A Perfect Day of Summer…
Sanlúcar De Barrameda: Wine, Seafood and Horse Racing.
Andalusia is known worldwide for its food, good weather and the character of its people — always good-humored and welcoming. There are dozens of towns to visit both along the coastline and towards the interior, but if I had to pick just one I would choose Sanlúcar de Barrameda, my hometown, as one of the hidden gems in the South of Spain. A large coastal town in the province of Cadiz, it is right on the mouth of the Guadalquivir River, which creates a natural barrier between Cadiz and the Doñana National Park, in the province of Huelva.
Every summer Sanlúcar triples in size with the visit of thousands of seasonal tourists, both national and international. But what is it that lures this many tourists every year? Good food, Manzanilla wine, its beaches and the nice weather are among the top reasons. But Sanlúcar also offers beautiful architecture and landscapes, welcoming locals, plenty of options to relax or celebrate and a rich cultural heritage.
Do you want to discover what makes this city a very special spot in the South of Spain? Walk with me through a perfect day of summer in Sanlúcar and you will find out….
We start our day having breakfast at the Guzman Palace, owned by the Medina Sidonia Foundation. This palace-hotel-museum, whose origins date back to the 12th century, offers a breathtaking view of the city, from the old neighborhood, or “Barrio Alto,” to the Doñana National Park on the horizon. Breakfast can be enjoyed indoors in one of its many halls, surrounded by medieval armors and portraits, or outside, in its botanical garden. The menu ranges from the traditional “lomo en manteca colorá” (a shiny orange pork lard spread with meat chunks, which I highly recommend) to homemade pastries, cakes and natural juices. The sound of the fountain, the vibrancy of the flowers and trees, and the quiet ambience of its patio, will make you think you are up in heaven….
Once we have filled our bellies it’s time to learn more about the most famous product of this land, Manzanilla wine. Bodegas Barbadillo, the leading manufacturer of its kind, offers daily guided tours of its wine cellar. A ten minute walk from Guzman Palace, it’s the perfect next step on our journey.
As soon as we enter the cellar, the aroma of wine engulfs us. This is not just any wine though, Manzanilla is a very special wine variety that is internationally recognized and only produced in Sanlúcar. The characteristic high humidity, mild temperature and smooth breeze in Sanlúcar are essential for its production. The same grape fermented in a different location would produce a different wine such as the nearby Sherry variety… isn’t that amazing? This and much more we learn as we complete the one-hour visit in which we also get to taste this outstanding wine.
Now that we have already acquired a taste of Sanlúcar it’s time to relax and swim. Sanlúcar has a very peculiar beach given its geographical location between the river and the ocean. It’s the perfect mix and the reason why the water is translucent and not especially cold. We can go swimming, go for a walk or even eat again! All along the beach we will find many kiosks where we can have tapas, a glass of Manzanilla, an ice-cold Cruzcampo beer, or even a typical dish of “sardinas a la brasa” (grilled sardines), a summer staple. The views are impressive, with Doñana National Park on the other side. It is not as close as it seems though, so do not try to swim there…
After burning some energy it is time to return home for the national sport, at least during this time of the year, the siesta!
By mid-evening we are ready to go out again. What a surprise! It is August so if we are lucky we will get to see a horse race on the beach. Sanlúcar’s horse racing dates back to 1845 and is considered of International Touristic interest: every year hundreds of thousands of people come from many parts of the world to enjoy this spectacular event. Picture the scene: horses racing on the beach, with the sun setting over the Doñana National Park in the background.
The bell rings and the safety car starts speeding up the beach. Buckle up! This is an experience you will never forget….
After a couple of races it’s dinner time (by Spanish standards, 10pm would be a safe bet!). We could stay close to the races and check out some of the new trendy restaurants we will find along the promenade. For instance, Doña Calma Gastro Bar or el Veranillo de Santa Ana, both owned by the same family but with a completely different take on the fusion between traditional and contemporary cuisine. You would certainly want to try their tapa of beet salmorejo! Or we could follow the beach a little further to the more traditional restaurants in “Bajo de Guía,” like Casa Bigote or Restaurant El Poma, where we would enjoy the most traditional local cuisine based on fresh-caught fish and shellfish. Another option, for those who prefer a lighter tapas dinner, is to head inland towards Cabildo Square, the bustling heart of town and home to its most famous tapas restaurants. You will quickly identify Casa Balbino because it is always crowded. Its salmorejo (a dense cold tomato soup traditional from Cordoba), bechamel croquettes and stuffed red peppers will drive you crazy. And do not forget to ask for a plate of boiled prawns either! Together with Manzanilla, prawns are considered the gastronomic jewels of Sanlúcar.
But the fun part about tapas is that you don’t need to have them all in the same place. You must also try the “papas aliñás” (seasoned boiled potatoes) and the “tortillitas de camarones” (baby shrimp cakes) from La Barbiana, right next to the old city hall. And if you cannot find a place in any of these two restaurants (summer it is and the city is very crowded) do not worry and keep looking around, there are many other nice tapas places nearby.
How could we end a fantastic day if not with ice cream? Casa Toni is also in Cabildo Square and is featured in most travel guides. It is well known for its homemade natural ingredients and innovative recipes, with new flavors coming out every year. Expect long lines, but it is so well-organized that you would never wait more than 5 minutes to get your dream ice cream or sorbet.
And with this sweet touch the perfect day of summer ends…and the night begins for those who dare!
We ate, relaxed and enjoyed some of the wonders of Sanlúcar. In any case, if you cannot make it during the summer, perfect days of winter, spring and autumn are also available!
