Fashion industry has long been a major pillar of Indonesia's economy. This sector is said to have contributed nearly 20% of the nation's creative economy industry revenue. The evolution of the fashion world is, of course, closely intertwined with the textile industry. Despite its significant impact on the nation's progress, the textile industry is notorious for its detrimental effects on the environment. In fact, it has been ranked as the second-largest polluter globally, following the oil and gas industry.

To foster sustainable growth in the textile industry, research and development efforts must be oriented towards clean and eco-friendly technologies. This includes addressing aspects such as raw materials, production processes, waste management, and end-of-use products, as well as the energy utilized throughout the entire system. Undoubtedly, this concept aligns with various targets set forth in the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

One source of textile industry emissions stems from the production of its raw materials. Synthetic fibers, such as nylon, acrylic, and polyester, are derived from petrochemical products, including petroleum and natural gas. The exploitation of these two fossil resources is, of course, unsustainable and closely correlated with various environmental degradation phenomena, such as global warming and habitat destruction.

To create a responsible production concept in line with SDG 12 targets, eco-friendlier polymers, such as polylactic acid (PLA) and polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA), can be used as raw materials for textile fibers. These polymer materials are known to be biodegradable, possess characteristics similar to conventional synthetic fibers, and can be produced from non-fossil raw materials, such as wheat, sugar beet, and other starch-containing substances. Their processing can be facilitated by microbes during fermentation, either by direct one-stage conversion or via a multi-step production flow. Also, to enhance efficiency and implement a circular economy based on reduce-reuse-recycle (3R) principles, this conversion process can also utilize waste-based raw materials, such as food and industrial waste.

In addition to synthetic fibers, the textile industry also uses natural fibers like wool and silk. However, for some, silk fiber production is still considered exploitative and cruel towards animals. Also, the high energy consumption during production also renders silk manufacturing less environmentally friendly compared to other fiber materials. That being said, a Japanese startup, Spiber, has developed a super-strong silk-inspired fabric material via low-energy process, i.e., fermentation. Simply put, specific genetically engineered microbes can convert sugarcane, corn, or even cotton waste from used clothing to become structural proteins mimicking silk threads. Not limited to clothing, similar polymers are also materials used by Adidas to manufacture one of their shoe products. What’s more, this material technology is being further developed for potential applications in the automotive industry.

Another method to produce biotextiles is the "weave and grow" technique. Through this approach, specific bacteria can grow and accumulate thin nanocellulose fiber particles, the shape of which can be customized using molds. This process is similar to 3D printing and has been leveraged by a startup called Modern Synthesis to manufacture shoes.

This is Grown. (Microbial Weaving) — YouTube

This video shows a technique to 3D print shoes using bacteria.

Not only textile raw materials, environmental pollution from the textile industry also largely comes from the use of dyes. In addition to their hazardous waste for aquatic ecosystems, synthetic dyes are also derived from petrochemical products. Currently, a startup called Vienna Textile Lab has successfully developed several natural dyes based on microbes. Unlike plant-based textile dyes, the colors produced by fermenting specific bacteria can be produced on a large scale stably without being affected by weather or the need for pesticide supplementation. This innovative product has been proven to be used on both natural and synthetic textile fibers.

Fast fashion trend also demands high production activity in the textile industry. To create a responsible consumption pattern in line with SDG 12 targets, clothing products that are no longer used by consumers can actually be recycled into new products. A similar concept has been adopted by well-known manufacturers, such as Uniqlo. Used clothing can be degraded back into cellulose with the help of enzymes, bacteria, or fungi and processed into new fabrics. By forming a closed cycle of production materials and consumption products, the resulting fashion products will be carbon neutral.

In the end, it is undeniable that the textile industry plays a significant role in a country’s economic progress. In order for this industry to continue growing sustainably, the implementation of circular economy principles at the production and consumption levels will be effective in making the fashion world more environmentally friendly. To achieve this goal quickly, the government can strengthen regulations and create a certification system to promote the concept of "microbe-based fashion" to relevant stakeholders, such as investors, researchers, startup enthusiasts, environmental communities, and others.

The Nationally Determined Contribution (NDC) is a crucial document that describes a country’s commitments to tackle climate issues. As with other countries, Indonesia has updated its NDC prior to the 2021 United Nations Climate Change Conference (COP26), which is currently running until November 12, 2021. This is the first time for Indonesia to revise its NDC since the initial ratification succeeding the Paris Agreement in 2015.

