The Cats of Istanbul
I spent three weeks in Istanbul. It’s an incredible city with an equally incredible history going back almost 3,000 years. From Byzantium to Constantinople to present day Istanbul. Greeks, Romans, Ottomans and modern day Turks.
A sprawling metropolis of 15 million people. Stretching across Europe and Asia, separated by the narrow Bosphorus Strait. You can take a ferry (great views) or the train across — only one stop from Sirkeci to Üsküdar, taking about 5 minutes. Sadly you can’t walk across the bridges, so it’s not possible to walk or run between Europe/Asia.
Sultanahmet, the peninsula on the European side, is a historic old town. Famous sights such as the Hagia Sophia (first a church and now a mosque) as well as the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and many others. As expected it’s busy and crowded with tourists and prices are inflated. But all a must.
On the western end of Sultanahmet, you can find the old walls of the city. Originally a perimeter of around 21 km. A north/south walk along the western segment is definitely worth doing. 50,000 Ottomans with cannons laid siege to the city in 1453 – then Constantinople. That marked the end of the Eastern Roman Empire.
But enough about the city itself! I went for the residents. And I don’t mean the humans (who are nice enough of course).
The cats! All shapes and sizes. All colours. Floofs and chonkers. They’re all there. Friendly, healthy and happy.
People don’t “keep” cats in Istanbul. They don’t “belong” to anyone. Cats live side by side with humans. Not wild yet not domesticated. Local communities put up little shelters and put food and water out for them too. They’ll club together if a cat needs to be taken to the vet (they also take care of dogs). The government and communities work together to vaccinate, neuter/spay the cats. So they’re safe to pet, although having some wet wipes or hand sanitiser might be a good idea if you’re concerned about hygiene.
I found the friendliest cats to be in Cihangir on the European side where I spent my first and last week. Up on a hill with many steps, lot of cat houses along the way. Around 70 metres or 200 feet up. A cat or two may judge you if you stop to catch your breath on your way up. Cihangir has a very “bohemian” feel, lots of artists and writers live there. Relatively quiet too. The locals appreciate the cats, taking time to pet and play with them.
While there I met a man who was bringing a couple of young kitties back from the vet. There was a donation box so I put some money in. Three cats thanked me by climbing onto my lap.
I spent my middle week on the Asia side in Kadıköy and found plenty of cats there too but they didn’t seem as friendly. More aloof. Aloof floofs. Kadıköy had lots of restaurants, cafes and bars but was very busy. Moda, just south of there, is pretty with views across the Sea of Marmara. There’s a nice trail for long walks or runs too. Istanbul itself isn’t a running friendly city in most parts, especially with the narrow pavements and busy traffic.
The Fenerbahce football team is based in Kadıköy and it can get very crowded and loud on match days. Not my thing.
Someone seems to have dressed this kitty in an outfit made out of a football. Does not look happy at all. I wouldn’t be either.
You’ll also find cats sitting in cafes everywhere. Usually napping. Sometimes watching you eat, but not hassling you for food. They get plenty.
I imagine opening a cat cafe in Istanbul wouldn’t be the best business idea.
I love cats. They made my time in Istanbul special. Walking, exploring, absorbing all the history. Stopping every few minutes to pet a new furry friend.
Here’s some more locals.
Notice the clipped ear of the next cat? That’s to mark it’s been vaccinated and neutered/spayed. Dogs will have a yellow tag in their ear to indicate the same.
This shy little one kept meowing at me from a distance. Stranger danger!
Rare to see a cat with a collar. This one “belonged” to a cafe.
Lastly, this chonker:
Meow.
