FASHION HISTORY
The Great Fashion King of Renaissance France
François I had a huge influence upon the developing French fashion industry
For my inaugural post in my new publication, Fashion Police, I began wondering about the history of fashion design. My passion for designing clothes is fairly new and I’m pretty ignorant on the subject. I can name some 20th-century designers, but go earlier than that and I’m clueless.
I began exploring the fashion design of the Renaissance. Did historians know the names of specific designers? But before I could answer that question, I came across a really interesting guy who revolutionized fashion across Renaissance Europe. He wasn’t a designer, but a king.
François I
François I was king of France from 1515 to 1547, known for his extravagant taste in clothing and his love of fashion. He was particularly fond of the latest styles from Italy and often commissioned Italian designers to create new garments for him. He had a keen eye for detail and had a great interest in fabrics, colors, and patterns.
François was quite the influencer, introducing the fashion of wearing collars, slashes on clothing, and codpieces to his court.
We’re probably all seen Renaissance collars (see, for instance, this famous portrait of England’s Queen Elizabeth I), but I was a little confused by what my source meant by “slashes on clothing.” It turns out that, as with François’ other fashion choices, they were associated with wealth and masculinity.
Slashes
Renaissance slashes, also known as “peascod belly,” were a decorative feature that became popular during the Renaissance period in Europe, typically marked as between the late 15th century to the early 17th century. Slashes were cuts or slits made in clothing, usually in the doublet, that revealed the fabric or lining underneath.
The slashes were typically made in the front and sides of the doublet and were often large and deep. They were created by cutting the fabric and then pulling the edges apart to reveal the lining or an undershirt beneath. This technique created a textured, layered look and added visual interest to the garment.
The use of slashes in clothing was also intended to enhance the appearance of the male figure by emphasizing the chest and stomach muscles. They were also used as a functional feature to allow greater freedom of movement, as well as to keep warm.
The slashes were often filled with contrasting fabrics or colors, creating an attractive and colorful display. Some slashes were also decorated with fringes, embroidery, or other embellishments, which added to the decorative effect of the clothing.
Though particular associated with François’ court, slashes became popular in other parts of Europe and were worn by both men and women. The style was a symbol of wealth, status, and elegance during the Renaissance.
Doublets
A few paragraphs above, I mentioned that slashes were often worn above a doublet. Okay, so what were doublets? François I popularized them, too.
Doublets were close-fitting, padded, and typically waist-length jackets that men wore over shirts or under cloaks or coats. Made of various fabrics like wool, linen, and velvet, and often lined with fur or a contrasting fabric, doublets were tailored to fit the body closely.
Doublets often fastened with laces or buttons and had a variety of embellishments such as sleeves, collars, and cuffs. They were also decorated with embroidery, beads, and other adornments to make them even more striking.
Doublets were worn by all social classes, from the wealthy and noble to the common people. They were a versatile piece of clothing and could be worn for both formal and informal occasions, even as a base layer for armor as a padding for protection.
Codpieces
Ever wonder where codpieces came from? Blame François I. Codpieces were another fashion item from Italy he fell in love with and brought to France.
The codpiece was a triangular or cone-shaped piece of fabric that was attached to the front of the breeches or hose, covering the area between the legs.
Its purpose was just as you’d guess: to enhance the appearance of the male genitals and to create the illusion of a larger and more prominent bulge. This was considered a desirable trait during the Renaissance, as it was thought to signify virility, masculinity and power.
Codpieces were often made of the same fabric as the breeches or hose, and were decorated with a variety of embellishments such as embroidery, lace, or braid. They could be fastened with laces, buttons, or hooks and eyes.
In addition to its aesthetic purpose, it also served some functional purpose. It covered the gap between the doublet and the breeches which allowed greater freedom of movement, as well as to keep warm. The codpieces also sometimes stored valuables or personal items, as pockets were not a common feature of clothing during this time. (I’ll take a purse any day!
However, over time, the size of the codpiece began to become excessive and grotesque, and it was eventually seen as a comical and even vulgar element of clothing. The fashion for the codpiece eventually faded out in the mid-16th century.
Textile Industry
During the reign of François I, the textile industry was encouraged and developed, as the king was interested in promoting the art of textile making for the artistic development of new fashions. He brought in many Italian artisans, trained many French artisans, and protected the French textile industry with tariffs on imported textiles.
The textile industry became an important aspect of the Renaissance economy. In France, the industry was primarily focused on the production of wool and linen, as well as of luxury fabrics such as silk, velvet, and brocade.
One of the key centers for textile production in France during the Renaissance was the city of Lyon. Lyon was famous of silk and was home to a thriving community of silk weavers. The industry was so prosperous that Lyon became known as the “Silk Capital of the World.” The silk weavers of Lyon produced a wide range of luxury fabrics, including taffeta, satin, and damask, which were exported to other parts of Europe and beyond.
In addition to Lyon, textile production thrived in other parts of France, such as Rouen, which produced woolen cloth, and Tours, which produced fine linen.
Overall, the textile industry played an important role in the economy of Renaissance France and the production of luxury fabrics such as silk, velvet, and brocade was a significant source of wealth and employment. The industry was also instrumental in the development of French fashion, providing the luxurious fabrics that were used to create the opulent garments worn by the wealthy and fashionable elite.
François I’s influence on fashion during the Renaissance period was indeed significant, and his tastes and preferences had a lasting impact on the fashion of the time.
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