Trekking Peaks and New Perspectives in the Himalayan Wilderness
How I gained a new sense of companionship along the Buran Ghati trek
“What is the difference between a tourist and a traveller? A tourist seeks to escape life, while a traveler seeks to experience life.” — “A Tourist’s Guide to Love” on Netflix
At the beginning of June 2024, I started planning for the first trek of my life. After some consideration, I shortlisted two treks: Rupin Pass and Buran Ghati Pass. While I was finalizing my plan, I heard the news of the death of nine trekkers on the Sahastra Tal Trek due to a blizzard, which got me apprehensive as it was at a similar altitude to where I was planning to trek.
In the next few days, I made up my mind about the Buran Ghati trek. I was sure about my physical capabilities and met the fitness benchmark required for the trek.
Finally, on June 18th, I completed the booking for the trek with Bikat Adventures. I was excited as I was going to experience many things for the first time, like camping, walking on snow, etc.
On June 21st, I boarded the bus to Shimla. I reached there at 4:30 AM. I left for Janglikh base camp at 9:00 AM with my fellow trekkers (I was the youngest).
The distance from Shimla to Janglikh was around 140 km. It took us around nine hours to reach the base camp. The road was especially bumpy towards the end of the journey. However, the spectacular views kept us distracted. I listened and sang many songs throughout the journey. I also had siddu ghee (a local dish) for the first time on the journey.
Janglikh Base Camp (9200ft)
We arrived at Janglikh in the evening, around 5 PM. Janglikh is a small village with a population of around 1000 people. The locals were incredibly warm and welcoming.
We took a brief tour of the village, learning about its rich culture. This place feels stuck in time, preserving traditions for generations.
We also visited the ‘Jakh Maharaj Temple’, renowned for its stunning mountain views and the towering pine trees of the Chainsheel region.
We stayed at a homestay in Janglikh for the night after a scrumptious dinner along with shahi tukda. The following day, I woke up to a beautiful sunrise and a very light drizzle. I got ready for the next campsite, i.e., Dayara Thatch Campsite.
From Janglik (9,200ft) to Dayara (11,500 ft): 8–9Kms
We completed our breakfast and went to the temple premises for the warm-up. After the warm-up session, we started the trek through the village.
In half an hour, we crossed the village and reached the last network point where we contacted our families. For the next few days, there would be zero connectivity. The trail had a gradual ascent and a very steep part in between.
After a long three-hour walk, we reached a dhaba where we refreshed ourselves. Continuing on our journey, we encountered various kinds of cattle, including cows and sheep and dogs crossing our paths.
We paused at small streams to refill our water bottles. After a few more hours, the valley opened up, and we arrived at the Dayara Thatch campsite along the Pabbar River.
The campsite was full of flora and fauna, and the view of the adjacent mountains was breathtaking.
The moment we reached there, it started raining heavily. We immediately went inside our tents. Although we were instructed not to sleep, the sleeping bags engulfed us with their warmth. After a few hours, the rain stopped, and we walked around the camps.
Around dinner time, our trek leader called us for a brief where each one of us was asked to give ourselves an adjective with our name, and we would be called by that name for the rest of the trek. For example, our trek leader’s name was “Solid Sahil.” Following this trend, I had the name Adbhut Abhishek. Adbhut means incredible, by the way.
After we went into our tents to sleep, we realized we had company. There were hundreds of insects and flies in our tent. There was no way we could remove all of them. Finally, we covered our faces with balaclavas and went to sleep.
Our next campsite was Litham. I had heard that Litham is one of the best campsites in Himachal. The next day, we woke up and got ready to depart for Litham.
From Dayara Thatch to Litham (11,737ft) 6–7 kms
The trail started with a very gradual ascent and turned into steep walks in no time. We were informed the last dhaba until the pass would be in this stretch. We also encountered some unique streams of water, including waterfalls.
I don’t usually have Maggi, but I do fall for it while in the mountains. We reached the dhaba, and I was literally starving and immediately ordered Egg Maggi (2 eggs) and four boiled eggs. Trust me, it was one of the best Maggis I have had in a long time. The taste was ultimate.
After some time, I did bird watching. I saw one of the eagles doing tricks. I saw a magnificent eagle stopping mid-air without flapping its wings. It was a sight to behold. Also, the lush greenery at this place was just awesome.
After a lengthy hike, we finally arrived at Litham. This campsite was situated closest to the Pabbar River, offering a clear view of the Himsu peak.
Upon arrival, we were not allowed to rest. Instead, after some refreshments, we went on a short training session (unmarked trail discovery) to prepare for the next day’s challenge — a hike to Chandranahan Lake at 13,900 feet, followed by a descent on the same day. This hike served as our acclimatization exercise.
We prepared ourselves for the training and began ascending a steep slope near our campsite, guided by specific techniques. There was no set time limit, but reaching the top using the instructed methods was the only rule. Though demanding, the effort was worthy.
Upon reaching the top, we were suddenly surrounded by clouds racing through the valley towards us. It was a sight I had never witnessed before, and it moved me deeply. For a moment, I was in tears. The feeling can’t be explained in words.
