Meeting a longstanding opponent face-to-face
A trip to Hanoi, Vietnam
I was excited to visit Hanoi. Not because it was my first visit into a new country, it was (exciting in itself), but because I was curious to explore the current culture and spirit of a former opponent and see their capital city. I spent twelve years in the Navy and although I mostly waltzed through those years with a baseball bat in my hand, during the times I wasn’t playing ball, I fought the cold war, and although Vietnam was not the priority, they were part of the game. After I visited Red Square a couple of years ago, Hanoi was high on my list. I felt like I was meeting a longstanding internet chess opponent face-to-face and I was excited. I wanted to see the sights, walk the streets, and talk to the people I had only visualized. Food, oh yeah there is that also!
THE PEOPLE
My wife and I stayed near Hồ Gươm (Sword Lake), in the historical center of Hanoi. It was suggested by someone along our recent travels to wake up early and see the locals doing their morning physical routines around the lake. It was a beautiful morning, a perfect location and many were out, ranging from solitary stretchers to themed exercise clubs and activities.
In the large spaces we saw and heard varying groups all with their music ranging from Johnny Mathis to Michael Jackson, Charlie Pride, and ballroom. As we stopped to watch, characteristically, my wife Charlotte, could not keep her feet still, and locals from a nearby group, without English skills but full of smiles, would warmly and enthusiastically encourage (read: drag) us to join in. I declined not to show off but Charlotte ended up joining three groups as we walked around the lake. My favorite was the laughing group. No music, but often someone would say something and the group would explode in over-the-top laughter (over-the-top, but infectious, in a good way).
We felt genuine warmth from almost everyone we came in greater contact with, warmth which stood out beyond the tourist dollars. The words kindness, consideration, and polite, linger. Sure, it was crowded, it’s a big city, but with Hanoi, it’s a matter of getting in the flow. It seemed the whole city moved as one, in concert, and it was just a matter of slipping in, or at least trying. Except for the service people, folks are not that verbose, think Maine. At times we scratched the surface with individuals and obtained longer answers or a brief honest opinion. Off the tourist route by a street or two, in a noodle shop crowded by locals, don’t be surprised if the man next to you is quick to be helpful and gesture the proper combination of sides and sauces to combine in your dish, ours did. Or if his wife is also quick to cut in when he was not correct.
Food/Coffee
In a word, the food in Hanoi is great. It’s an up and coming capital city and you can find excellent food at every level. Regardless of whether it’s fine rooftop dining or a small shop spilling out into the sidewalk, people took pride in the food they served. We asked a reliable source about the noodle shop made famous by Obama and Bourdain and was told that there are 100 “great” small family noodle shops in Hanoi, but if we wanted to wait in line and pay four times the going rate to see the plexiglass encased booth #56 where Obama sat, he would provide directions. Instead, we were highly encouraged to eat at one of his local favorites, and we’re happy we did.
Given Vietnam’s history of French colonization, you would expect excellent French bread and I did, but not at this level. Fabulous, perfect French bread is everywhere. Whether you duck into a bar for the cup of the advertised famous stew or soup or sit on a tiny stool eating a sidewalk sandwich, the bread is perfect.
Coffee in Hanoi is everywhere. Hanoi’s coffee culture, like it’s bread, is connected to the legacy of French colonialism. The French first introduced coffee to Vietnam in the mid-1800s. Today Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee producer. Tiny shops everywhere across the city find and roast beans from the countryside. I have a sweet tooth and loved the strong coffee sweetened with condensed milk. I was also surprised by how much I enjoyed the egg coffee. Vietnamese egg coffee is made with egg yolks, sugar, condensed milk, and strong coffee. Thick, and rich, I could easily see how this could become a daily treat.
As we traveled south in Vietnam we learned about the different cultures and attitudes, and the likenesses and differences of the people all coming under the Vietnam banner. State loyalty in the north seemed strong or it may have been that our visit was at the tail end of the Tet Festival holiday. Tet is Vietnam’s New Year’s, 4th of July, and Thanksgiving rolled into one and although mostly a family, stay-at-home celebration, we did see youth performances in the park celebrating their traditions. I was happy to get a glance into the capital city and people of Hanoi and appreciated their warmth, kindness, hardworking tenacity, and loyalty. Regardless of what side you are on now or might have been then those are attributes I can respect. My expectations brought on by my early excitement in visiting this capital city were exceeded at every turn. I hope I can return.
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