Basic Mountaineering Course, HMI (Himalayan Mountaineering Institute)
Himalayan Moutaineering Institute is one of the premier institutes in the field of mountaineering in India. This is also the first mountaineering institute established in India in 1954 by the first prime minister Pandit Jawahar Lal Neharu and proposed by Tenjing Norgay ( One of the First Everest Summiteer with Sir Edmund Hillary on 29th May 1953.) After the successful summit of the peak he wished to establish an institute to train the budding mountaineers which was accepted by the prime minister.The institute is located on Jawahar Parbat, Darjeeling, West Bengal.
Apart from this there are also other institutes which are famous which includes Nehru Institute of mountaineering, Uttar Kashi, Uttarakhand and Atal Bihari Vajpayee institute Of Mountaineering and Allied Sports , Manali, Himachal Pradesh.
H.M.I. offers Basic, Advance and Methods Of Instruction Course in the field of Mountaineering. The courses are held in the month of October, November, December, March, April and May. Being heavily subsidized, the fees charged is very nominal Rs. 4000 for Indian citizens and US $ 700 for foreign nationals other than SAARC countries. The fees includes the accommodation, fooding. They also provide you the equipments and the warm clothes. Course duration is 4 weeks.
Basic Mountaineering Course
I did my BMC in March ’09. The course was divided into four phases :
(a) Acclimatisation & theoretical training in around Darjeeling -05days
(b) Trekking (approach to the base camp t 14,600ft and return) — 07days
(c )Field Training(above Base Camp) -14 days
(d) Administration and Graduation ceremony — 02 days.
Phase I : Acclimatisation & Theoretical Training
I arrived Darjeeling(avg. altitude 7000 ft. ) at 3rd of March. A room which can accommodate 8 students in the Swiss style HMI hostel was allotted. In the evening we were made aware with the rules and regulations of the institute. Our training was to be started from the next day with the morning PT after jogging in ascents and descents of Darjeeling about 5 km. This will be our daily routine in the Phase I. After PT , students will have their breakfast and Then classes of Rock Climbing (both practical and theory at the rock faces ( Tenzing Rock, Gombu Rock, New Face) of HMI. Sometimes on the artificial walls (Indoor and outdoor) .
Theory classes also includes lectures on Knots, Ropes, Introduction and use of mountaineering equipments, Glaciers, Himalayas, Mountain Hazards. Equipments like harness set, carabiners, rope, warm clothes, rucksack, crampons, snow shoes, mittens, water bottle, Tiffin box etc. was allotted within few days. Students are divided into different ropes(groups) of 6 randomly. Seniors(in my case military personnel) among us were made the rope leaders. My rope instructor was Kushang Sanghe Sherpa. Students were made to practice to trek for 2 -3 days with the load before going to Phase II. On the last day of Phase I, we were allowed to go outside the campus to buy some necessary things etc. like sunglasses, raincoats, etc.
Students coming to HMI : In my batch there were 66 people in which at least 25 of them were from military (Army, Navy and Air force) and most of remaining were from our North eastern part of India. I was the only one from UP. Many of the Nepali people or from north east of India come to pursue the course to get a job in this field.
Phase II : Trekking (approach to the base camp t 14,600ft and return)
We went to Yoksum( meeting place of three lamas, this is also the first capital of Sikkim, 5400 ft) with our Instructors by bus hired by HMI. We stayed in the tents in the night. Next day the trekking started. We were in Kanchendzonga National Park region. Entering into this region requires permission and other formalities.
Kitchen at Bakhim We started to trek early morning and reached to Bakhim (Home of bamboos, 9000 ft.) at about 2 o’clock. This was about 13 kms. HMI mess staff had already reached there. We had our meal and then rested there in the night in forest rest house. Next day we were taken to a small village Tsokha(about 11000 ft. ) for acclimatisation. They say that if you work at higher altitudes and sleep at lower altitude you will acclimatise well and fast. There are some small shops where you can buy something to eat like chips, biscuits or also cold drink, tea etc. After staying there for a while we returned back to Bakhim and on the next day in early morning we moved to Dzongari(meeting place of man and mountain gods, 13220 ft.) via Phedang ( a small place where a shop wa
s also there) which was about 11 kms.We pitched our tents to stay there in the night. The female course mates were made to stay in the trekking huts. From here we can see the effect of high altitudes. The trees are now converted to bushes and some people were starting to get headaches including me. The only remedy of which was to drink more and more water since we dehydrate too much in the altitudes. This is also first sign of AMS (acute mountain sickness). In the evening we went for acclimatisation to surrounding hills ropewise with our rope instructors where we were also introduced by the surrounding peaks and places. There was a freezing stream which becomes coverd by ice at some places overnight nearby in Dzongri so we didn’t have water problems. The mess crew always reaches in advance to provide meal and tea at time. Next day we started our final trek of 13 kms. via Dzongari Pass to Chaurikhang(grazing place of Yaks, 14600 ft.), HMI Base Camp. In between we were provided tea at Beak Bari ( a place 3 kms before Base Camp) which is all the way down for more than 1000 ft. from Dzongari pass which is itself at 14600ft. and then climb). Here you will feel the effect of low atmospheric presuure. Another trek route shoots from Dzongari pass which goes to Goecha La pass (more 17000 ft.) near the feet of Kanchendzonga.
