The Met Gala 2023 — A Deliriously Detailed Analysis

And. Here. We. Go. It happened, it amazed and I am here to break it all down. Get a cup of tea, coffee or Martini and prepare for the most extensive Met Gala analysis on the internet…

Frances May
Fashion Police
12 min readMay 4, 2023

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Photo by Mauro Gigli on Unsplash

A glistening, glamorous sparkling celebrity wedding-esque-themed night. A who’s who of Hollywood in a fairytale amalgamation of glitz. Let’s raise a toast to the 2023 Met Gala and begin by taking a trip down memory lane…

A Rewind

Religion, Camp, American a vast array of glorious themes for us fashion writers to get our teeth into.

Firstly, what is the Met Gala? Well, dear reader, this highly anticipated- probably the biggest event in the fashion calendar — is merely a fundraising abut on the grandest scale. It was curated to raise money for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Insitute.

The night is mainly organised by Vouge’s editor-in-chief Miss Anna Wintour and brings together THE celebrities of the moment in one star-studded spectacle. It is known to most fashion lovers, such as myself, as the most important night of the year.

Now I’m going to rewind back to my two favourite Met Galas to prepare you for this year’s analysis.

2018 Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

Nothing, I repeat nothing has ever topped this Met Gala for me. The theme was bewitching and decadent, and the looks are so ingrained within my psyche that I’ll never fully be over it. The key was Miss Kim K herself, who on that evening in question became the Queen of the Met. Kim’s golden perfectly fitted Versace dress and face that was contoured to the gods were of gargantuan cultural significance.

The year was 2018, peak Kardashian time. Kim- Ye were the couple, likes were our currency and the Kardashian-esque street/fitness wear was our obsession. Her look encompassed all this, in a vision of sculpted perfection, this was beauty in the 2010s. And that my friends is the importance of the Gala, it takes the culture and merges it into the world of costume and theatre; its significance is something that should never be underestimated.

2019 — Camp — Notes on Fashion

In 2019 we moved away from religious crucifixes to the stupendously fun and frolicky world of Camp. My main memory was simply an array of pink mist. It felt light, whimsical and the key players- Lady Gaga and Harry Styles.

Harry wore the most iconic male Met Gala look of all time. The sheer, the simplicity, the earrings, the look ahead of 2019.

Again, the image rests deep within my psyche, as there is something just so gorgeous that it omits. I’m going to use a term here that I’ll come back to a few times in this piece and that is pronounced chic. Now, by this term, I mean strong, vivid, bold but subtle and not overstated. Harry’s look perfectly encompassed these elements, making it so striking it feels like that of a painting.

Gaga. Gaga did what Gaga does best- camp. She didn’t just bring a look, she brought a performance which is a must-watch for any Met-Gala lover.

In it, she plays the part of, let’s just say, Mrs Camp. The lightness, the flicks, the constant look of surprise. The men around her then begin to unveil her, alongside her dear friend and designer Brandon Maxwell. In this fifteen minutes of pure campery, Gaga does not break character once. A small carriage then appears, and everything starts to come off- to which you hear paparazzi say ‘There’s a reveal!’. Then more shock from Gaga, as we see the classic black dress delivered with an umbrella. Can we also take a moment to appreciate the over-exaggerated golden eyelashes- the drama. We then move to the third, what we think is the final layer — A PINK DRESS. More Shock, and Monroe- esk moves to accompany. Next, a telephone touching on her own Gaga-verse, referencing / not referencing…

We then get a whole ensemble performance of Camp and Gaga putting on makeup with the Paparrazi. And the final layer, simply black underwear — the full feminine physique. Altogether, silly, entertaining and perfectly fitting to the theme. Again, perfectly pronounced chic, but with the extra layers of exaggeration, commitment and theatre. All of these elements are what it takes to win the Met Gala.

Now read on, to see who achieve Gaga levels this year…

The Theme

The theme this year was well… controversial. However, this is a fashion review. I’m not here to get political, I’m here to analyse so here’s my take on the theme.

Karl Lagerfeld: A Line in Beauty

The theme will be focusing mainly on Karl’s work for Chanel and Fendi. Meaning you need to be going classic and pure, think pearls and tweed. Then within this, there should be elements of how Lagerfeld took the fashion of old and re-invented it to make it contemporary. Take for example a classic Chanel suit but heightening the cut and using more modern colours such as pink and purple- see below.