As part of the G20 and the fourth most populous country in the world, Indonesia certainly plays a significant role in global climate action. Furthermore, what are the changes in the 2021 version of Indonesia’s NDC compared to the previous document? How will these changes affect the government’s strategic policy in dealing with global warming over the next few years? Here is a brief review of revised points in the updated document:

Integration of the medium and long term national development plan

In the first NDC, Indonesia set a mitigation commitment to reduce emissions by 29% without international support (unconditional mitigation scenario or CM1) and 38% with international support (conditional mitigation scenario or CM2) by 2030. These targets continued Indonesia’s commitments revealed at the 2009 Climate Change Summit in Copenhagen during the Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono’s leadership era and the derivatives of the nine national priorities of development programs (Nawacita) proposed in President Joko Widodo’s first term. In the latest document, however, the existing targets are integrated into the National Medium-Term Development Plan (RPJMN) 2020–2024 and the Indonesia Vision of 2045. In addition, the government has also prepared a complementary document called “Long-Term Strategy for Low Carbon and Climate Resilience 2050 (LTS-LCCR 2050)” as a blueprint for the long-term plan for implementing low-carbon national development. This document also declares Indonesia’s target to achieve “net-zero emissions” by 2060 or earlier.

Projected emission reductions with international support

In terms of mitigation ambition, there are slight changes in the quantitative targets set out in the latest NDC version, namely reducing greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs) by 29% (CM1 scenario) and 41% (CM2 scenario) relative to the projected business-as-usual scenario of 2.87 Gt CO2e (gigatonnes of carbon dioxide equivalent) in 2030. With international support, however, emission reductions faintly increase for some sectors, vis., energy (from 14% to 15.5%), waste (from 1% to 1.4%), and forestry (from 13% to 24.1%). In addition, the latest document also clarifies the difference between emissions from the agriculture and forestry sectors. The agricultural sector only takes into account emissions from rice cultivation and livestock, whereas emissions related to the “food estate program” are calculated as one of the contributors in the forestry sector. What’s more, Indonesia also incorporates the implementation of the “One GHGs-data Policy” as a form of data inventory in support of more efficient evaluation and transparency.

Ambition in the energy sector

Based on the 2010 data, the forestry sector was the most significant contributor to GHGs (647 Mt CO2e), followed by the energy sector (453.2 Mt CO2e). However, 2030’s business-as-usual scenario shows that the energy sector will be the main contributor to GHGs (1,669 Mt CO2e) and exceed the number of emissions from the forestry sector (714 Mt CO2e). This shows a need for extraordinary efforts from the government and related stakeholders to decelerate the rate of emission growth in the energy sector.

In the newest NDC document, the Indonesian government mentions the reformation in fuel subsidy policy to reduce its consumption. Also, the allocation of this subsidy fund could be diverted for the development of renewable energy and the construction of various low-emission mass transportation projects. The Indonesian government has also abruptly accelerated the implementation of the “Mandatory Biodiesel 30 (B30)” Program by 2020 — 10 years ahead of the intended plan stated on the NDC’s 2016 version. This policy requires mixing 30% biodiesel for petrol fuel (commonly known in Indonesia as “bahan bakar solar”) to reduce dependence on imported fuel. However, the government’s attitude in prioritizing biodiesel in lieu of other renewable energies has drawn widespread criticism, mainly related to the deforestation problem caused by the expansion of palm oil plantation-the raw material of biodiesel. For that reason, the Indonesian government needs to strengthen the Indonesian Sustainable Palm Oil (ISPO) certification system to prevent the boom in emissions coming from the forestry sector as a potential cost of this biodiesel policy.

As an alternative, the Indonesian government also needs to speed up the development of municipal-waste-based energy through solid collaborations with local governments. In this concept, communal solid and liquid wastes, especially those from urban areas, are converted into energy in various forms, such as vehicle fuel, cooking gas, and electricity, which can help to reduce dependence on natural gas, oil, and coal. Currently, there is Presidential Regulation Number 35 of 2018 on Acceleration of Construction of Thermal Generation Facilities for Converting Waste into Electricity Energy with Environmental Sound Technology as a base to initiate the construction of waste-to-energy plants in targeted cities, albeit the construction progress needs expenditure.

Correlation with other international conventions

The latest NDC document clarifies the linkage of existing targets with other international conventions, e.g., Convention on Biodiversity (CBD), Convention to Combat Land Degradation and Desertification (UNCCD), RAMSAR convention, Sendai Framework on Disaster Risk Reduction (SFDRR), and Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Obviously, emission reduction targets in the forestry sector are closely related to the agenda for conservation, restoration, and rehabilitation of forest lands — home to Indonesia’s mega-biodiversity assets — and have an essential role in preventing various natural disasters. Mitigation and adaptation strategies proposed are also in line with the targets in SDG 13 and other goals. In fact, the pivotal role of gender equality in tackling climate issues is explicitly mentioned.

