A Glimpse of Brera District
Hidden Gems, Historical Places
Lauren Branch and Bianca Lalli
Brera district, bordered by Sforza castle and the Duomo, is an area rich in history, art and culture. It is known as the bohemian area of Milan, always admired and chosen by artists because it reminds them of the old and authentic city. The animated streets are filled with outdoor coffee bars, an abundance of exclusive shops and boutiques, restaurants and countless galleries.
But the neighbourhood also has an illustrious history which has been carried into the present. The name ‘Brera’ comes from the Lombardy word ‘Braida’ which means ‘green space’. Back in middle ages the area was common land with the city where people would gather to share in literature and artistry. Even in its very early days, the district was a place to collect history and creativity so that it could be enjoyed by all.
This history can still be found today, some parts displayed in plain sight and some hidden between the narrow streets of the modern district. Here are five examples to give you a taste of all that Brera has to offer, a culmination of history and culture in the one place.
The Pinacoteca
via Brera, 28
This location is not particularly hidden, but certainly full of history. The Pinacoteca art gallery houses one of the greatest collections of Italian paintings, including masterpieces such as Francesco Hayez’s The Kiss and Andrea Mantegna’s The Dead Christ and Three Mourners.
The columned courtyard of Palazzo di Brera allows access to not only the gallery, but also the the Astronomical Observatory, the Braidense National Library and the beautiful Botanical Gardens which are free to the public. One could spend a whole day exploring these historical institutions and enjoying the tranquility of the gardens at the heart of a bustling city.
Adult tickets are €12 but students have discount access for €2. If you happen to be visiting on the first Sunday of the month you can enter for free, but be ready to wait in a long line.
Jamaica Bar
via Brera, 32
Just across the street sits Jamaica, a bar which brags quite a reputation for housing many famous artists and scholars since its opening in 1911. Its and historical place in the heart of Brera, it preserves not only history but the culture of the city. The cafe was named by Giulio Confanoleri, a musicologist who made an association between the bar and the movie ‘Jamaica Inn’. The bar attracted students and scholars from the nearby Academy of the Fine Arts.
“Jamaica became the “Café of the artists” in Milan, when the cafes were really the cafes and people went there to exchange ideas, to fight over the sex of the angels, to distract themselves with friends, with cards, with the help of a glass.”
- History of Jamaica Bar
Micaela Manini has been working in Jamaica bar for ten years now and she said that the family Manini had been the owner of the place since 1911.
“Jamaica Bar, its been here from the beginning, that’s why when you talk about the bar you are talking about the history of the neighbourhood”, Manini shared.
The bar is known for having important people as guests, like Benito Mussolini who choose the Jamaica bar to enjoy his morning cappuccino.
“Even today the clientele is varied (artists, writers, journalists, musicians, students of the Academy), of course there are also many tourists given the proximity to the Pinacoteca di Brera,” Micaela explained.
“I think it’s interesting to have the chance to have a coffee in the same place that someone that you read about in the books had, that also attracts people,” Manini said.
Cesare Crespi
via Brera, 28-A
The Cesare Crespi Company has been producing stationery in this location since 1880 and has flourished in the Brera district for four generations.
“The brand of the Company Cesare Crespi was created by Daniele Fontana (Milan 1900–1952), satirical illustrator, illustrator and figurative painter: he took part in the National Exposition of Milan, becoming a regular guest at the “La Permanente” exhibition, a historical Milanese artistic and cultural association. A great caricaturist, he collaborated with satirical and humorous magazines.”
- crespi-brera.com
Antica Farmacia
via Fiori Oscuri, 13
This pharmacy, located on via Fiori Oscuri, is the oldest in Milan. In 1812 this location became the home of the Pharmacy of Brera, run at the time by Andrea Castoldi. It was, however, formerly located in Palazzo di Brera as part of the Jesuit institution of Higher Studies.
Today a plaque on the exterior and interior furnishings evidence the pharmacy’s long history.
Roberto has been working in the farmacia for 5 years. He said that most customers are unaware that Antica was the first farmacia in their city, they go for the services and the unusual furnishings that make this pharmacy an intriguing place. However, Roberto said that once they discover this history, they are amazed and curious to learn more.
Rigolo
via Solferino, 11
The Milanese restaurant, Rigolo, has 60 years of history to its name. It was founded in 1958 by Tuscan brothers, Sivaldo and Silvano Simoncini. Today the restaurant is run by Sivaldo’s son, Renato.
Rigolo has several rooms to dine in, each featuring decor to illustrate the history collected by the restaurant over its many years in business.
The Satire room feature illustrations and comics from endless creatives, journalists and The Photography Room displays a collection of photographs by Carlo Bavagnoli, photographer for LIFE magazine and a long-time Rigolo regular.
The Artists Room is decorated with the paintings of local artists over the years. These artists would often pay for the bill with their paintings. Sometimes students from the Academy would sit in the restaurant to paint and offer their works for sale to other customers. Sivaldo liked to support these broke creative souls by paying them an advance for supplies, then purchasing his favourite of their produced works.
Finally, the Rigolettori Room is for the literary. It is a room for reading, writing, lined with books particularly pertaining to the Italian culinary experience.
