I take all of it
The Maratha Confederacy in its heydays was known for patronising temples across the Indian subcontinent. So it wasn’t a surprise to find Samsthans set-up by the Holkars of Indore and Scindias (Shinde) of Gwalior in the vicinity of the Sri Vithala Rukmini Temple.
The black granite stone-cut temple was constructed by the Hoysala rulers (who ruled much of Karnataka at some point) by the one named Vishnuvardhana. Don’t get taken by the colourful gopurams (painted over) and the wall enclosure (later editions) around the temple. The posture and the design of the Dvarapalas near the garbhagriha and much of the temple (minus the gopurams and later additions of course) gave a very quintessential Hoysala architectural feel. Clearly, the Kannada signs in the town isn’t the only Kannada connect apparently. :)
An interesting aspect about the temple is that the Vithala and Rukmini vigrahas are kept in separate grihas (rooms). It was also equally intimate to see pilgrims being allowed to touch the deities in close quarters. As a south Indian, it was a new thing as we are used to stay at a distance (not far but not cheek by jowl either) from the deity/garbhagriha.
A thing about places of heritage in our country is the unsteady mix of the old and new in forms say stone vs mortar, wood vs plastic and so on. It’s not my business but my hope is to see more of the structural pattern to continue the old resilient methods mixed with the palatable new and not the productive mix of gaudiness one comes across at times.
During the trip, I managed to speak with Amma. She said its a must to visit ISKCON’s Sri Sri Radha Pandharinath Temple on the other side of Chandrabhaga river. Okay then.
On a boat ride across the Chandrabhaga, the Maanjhi showed us coins dating back to the medieval era. Worn out but I could notice ‘Chatrapati’ inscribed in the Devanagari script in one of the coins. He told us he found them in the river.
One of things I’d always try is to have prasadam meal at the Annakshetras/Annadana kendras of temples. Something about the food at temples, I must highlight, the simplicity and the austere taste. Alas, I missed it here. Reached late and ended up having lunch at a restaurant instead.
My appreciation for Marathi (Maharashtrian) cuisine and its diversity has grown over time from indifference as a child to love and acceptance now.
Love is such an easy and yet a difficult feeling to express. I could say I liked Pandharpur. Amma had visited earlier with her friends whereas it is my first visit here. Its quaint streets, its friendliness, shrewdness of the few, the calming waters of Chandrabhaga, the dedication of the elderly and the young towards Vithala-Rukmini, the physical and metaphysical touch (स्पर्श) of Vithala and Rukmini vigrahas. I take all of it, with me.