Strengthening adaptation strategies to climate disaster

In the updated NDC, climate change adaptation strategies are described more comprehensively compared to the older version. There is no doubt that climate change has increased the intensity of various natural hazards, such as floods and droughts, thus threatening human existence. In the second appendix of the NDC (Annex 2), three adaptation approaches are economic resilience, social and livelihood resilience, and ecosystem and landscape resilience.

Economic resilience aims to reduce the impact of climate change on the sustainability of food, energy, and water supplies. The existing plans include the provision of financial protection schemes for the agricultural sector, increasing crop seed resistance to climate change by genetic engineering technology, improving water system management, etc. Social and livelihood resilience aims to be accomplished by developing an early warning system for potential climate change-related disasters, strengthening the country’s Vulnerability Index Data Information System (SIDIK), increasing public awareness of the detrimental impact of global warming, etc. Then, ecosystem and landscape resilience is planned to be achieved through implementing best practices from social forestry as an inclusive effort to improve forests’ ecosystem services, improving mangrove management as a means of protecting coastal areas from tidal flooding due to sea-level rise problem, expanding green spaces to lessen the effects of warming air temperatures in urban areas, etc.

In general, it can be concluded that this latest NDC document has clarified some of the points described in the previous version. However, the lack of change in mitigation ambitions, especially in terms of cutting the level of GHGs emissions, is the biggest criticism for this updated pledge. In fact, Indonesia’s climate commitments stated in this newest NDC are still categorized as “Highly Insufficient” according to the Climate Tracker rating as of November 1, 2021. However, the Indonesian government argued that the urgency at this moment was to fulfill the previous commitments and propose systematic medium and long-term implementation plans, rather than making more ambitious yet unrealistic targets — especially after calculating the technical challenges faced by the government to achieve NDC targets over the past few years.

Judging from these explanations, in your humble opinion, does the Indonesian government take these global climate actions seriously? Or, are these changes in the newest NDC merely a gimmick to participate in an “international greenwashing festival”?

Nationally Determined Contribution (NDC) merupakan dokumen kunci yang memuat komitmen iklim suatu negara. Seperti halnya dengan negara-negara lain, Indonesia telah memutakhirkan dokumen NDC-nya sebelum pelaksanaan Konferensi Perubahan Iklim PBB 2021 (COP26) yang saat ini sedang berjalan hingga 12 November 2021. Momen ini merupakan pertama kalinya Indonesia merevisi dokumen NDC sejak ratifikasi awal pasca Perjanjian Paris 2015.

Sebagai bagian dari G20 dan negara dengan penduduk terbesar keempat di dunia, tentunya Indonesia memegang peran besar dalam pergerakan iklim global. Lebih lanjut, apa sajakah perubahan yang ada pada NDC versi 2021 ini dibandingkan dokumen sebelumnya? Bagaimana perubahan ini dapat mempengaruhi kebijakan strategis pemerintah dalam mengatasi isu pemanasan global selama beberapa tahun ke depan? Berikut merupakan ulasan singkat dari poin-poin revisi yang ada:

Integrasi terhadap arah pembangunan nasional jangka menengah dan panjang

Pada NDC pertama, Indonesia menetapkan komitmen mitigasi berupa penurunan emisi sebesar 29% tanpa bantuan internasional (unconditional mitigation scenario atau CM1) dan 38% dengan bantuan internasional (conditional mitigation scenario atau CM2) hingga tahun 2030. Target ini merupakan kelanjutan dari komitmen Indonesia yang disampaikan pada KTT Perubahan Iklim 2009 di era kepemimpinan SBY dan bagian dari 9 program prioritas pembangunan nasional dalam Nawacita di periode pertama kepemimpinan Presiden Joko Widodo. Pada dokumen terbaru, target-target yang ada telah diintegrasikan pada Rencana Pembangunan Jangka Menengah Nasional (RPJMN) 2020-2024 dan Visi Indonesia 2045. Selain itu, pemerintah juga menyusun dokumen pelengkap “Long-Term Strategy for Low Carbon and Climate Resilience 2050 (LTS-LCCR 2050)” sebagai acuan rencana pelaksanaan pembangunan rendah karbon jangka panjang. Dokumen ini juga menjabarkan sasaran pemerintah Indonesia untuk mewujudkan “net-zero emission” pada tahun 2060 atau lebih awal.