He loved strong cuts, extreme shoulders and classic colours such as black and white, and not forgetting touches of the gothic. With the incorporation of Chanel, expect many a Chanel Bride, a quintessential statement piece for this brand.

Now Cats. Lagerfeld’s Cat Choupette, was his pride and joy and still to this day lives an exceptionally lavish lifestyle. The incorporation of feline energy will be paramount to this particular Gala. The question is by who?

What I personally would have worn

Cringe, but I don’t care because I love my idea.

So, if I were to have attended (in an alternate universe!) I would have fully gone with the Cat theme but then mixed it with the touches of Karl. All black, with a hood of a Cat going over my head and then a regal body that drapes for miles across the carpet.

Then the signature Chanel tweed weaved in and also a long cat string toy to give it some pizzazz. I’d want my makeup to have subtle hints of white on my eyelashes, and possibly even white lipstick depending on if it worked or not. Giving a black and white glamour cat with all the Lagerfeld touches needed to fully unify this theme.

The Build-Up

For my main bulk of Met Gala analysis, I come to you from a coffee shop. I am prepped with my notebook, Chia Iced Tea and ready to give you a humongous deep-dive into the biggest night in fashion.

This was the first Met Gala without the backdrop of Covid, so the air last night (even in my London bedroom) was filled with exhilaration and anticipation. I had the Vouge coverage showing on my TV, and the most recent pap pics refreshing on my laptop, I was ready.

First Reaction

So here are my first notes.

The first element I noticed was the carpet, it wasn’t what I was expecting. I was thinking it was going to be full white but instead, it had a couple of coordinating colours giving vibrancy

White everywhere, a bridal-like theme, thick fabrics, Chloe Finneman’s cat handbag. Lots of little touches such as Nicole Kidman’s bow, and nice nods to Largefeld- very clever. A classical Fairytale vibe in the air. The first few looks were a nice welcome back but I wasn’t wowed yet…

Second Reaction

As the night swirled on I really started to get excited.

I jotted down words such as romantic, historic, regal and chic. Mostly, pure Chanel and the feeling that this Met Gala is a giant fairytale celebrity wedding. The footage is vibrant and buzzy, and the are looks and coming in thick and fast.

Now for my winners…

The Winners

Doja Cat

Doja did the cat, and my oh my what a perfect way to bring herself as an artist being a CAT and Karl’s beloved Cat together, with an almost spookily prosthetic face. The bejewelled silver Oscar De Le Renta Gown was distinct but not in your face, the cat face on the other hand you couldn’t miss. How she managed to still look so stunning with the face of a Cat is beyond me. A moment, thank you Doja.

Penelope Cruz

One of this year’s co-chairs and she brought us Hollywood.

What is a co-chair? The Co-Chairs help to create the atmosphere. They select some of the interiors, put together the guest lists and also act as greeters within the event.

Penelope came dressed in a beautiful Chanel sheer gown from Couture Spring / Summer Collection 1988. It gave off a bridal yet regal essence to the nth degree.

My favourite poser of the night, she was confident and self-assured, present and oozed effortless sophistication. One of my most loved looks, more for just her as a person; bringing that old-school 90s Hollywood we so desperately and nostalgically cling to. I adore the dress too, fair and alluring, detailed and was a perfect nod to the classic Chanel Bride.

Kim Kardashian

Not one of my favourite Kim looks, she went with an elegant Schiaparelli bodycon and referenced her pearl look from one of her first photoshoots ‘you’re doing great sweetie’, by covering her body in 50,000 worth of pearls.

The press is saying it's an accident that she referenced the old Kardashian episode. However, this is what you have to understand about the Kardashians- nothing is an accident. Kim knew exactly what she was doing, she was aware that wearing pearls would bring the video back into circulation keeping the Kardashian name at the top of the trending sphere. Job well done.

I like this touch as I adore it when celebrities reference their past. It’s clever, bringing in the easter eggs to create a feeling of mystery and elation.

Kardashian, this year, has moved away from the shock factor. In 2021 she went faceless, and then in 2022, the Monroe dress caused a huge backlash. In 2023, Kim has taken more of a backseat with a subtler approach. Still a lovely look, but I hope next year we go back to something a bit more risque…

Lil Nas X

I wasn’t too sure how this was a reference to Karl, but I adored the pure drama of it. Nas turned up sprayed head to toe in silver, donning a matching thong and not forgetting the Swarovski crystals. Altogether bamboozling and bedazzling; he created astonishment and humour, and I loved the skipping up and down the carpet. I’m a fan.

