Lisbon Beyond Belém
Off the beaten path in the City of Light
We’ve been here for 4 and a half years. Why Lisbon specifically, you ask?
This sunny city, often underestimated as merely a gateway to the European continent, has a unique atmosphere that has captured our hearts. Trust me when I say it’s worth setting aside much more than a 2-day stopover to explore this place at a leisurely pace.
If you have only one day
I strongly recommend starting this tour in the Príncipe Real neighborhood — partly because, if you follow my instructions, you’ll mostly be going downhill (remember, we’re talking about the city of seven hills!).
There are several beautiful little shops there, especially the palace called Embaixada (a sort of collaborative space for upscale brands, but don’t let the euro-to-real exchange rate scare you away from visiting), the building itself is an attraction. The central garden of Príncipe Real has a centennial tree (over 150 years old). Stop there for a few minutes, sitting and enjoying its shade.
Then I’d hop over to the nearby São Pedro de Alcântara Viewpoint (one of the most impressive in Lisbon) and continue to an absolute must-see attraction that many tourists overlook: the Carmo Convent. It was one of the few places that remained standing after the great earthquake of 1755.
Today, it’s a roofless archaeological museum, absolutely beautiful. It’s worth photographing the large Moorish-style door on the side and dedicating some time to explore it inside as well. Trust me when I say you won’t regret it.
I’d then head down towards the Chiado area (on Garrett Street). The pastel de nata at Castro is second to none.
There, you can also take a classic photo with the Fernando Pessoa statue, in front of A Brasileira café (also centennial — but be prepared to pay a fortune if you sit down for a coffee). You’ll find the Benetton store right next to the metro. On the top floor of Benetton, there’s a hidden gem called “Fábrica,” which is a wonderful pearl for unique gifts (shop/art gallery/bookstore).
On the main street of Chiado, Garrett, you’ll find Alcoa, a shop with a beautiful window display and mouthwatering sweets. Nearby, there’s also Bertrand, the oldest bookstore in the world.
I’d continue down to the left side, after passing by the Armazém do Chiado shopping center, towards Rossio Square. On the way, you’ll find the only Muji in Portugal (a Japanese store with unmissable products), as well as the Santa Justa Elevator (made by the same architect as the Eiffel Tower).
The idea in Rossio Square is to have a ginja de mariquinhas in a chocolate cup from a small stand that’s always there. The man is quite sophisticated, with a cart on the street next to the metro. This cherry liqueur is very, very good. The Rossio station next door has fantastic architecture and is worth a visit. From there, the traditional route calls for a stop at Commerce Square for the sunset.
If you want a very intimate place right in the historic center to end the day with an excellent wine, little known to tourists (a true escape from the tourist traps!), quiet, take a break at the Terraço Editorial. It’s on the rooftop of a huge home goods store (Polux). It’s a very special restaurant with a breathtakingly beautiful view of the city.
For those who have a few more days
I strongly recommend visiting LX Factory — it’s an old factory, with many super cool shops and art studios. The bookstore right in the center of it all is worth highlighting. Right next door is the Village Underground, which is also interesting.
Another very worthwhile little tour starts at one of my favorite places in Lisbon: Praça das Flores.
It’s close to Príncipe Real, but going down in the opposite direction from the one-day tour. In the square, besides lots of nature, you’ll find the Cafeh Tehran restaurant, serving Iranian food. You can sit there without fear of being happy, as you’ll have one of your best lunches in Lisbon, with good prices and great vegetarian options. But save room for dessert (coming up).
If you like coffee, I’d recommend the pour-over coffee at Copenhagen Coffee Lab, still in the square.
After eating, I’d head towards the Portuguese Parliament, which has beautiful architecture. You won’t be able to enter, so continue on the street with a view of the parliament, which is very pleasant. Look for the small shop of Juliana Penteado, a Brazilian confectioner. The sweets are heavenly, made with natural ingredients and essential oils.
If you plan to do some day trips
- I LOVE Queluz Palace. It’s a bit far, but it’s worth setting aside a whole day for it, as it’s considered the Portuguese Versailles.
- A sensational visit in Sintra is Quinta da Regaleira. Many people end up missing it.
- The Tile Museum is spectacular, one of the best in Lisbon.
- The Lisbon Museum Pimenta Palace is very special. It features an entire garden dedicated to the artist Bordallo Pinheiro. Beautiful.
- Other must-see trips are the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, the Belém Cultural Center, and the Monteiro Mor Botanical Park (one of my favorite places of all time).
- Near the botanical park, it’s also worth popping into the National Costume Museum (full of ghost stories). Take the opportunity to walk through the streets of Lumiar’s historic center — a true journey through time…
It’s obvious that there isn’t everything here — and I’m sure that some outraged people will send messages with other attractions that they share as unmissable attractions. But this script of mine, in my opinion, is worth its weight in gold. Share it with someone who might also enjoy it, save it to revisit when you come to Lisbon, and, of course, don’t forget to invite me for a cup of coffee or a photo session (yes! I have many passionate clients with beautiful sessions in this city that is pure light).
Did you enjoy what found here? Please, follow my MEDIUM, so it can get bigger! Every comment and feedback is highly appreciated. I am a German-Brazilian photographer, teacher, and artist, based in Lisbon. English isn’t my native language, so please, don’t mind the mistakes.
If you’d like to learn photography with me, feel free to drop me an email at raquelpellicano@gmail.com, also, you can follow my Instagram here.
See you next time,
Raquel Pellicano
