Randonautica Cycling Four— Hushanyan Recreation Area, Huatan Township
23rd June 2024
Huatan Township is located just a short ride south of Changhua City. Nestled at the foot of the Baguashan Mountain Range, this historic town offers forested areas and hiking trails for city dwellers to explore. Huatan Township boasts a rich history in brick-making and agriculture, industries that once brought great wealth to the area. Though the brick industry has faded, the town remains alive, thanks in part to the train line that runs through it. Tourism is on the rise here, driven by the allure of the Baguashan mountains and the town’s storied past.
I love cycling down to Huatan Township whenever I want a quick escape from the city. It offers a refreshing taste of the countryside. One can follow the canal out of Changhua towards Huatan. However, during my latest visit, I discovered that parts of the canal were under construction. Fortunately, being a Sunday morning, the guard at the entrance allowed me to pass through the barrier, giving me the entire road to myself. I was grateful for this, as it allowed me to avoid the heavy traffic that usually flows out of the city on Road 137.
Before tackling the steady incline up the mountain, I decided to stop at a Seven-Eleven. For breakfast that day, I had only managed a stale doughnut and a coffee, which wasn’t nearly enough to fuel a climb up a small mountain. So, I opted for a tuna, egg, and potato salad sandwich (Taiwanese are very creative with their sandwiches), a banana, and a flavoured water for refreshments. I studied the route on my phone; while the destination didn’t look too far, the uphill journey on a day expected to reach 35 degrees Celsius made it seem much farther.
I had planned a day to challenge myself, determined to break the habit of getting off my bike and pushing it uphill. The first section of the route took me down a backroad that skirts the edge of Huatan. I began a small but manageable incline through these lesser-used roads. Trees were dense to my right, and the sounds of the forest came alive. However, this little stretch of trees and wildlife was short-lived, merely a route leading to houses and providing a shortcut to a main road I had to ascend anyway. Though I didn’t need to take this small backroad, it was a good way to prepare my mind and body for the challenge ahead.
At the time, I didn’t realise that the Randonautica route was taking me to one of Baguashan’s biking trails called Hushanyan. When I saw the map welcoming me to the trail, I was overjoyed. “That means it’s going to be beautiful,” I thought to myself as I traced my finger along the map, following its dusty line up to where I needed to go.
It wasn’t long before I started to see the tourist buses taking people up to a very old temple. The Hushanyan Temple, popular with tourists and worshippers, was built in 1747 for the patron god Guanyin. Outside the temple stand two large Chinese banyan trees, around 200 years old, providing ample shade. I took advantage of their massive size. It is said that the tiger god here can bring wealth, with people often exchanging their small change for much larger fortunes in the future.
Hushanyan is considered one of the eight wonders of Changhua.
I pushed further up the mountain, the sound of the man’s saxophone playing outside the temple gradually fading, while the choir of cicadas grew ever louder. On the backroad I found myself on, the trees offered plenty of shade — perfect considering it was approaching midday and the temperature was very hot, reaching around 35 degrees Celsius, but feeling more like 44 due to the humidity.
As the road turned slightly steeper, I felt the strain in my thighs. A quick stop next to a cheerful golden Buddha provided a much-needed break, allowing me to refresh myself and lift my spirits.
The roads passed by people’s houses and sites that looked like places where people dumped the most random things, mostly for construction. Some of the items had been there so long, they had begun to rust.
At one point, the road became too steep for my uphill riding skills. I tried my best, but I was going so slow that I worried gravity might take hold and start pulling me back down the mountain. As the road twisted upwards, I could just make out the tops of the trees in the crags of the mountain. Apparently, the mountain I was climbing resembles a sleeping tiger; I had no idea which part of the tiger I was on — it could have been its paw, its jaw, or its rear end.
As I approached the top of the mountain, two elderly men on a walk began to smile as they noticed my dripping self, heaving the bike up the last few metres. I remember my tongue was sticking out, and my t-shirt clung tightly to me. I must have looked quite a sight to them. “Ni hao,” I said to them. They nodded and replied before continuing on their journey.
The rest of Baguashan stretched out before me, the dense forest resonating with its cacophony, gently drowning out the distant hum of traffic on the main road. Leaning against the exercise bars, I let my arms rest while sweat dripped from my forehead and nose. Although a few people walked past, I hardly noticed them. I found myself on one of Changhua’s popular walking routes, where dodging others proved challenging.
I hadn’t yet reached the coordinates of Randonautica. It would be a few more minutes of cycling along the mountaintop. This was the part I had been looking forward to the most; I just needed to wait until my legs felt ready to get back in the saddle. After a brief cooldown in the shade of a tree, listening to my heartbeat slow down, I resolved to continue.
The road along the mountaintop was fortunately quiet with traffic — just the occasional car or scooter passing by. It was a pleasant ride, winding and twisting, alternating between uphill climbs and breezy descents. A smile spread across my face as I caught glimpses of the view beyond the trees. If it weren’t for the heat, this road would be even more enjoyable.
Walkers passed me with nods and smiles once again, and I felt like part of the bustling community of people enjoying a beautiful day out. Taking another breather, I observed a Pallas squirrel, also known as the red-bellied tree squirrel (Callosciurus erythraeus — if you’re interested in the Latin), leaping from branch to branch in front of me. It, too, seemed unhurried as it gracefully moved around the tree trunk, gazing up into the leaves above.
Once the squirrel disappeared from view, I decided that was enough distractions for one day and continued on. I truly loved this road.
A gentle breeze rustled the leaves above my head, and for a few moments, I had the road all to myself. The sun’s heat was tempered by the shadows, accompanied by the rhythmic ticking of my bike chain.
Eventually, the trees opened up, revealing another side of the mountain and a view I hadn’t seen before. I stood there for a long while, leaning my forearms against the bike’s handlebars. I couldn’t believe Randonautica had led me to such a place — a view that, while not the best in the world, still looked wonderful after every pedal stroke up the mountain. Using your own strength makes you feel like you deserve to see this view, so you might as well soak it in while you can.
This spot still wasn’t where the coordinates were taking me, but I couldn’t help wishing it was — it would have been the perfect ending for the blog. Oh well, onwards we go.
The coordinates led me just around the corner to a hiking trail. I had thought I’d explored every trail near these mountains close to the city, but apparently not. Thanks to this random bike ride, I discovered more hiking trails waiting to be explored, which thrilled me to no end. I parked my bike and thought, “Why not go for a hike while I’m at it?”
The trail had steps, a common feature on hiking trails in Taiwan for some reason. I ventured in, hoping to find another view. Unfortunately, the thick forest blocked any sight of the mountains beyond. This didn’t bother me much, though, as the shade from the trees kept me cool. Along the way, I spotted many little critters, from fluttering butterflies to a skittish lizard rustling through the dried leaves.
And so, the Randonautica app led me up the side of the mountain in Huatan Township, past the historic Hushanyan Temple, along quiet backroads, and onto a serene forest hiking trail that left me eager to return and explore further. Randonautica, you’ve done it again.
If there’s any truth to the mystic law of attraction, I suppose positive thoughts before a ride certainly do help. Until next time, happy cycling!
I wonder where the Randonautica app will take me next time?