Once we reached the camp after training, we played some games like 7up and 321contact and then went to sleep early, since the next day was going to be challenging. Also, what I heard about Litham was completely true. The campsite was just out of this world.
From Litham to Chandranahan lake(13900ft)— then — back to Litham 9kms
Initially, we had planned to go to Chandranahan Lake 1, but later our trek leader decided to push to Chandranahan Lake 5, which was another 150 m altitude gain.
We got ready after breakfast. We had upma and pancakes, which were tasty. Took refreshments and started our trek.
Lessons learned from the training helped a lot. The trail was really steep, and there were boulders everywhere. We trekked straight up and reached the top of Lake 1. We could see the Chandranahan waterfall from there.
After some rest, we started walking towards Lake 5, and we crossed lakes 2, 3, and 4, which were also called tarns. I also made a small cairn at the peak.
After some time, I had the first sighting of snow. I had never experienced snow until now. I ran towards the patch like a child and collected the snow. I was awestruck.
After a short walk from the patch, we finally reached the majestic Chandranahan Lake 5. The name Chandranahan can be split into two words — Chandra and Nahan. It was the place where Shiva came for a bath and removed the moon from his head and kept it on the side near the lake.
We did a small puja there and prayed for the success of the Buran Pass and I also prayed for the well-being of my family, friends, and close ones. We kept flowers from around the lake in our rucksacks as a good luck charm.
We descended back from the lake and raced towards the camp. The descent was a bit painful, but we had got the info that we would be getting rajma chawal for lunch. I couldn’t wait to have it.
Finally, we reached the camp and ate the delicious meal. An hour later, we gathered for some games like Pittho, which brought out the inner child in us.
After all this, I sat near the Pabbar River, put my legs in the chilly water for some time, and felt gratitude for being able to do this trek. After some time, we had our dinner and slept. Our next campsite was Dunda (13,365 ft), which was the last campsite before the Buran Pass.
From Litham(11,737ft) to Dunda (13,365ft) 5–6kms
We began trekking around 8 AM. We got our phone cameras out as this region was really picturesque. Soon, we approached a river crossing. While not everyone was excited about this part, I was ,since I enjoy cold water. I quickly removed my shoes and socks.
Gathering together, we formed a chain with me at the front alongside our trek guide, Vijay. Quickly, I realized this might not have been the best idea. Despite the cold water didn’t pose a problem, the stones and pebbles under my feet were painful and uncomfortable. Nevertheless, we successfully crossed, and putting my shoes back on was a relief.
Shortly after, we encountered a glacial bridge which, although slippery as soap, we managed to cross without a problem.
Next, we started the straight climb towards Dunda.
It took some time, but refreshments along the way helped to keep us charged. By this time, every next campsite we reached was more beautiful than the last one, and Dunda was no exception. It resembled a carpet of multicolored flowers. It felt like heaven. After completing our cool-down exercises, we took numerous photos.
Later that day, I even managed to catch an hour of sleep on a rock.
We were then called for a brief session about the equipment we would be using for rappelling the next day, including seat harnesses, climbing helmets, descenders, carabiners, and microspikes. Having never rappelled before, I paid close attention to every instruction and tried out each piece of equipment to ensure I was familiar with it, knowing my safety depended on it.
As the evening progressed, a delightful surprise awaited us. I noticed our cook bringing pani puri to the dining tent. Although I am not usually very fond of this snack, the excitement around me was contagious. I volunteered to serve as the pani puri walaa. The meal was delicious, but what made it truly special were the joyful expressions of my fellow trekkers.
Afterward, we had an early dinner, as we needed to start our trek to the pass at 2:15 am, requiring us to wake up at 12:50 am. We all retired to our tents to rest. But something unsettled me, and I found myself unable to sleep. My mind wandered to thoughts of the people I cherish — my family, friends, and close ones — and I also found myself overthinking the rappelling challenge ahead. Despite my efforts to relax, I couldn’t drift off.
At 10:30 pm, I left my tent. The campsite was quiet and empty. I wandered for a bit and then sat down in an open area. As I sat there, the clouds parted, revealing a stunning night sky filled with stars. I stayed there for about an hour, mesmerized by the beauty of the night. It was a breathtaking sight and a treat for my eyes. Gradually, others began to wake up, and by 1:30 am, the clouds had returned.
We faced whiteout conditions, and soon enough, it started raining. All of us gathered in the dining tent, waiting for the rain to stop. We were supposed to leave at 2:15 am, but it continued raining for the next hour and a half. Finally, at 4:15 am, we got the green light to start our trek. The trail was slippery, so we turned on our head torches and moved carefully.
From Dunda to Manerang (10952ft) via Buran Pass (15055ft) 8–10 kms
The trail was extremely steep. About 300–400 meters from the camp, it turned into a complete boulder section. I was excited, and the little fear I had last night faded away. My full focus was on the trail and keeping my footing stable.
There was a waterfall alongside our path, though it was invisible at that moment. After an hour of trekking, we could see the snow-covered mountains on the other side.