MI Room @ HMI Base Camp If you go further there is a beatiful lake Chhangu. At base camp we stayed in the hut which was gifted by TISCO. MOI students were staying in the tents. There was a separate hut for girls. We found our allotted space in the hut and laid down our mats for the next 15 days training.
Phase III : Field Training(above Base Camp) -14 days
When we reached Base Camp, the weather was clear and there was no sign of snowfall but it started snowing just after an hour.We were enjoying the snow and meal was ready upto 1600 hrs. We were intimated about the rules and regulations at the base camp at that day and told to rest since we were going to have busy and tough schedule starting from tomorrow.
Trainees at Rathong glacier
Training area From the next day we have to go to Rathong glacier which was approx 4 km from the base camp for our training on ice.
We started at 0800 hrs. On the first day we were introduced about the surroundings and nearby peaks etc. and how to walk with crampons by our rope instructors. It started snowing heavily while we were practicing. This kind of weather pattern continued for next 15 days. Snowing starts around 1000 hrs and continued till late night. For the next 15 days all we can see was the whiteness everywhere and inches of snow. Weather was clear only in the early morning. It was fascinating to see the golden sunrise in those mountains covered with snow. Snow when pressed between ground and shoes becomes very slippery and it makes the walking very difficult. You have to be very careful while walking on snow especially on the glacier moraine (because of the staggered rocks and boulders. ) and the Koflach snow boots which we were wearing.
Training at ice wall We were provided tea biscuit after the training on the glacier ( thanks to the mess crew). We returned to the base camp in that heavy snow fall. It was hazy everywhere. Many people ( mostly females) were frightened after seeing such a view and a long slippery way to go. We were told that such are the conditions which you may face during any expedition, so you have to get acquainted with it and we did. Red flags were put show the way for the returning trainees while we were going to the base camp which were picked up back on the return. After return we had our meal and after a little rest we had a theory class about the equipments used. Some theory classes also include the demos performed by our instructors. This kind of routine and the same weather was followed for the next 15 days. We go early for the field training and after the meal we had our theory classes.
The water there was ice cold and was stored in tanks for washing purposes which gets froze in nights. You have to break the thick layer of ice to get the water from tank. Also we were provided with 3 ltrs. of hot water every day for drinking purposes other than several hot drinks every day to prevent the dehydration at the altitude.
For the next days we were trained about Ice climbing with the help of crampons and ice axe, Rescue techniques( self arrest with ice axe, rescue with pulleys), Knots, use of equipments, rappelling, Jumaring, and many more. Also theory classes about Mountain hazards and prevention ( by the Institute doctor ) etc. During the course many of our course mates were caught AMS some injured there ankles and were sent back.
Our Rope at the summit of Mt. Renok On the second last day of the base camp we went for the altitude gain to a nearby peak (Mt. Renok) which was about 15, 500 ft.. This was a good and thrilling experience. We didn’t stay there much because there was not much space on the peak and we have to leave the way for other ropes.
On that day we had our special meal (which is also called badakhana, a military ritual which I’ve seen being observed in NCC camps before) .
Girls and some slow walkers were told to retreat a day before since they will cover the return trek in the usual 3 days. We were told that they will join us in Yuksom. Trekking back also was not so easy. The route was very slippery and we were falling all the way. But we were very happy like we were being freed from jail. The snow ended after Phedang ( a place between Dzongari and Bakhim ) The people were filled with energy and they were moving very fast. After being at the altitude of base camp for so many days the return trek felt so easy that some of us were practically running all the way. We covered the return trek in 2 days. On the first day we trekked to Bakhim which was of 2 days while coming. Next day in the early morning we joined them in Yoksum. We returned to HMI, Darjeeling by bus from Yoksum.
Phase IV : Administration and Graduation ceremony — 02 days
After returning to the campus we had our written examination which was very easy for literates. The written examination was followed by the rope wise interview with the principal. He asked us us about the experience we had and our feedback and suggestions we wanted to make about the course and the facilities provided. Also there were individual competitions like sports climbing(on an artificial wall ) and cross country.
Coursemates graduated from HMI Graduation ceremony was held on the last day and we were awarded HMI batches by the Nawang Gombu Sherpa ( several times Everest summiteer ) for the successful completion of our course. We were told that our certificates will be sent within few months along with our grades. It is important to have A grade to get recommended for Advance Mountaineering Course. For gallery of pictures of the 270th BMC.
Update: In 2014, I got chance to go for AMC (Advance Mountaineering Course) from NIM, Uttarkashi. Here is what I experienced.
Comments are invited to help me improve this blog and share some more information …
HMI Contact Info:
POSTAL ADDRESS
PRINCIPAL
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
Jawahar Parvat
Darjeeling-734 101 (WB), India
TRAINING OFFICE: 0354 2254087/2254299
PRINCIPAL : 91 354 2254083
FAX No:91 354 2253760
Email: hmi_darj@rediffmail.com/hmidarj@gmail.com
Website: www.hmi-darjeeling.com
Update: HMI website doesn’t work sometimes. Below are the links to download application forms .
HMI Application Form
Medical Certificate
and here is the details of application process
Originally published at mountaineeringguide.blogspot.in on August 28, 2016.
