally — “The Summit”

Finally, around 1 pm, I reached the summit. It was a clear day with a clear view of the vastness of the Sierra Mountains. I rested for the first 10–15 min, completely in awe, and was trying to catch my breath. Soon the magnitude of our accomplishment started to sink in, and we took customary shots with the famous “Mt Whitney 14505” metal sign, which was either much heavier than we anticipated or our bodies were simply too tired.

Climb Down

We started our descent around 2:30 pm and soon someone reminded the quote they saw at the Whitney Portal trailhead which read “Summit is only halfway” and we had at least 11.5 miles still to hike down. One fellow hiker did a quick estimate that we might reach the trailhead by 11 pm. I reminded myself to at least try to push hard and make it back to the parking lot while there was some sunlight.

Despite keeping a steady fast pace, I reached back to the car around 8:50 pm and my legs were dead tired. The last 3.5 miles (Segment 1) felt like never ending and too long and too tiring.

One by one, others arrived at their own pace and after a tiring day we all reached back to our AirBnB around 11:30 pm and had well-deserved pizza for dinner and just crashed on the bed. We were all fast asleep within minutes.

The next day we all started back to the Bay Area with a lifetime of memories! Yay!

Everything you’ve ever wanted is on the other side of fear” — George Addair

Hike log here (Date: Aug 1, 2024, Start: 1:28 am, Finish: 8:50 pm)

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