Slowly and steadily, I made my way to the top. Yayyy! I finally reached the pass. The view overwhelmed me — the clouds around the mountains and the snow fields stretched out everywhere.
We took some pictures to capture the moment. Surprisingly, we had phone signals at the top, but I didn’t want to take out my phone. I just wanted to soak in the beauty of the mountains.
After a while, I got ready for rappelling. I put on the seat harness, wore the microspikes, and checked everything twice to make sure I was securely attached.
After the Buran Pass, you can’t continue on foot. This is where we needed to descend around 120–130 meters by rope and then slide the rest of the way down. If you zoom in on the next picture, you can see people descending the wall section. It starts with a 90-degree descent and gradually, the slope angle decreases.
To be honest, I wasn’t afraid of the rappelling part. I attached myself to the rope and started descending like a pro. However, my rope got entangled with another, and I got stuck, hanging in mid-air for 5–7 minutes. Despite this, I still didn’t feel any fear. But then, a small landslide started while I was still hanging, and I didn’t move. I saw rocks, about the size of tennis balls, falling very close to me.
At that moment, I felt numb. I realized that even the smallest rock, having reached terminal velocity, could seriously injure me. Fortunately, none of the rocks hit me. I waited until the landslide stopped and then descended quickly.
As soon as I reached the ground, someone removed my harness and instructed me to slide down (The sliding part was not pre-planned) and use my elbows as brakes. I did as told, losing my balance a bit, but eventually reaching the bottom safely. I, along with the others, waited for about two hours for everyone to rappel down. Then we started walking through the snow and boulder section.
Soon enough, we got the chance to experience a rare optical phenomenon called “halo,” which is a circular rainbow.
We continued our descent, losing a significant amount of altitude in a single day. Eventually, we reached a dhaba where I had egg Maggi again along with a cup of hot coffee.
Then it started raining, we put on our ponchos and headed towards the Manerang Campsite. We were now in the Kinnaur district, having started from Shimla. The trail was amazing, surrounded by lush greenery.
We trekked for around 10–12 hours that day to reach Manerang. After doing our cool-down exercises, we gathered for lunch. The signal at Manerang was very weak, but I managed to contact my family and talk to them for a while.
Later, we had our last briefing of the trek, or rather a debriefing, where we shared our experiences and key moments. Here is what I said:
The trek has been wonderful for me. I didn’t have any expectations other than hoping to experience snow. From childhood, our brains are wired into a give-and-take mindset: If I have come here, I should be enjoying myself all the time, sucking out joy from every moment. But that’s not how it is with me. Sometimes, it’s just better to do things not to get anything out of them.
I was happy throughout the trek without trying to be. The adventure was awesome, but it was the small things that moved me — valuing the surroundings, drinking water from streams and waterfalls, breathing fresh clean air, and observing the people in the mountains. They always had smiles on their faces, were welcoming, and seemed content with their lives. I was also happy to meet my fellow trekkers, who came from different professions and shared a passion for trekking.
For me, this trek wasn’t an escape. I was a happy soul when I left home for the trek and experienced new things and going back an even happier soul.”
Also, my key moment was at the Dunda Campsite when I started laughing from an in-joke which escalated and I laughed so long I had tears in my eyes.
From Manerang to Barua Village 6–7kms and then to Shimla 250kms drive
The next day, we had breakfast and started our final descent. The trail was very muddy and slippery, with a lot of fog along the way. I enjoyed some local fruits like khumani and saw some apple plantations as well.
We took a few breaks along the way, but managed to reach the Barua taxi stand on time. Some of us needed to reach Shimla to catch our 10:30 pm bus to Delhi.
From Barua, we started our journey to Shimla by road, following the majestic Baspa River. The scenic road offered breathtaking views. By evening, around 9 PM, we arrived in Shimla and then departed for our respective destinations.
Closing notes and takeaways
Every first experience holds a special place in our hearts. While I look forward to going on many more treks in the future. Already planning to go to Kashmir Great Lakes, Kang Yatse 2, and the Friendship Peak Expedition. I realize that as time goes on, memories of these experiences get blurred.
Yet, I want to preserve the feeling of my first trek and reflect on how it unfolded. Even though I know I won’t forget anything from this trek, capturing it in this memoir makes it especially meaningful to me.
I went on this trek solo, cutting myself off from the world for some days. Trekking wasn't a leisure activity; it was a challenge and uncomfortable at times. Despite this, I remained energetic, cheerful, and constantly happy. I never felt the urge to check my phone even once, and I never felt lonely. The truth is, loneliness creeps in when you lose touch with yourself or miss yourself, not because you lack others in your life.
Treks allow you to find yourself and meet yourself. And, when you find yourself and accept the good and bad parts within you, you become your own best company. While we still need people in our lives, it's not to gain something from them, but to share the joy we’re experiencing.
Trekking also teaches us the value of teamwork and the importance of relying on one another. It shows us how important it is to team up and handle arduous tasks together as a team. We learn to appreciate ourselves, our lives, and the people who care about and love us a bit more.
Treks teach us lessons in both independence and interdependence. So, my advice is simple: go out and trek — it’s an invaluable journey of self-discovery and growth.
