5 Things to Know About Traveling to Northern Ireland

Photo by K. Mitch Hodge on Unsplash

My daughter and now son-in-law made the decision to have a wedding ceremony along the cliffs of Northern Ireland with the Dunluce Castle ruins as their backdrop. They wanted big in terms of destination and they got it. It was a beautiful wedding in a visually stunning place on one of the most perfect weather days you could ask for in a spot known for its unpredictable forecast.

We made the decision to go over before the wedding to explore the area. We knew very little about Northern Ireland when we started planning, so we researched adventure travel and found a 5-day walking tour along the coast called Causeway Coast and Antrim Glens. After flying through Belfast, taking a train to Coleraine, we ended up in the resort golf and beach community of Portstewart which is also where the walk started. From there we stayed mostly along the beaches and cliffs of the Antrim coast, following the towns of Bushmills through the Giants Causeway, Ballintoy, and Ballycastle. We took a ferry out to Rathlin Island and next, an inland transfer to Gelnariff Forest for a walk back into the town of Cushendall. We then circled back to Bushmills to meet up with the wedding party for the main event, my daughter’s wedding. The plan worked well logistically as we feel got to see a good representation of what this area had to offer while playing witness to the most beautiful and happy bride.

Map of our travels

Along the way, we learned much about this area both culturally and historically and offer the following highlights.

1. Northern Ireland’s natural beauty can not be overstated as this place is visually stunning. From the lush green grasses to the wildflowers growing along the trail and seemingly out of huge vertical rock cliffs, the pastures teeming with healthy sheep, stone walls, and cute buildings. The place is an organism for the eyes.
2. Don’t expect to see wildlife there. We wondered why there were no signs of the common deer, rabbits, or other critters but also the lack of aquatic life in a place seemingly so packed with things to eat. Our one wildlife thrill was the Puffins who come to the Rathlin Island Sea Bird Sanctuary each spring to breed. They blended in nicely with the other less interesting, gull-looking birds that basically covered poop all over all the large rock features. It was actually a really cool day, a great hike across the island, and the Puffins are definitely worth the trip.
3. The people were wonderful. Just as the natural land is amazing, the people were the nicest, most approachable of any we’ve ever encountered during our travels. They were kind, open, and willing to talk about whatever subject. They were also extremely hospitable. On one occasion, we observed an innkeeper who was hosting the breakfast for all guest which included cooking, making tea, and serving. A lady came in, looked at the buffet and requested non diary milk. He happily left the inn for a quick 2 minute run to the store to satisfy her needs and never broke away from just being kind and glad to be of service.
4. The Troubles are real and yes, discrimination still exists around the world. I recall news accounts of the bombings and whatnots in Northern Ireland when I was young but never really took the time to understand the issues. So I suggest that you learn about the Troubles before you go as it will definitely add to your appreciation of the area. In summary, England moved in and took over the island, booted many of the local farmers off their land, replacing them with their own, leaving the Irish at the bottom of the social and economic ladder. After Ireland fought and reclaimed independence, the northern counties remained loyalist holdovers keeping the Irish as second-class citizens (think Native Americans or all greedy humans without a conscious). Sure, the Irish could have simply moved south to the Republic of Ireland but they chose to fight for their rights and for a unified Ireland which turned into a well-known violent fight, and a popular U2 song, Sunday Bloody Sunday. The Good Friday Accords signed by both sides have quieted the turmoil but the friction beneath the surface remains.
5. Lastly, and a much lighter subject, is why don’t they have lamb on more menus at restaurants in Northern Ireland. We saw more sheep than people yet every menu featured a fish-n-chips entrée where you’d expect lamb kabobs, lamb meatballs, shepherds pie with lamb, lamb sausage, and so on. The only thing less than lamb on any menu was fresh vegetables.

We loved our trip, seeing my daughter’s wedding, learning about a new place, and experiencing the Northern Ireland coast with its amazing views and people. It is definitely worth a visit.