A celebrity like Lil Nas X is destined for Met Gala greatness, he has the silliness and courageousness to go far. His last few looks have served, and with this kind of portfolio, I expect his next Gala to be more elevated and go to the next level.

Nicole Kidman

A sentimental moment. Nicole sported her iconic 2004 Chanel No. 5 dress. Ultimate Chanel, and a perfect gesture to Karl. The actress looked incredible, of course. My one note would be that I needed more from the hair. She had it down, and it was understatedly chic, BUT for this Met Gala which is an all-encompassing celebration of Chanel, just down isn’t enough. Chanel is all about sophistication and Cosmopolitan, her idea here was to contrast. Yet, Karl wasn’t about messiness, think more about rigidity. The hair needed something extra, although I did enjoy the bow.

As a side note, let’s discuss the 2004 Chanel advert. This era was a truly marvellous time for the Perfume ad, Chanel being the crowning jewel. You see Nicole run through the streets of New York, with her stunning dress flowing onto Time Square street and her lover staring out of a shining C, then Nicole is seen performing the classic starlet turn on the red carpet solidifying her as THE movie star of the 2000s. I’m gushing at this point, but my oh my do I love this advert.

Jared Leto

Scratching my ‘Funny Met Gala Look’ itch, our second Choupette, and pure feline. I loved it, this will be an image that sticks when I think of this Met Gala, altogether fun, taking the theme and pushing it to the complete max.

Leto wanted to fully commit to being a cat, and the designers came through. One of the biggest shocks of the night, this costume was kept top secret. He didn’t want anyone to know that the Cat was him until the last minute, which he brilliantly achieved. Jared brought the mystery and astonishment that we oh so crave.

Anne Hathaway

The Princess of Geornovia gave that Versace sensuality and perfectly pronounced chic, fitting the brief while bringing those gorgeous cuts that only my favourite brand can pull off. A hot favourite of the night; a demure, dramatic and momentous Versace look. Also, can we mention the Brigitte Bardot hair, giving a European goddess mystique- magnificent.

Andrea must have taken all that Miranda Priestly wisdom, as Hathaway has made a fashion comeback in the past couple of years. Her recent serves are carefully curated, bang on the trends and effervescently unique, probably the reason Versace picked her as their new IT girl. Did I mention they’re my favourite…

Jessica Chastain

Come through Gucci- my favourite look of the night! Bringing The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo.

The Gucci girl. Glamorous, Powerful, Feminine, Blonde and Hollywood. Just everything. Giving the theme of Karl Lagerfeld with his mysterious and intimidating demeanour, and putting it into the female form- genius.

Crystal clear and fitting of the theme. THE fashion girl, touching on the likes of Donatella Versace- the glasses! Jessica, like Gaga, committed to her role. Another must if you’re going to be a winner in the Met Gala, really and I mean REALLY play the part. Jessica, being the talented actress that she is, was devoted and masterful in bringing this 15-minute part to life.

Another key component in order to win at the Met is to debut something brand new. We’re used to this actress with her vibrant red locks, and here she introduced us to Blonde Jessica- a lady not to be messed with!

The Trends

Icy Whites, Romance and the BOLD.

The trends present at this Gala include Icy White, Gothic Chic, Historic References and the Modern-Day Fairytale. I predict a romantic shift in fashion, with more classical feminine pieces making their way into the summer zeitgeist and classical gothic black/ whites, looping back to our Winter trends. I’m thinking much white, block colours, and dresses. Think snowy to contrast the hotter months.

I’m also envisioning the return of the 2017 icy white hair, or what is becoming known as Barbie Blonde, moving away from balayage. Think vivid.

The Final Round-Up

A lovely well-rounded Met Gala, however not topping 2018/19 for me- but hey maybe that’s just my nostalgia.

The looks were striking, romantic and bold. We’re back to the full Gala glory and it’s tremendously exciting. I thoroughly enjoyed, and wow there were some stand-outs. Although, in my opinion, the celebs could have been even more risque, I wanted more memes and drama. Yet the stage has been set, mark my words next year the looks will be elevated further and maybe even back to the heights of 2018.

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Frances May
Fashion Police

I'm an experienced Trend Analyst and Freelance Actor. These are my musings on fashion and life; brought to you with humour and the odd pop culture anecdote. ..