Proyeksi penurunan emisi dengan adanya bantuan internasional

Secara ambisi, ada sedikit perubahan target kuantitatif yang tertuang dalam dokumen terbaru NDC Indonesia, yaitu penurunan emisi gas rumah kaca (GRK) sebesar 29% (CM1) dan 41% (CM2) terhadap proyeksi skenario business-as-usual sebesar 2,87 Gt CO2e (gigaton karbon dioksida ekuivalen) per 2030. Dengan adanya bantuan internasional, target penurunan emisi GRK kini berubah, di antaranya pada sektor energi dari 14% menjadi 15,5%, sektor limbah dari 1% menjadi 1,4%, dan sektor kehutanan dari 13% menjadi 24,1%. Selain itu, dokumen terbaru ini juga memperjelas perbedaan definisi antara sektor pertanian dan kehutanan. Sektor pertanian hanya memperhitungkan emisi dari lahan padi dan peternakan, sedangkan emisi yang berasal dari lahan food estate diikutsertakan dalam sektor kehutanan. Kemudian, Indonesia juga telah menambahkan “Kebijakan Satu Data GRK” dalam NDC sebagai bentuk inventarisasi agar mendukung upaya transparansi dan evaluasi data yang lebih baik dan efisien.

Ambisi pada sektor energi

Berdasarkan data pada tahun 2010, sektor kehutanan merupakan penyumbang emisi gas rumah kaca terbesar (647 Mt CO2e) dan diikuti dengan sektor energi (453.2 Mt CO2e). Namun, proyeksi pada skenario business-as-usual di tahun 2030 menunjukkan bahwa sektor energi akan menjadi kontributor utama penyumbang gas rumah kaca (1.669 Mt CO2e) dan melewati kuantitas emisi dari sektor kehutanan (714 Mt CO2e). Hal tersebut menunjukkan bahwa perlu adanya upaya besar dari pemerintah dan stakeholder terkait untuk menghambat laju kenaikan emisi di sektor ini.

Dalam NDC versi 2021, pemerintah Indonesia menjelaskan bahwa penghentian program subsidi BBM bertujuan untuk mengurangi konsumsi energi fosil. Selain itu, alokasi dana subsidi ini dapat dialihfungsikan untuk pengembangan energi terbarukan dan pembangunan berbagai proyek transportasi massal yang lebih rendah emisi. Kemudian, pemerintah Indonesia juga telah mempercepat pengimplementasian “Kebijakan Mandatori Biodiesel 30 (B30)” per 2020, atau 10 tahun lebih cepat dari target pada NDC versi 2016. Kebijakan ini mewajibkan pencampuran 30% biodiesel pada bahan bakar jenis solar sebagai upaya pengurangan ketergantungan terhadap impor BBM. Meskipun demikian, sikap pemerintah dalam memprioritaskan biodiesel dibandingkan energi terbarukan lainnya ini menuai banyak kritik, terutama disebabkan oleh adanya isu deforestasi akibat ekspansi lahan kelapa sawit yang merupakan bahan baku dari biodiesel. Dalam hal ini, pemerintah perlu memperkuat sistem sertifikasi Indonesian Sustainable Palm Oil (ISPO) agar mencegah kenaikan emisi di sektor kehutanan akibat adanya kebijakan biodiesel ini.

Sebagai alternatif, pemerintah Indonesia juga perlu mengakselerasi pengembangan energi berbasis limbah domestik (municipal waste to energy) melalui kerjasama dan sinergitas yang kuat dengan pemerintah daerah. Melalui konsep ini, limbah domestik berbentuk padat dan cair, terutama yang berasal dari perkotaan, dapat dikonversi menjadi bahan bakar kendaraan, gas untuk kebutuhan memadak, ataupun sebagai sumber listrik perumahan sehingga dapat mengurangi ketergantungan terhadap bahan bakar berbasis gas alam, minyak bumi dan batu bara. Saat ini telah ada Perpres Nomor 35 Tahun 2018 tentang Percepatan Pembangunan Instalasi Pengolah Sampah Menjadi Energi Listrik Berbasis Teknologi Ramah Lingkungan yang menjadi landasan untuk menginisiasi pembangunan Pembangkit Listrik Tenaga Sampah (PLTSa) di berbagai wilayah. Meskipun demikian, progres pelaksanaan pembangunannya masih perlu untuk diakselerasi.

Korelasi dengan perjanjian / konvensi internasional lainnya

Dokumen NDC terbaru memperjelas keterkaitan target yang ada dengan komitmen-komitmen pemerintah pada perjanjian internasional lainnya, seperti Convention on Biodiversity (CBD), Convention to Combat Land Degradation and Desertification (UNCCD), RAMSAR convention, Sendai Framework on Disaster Risk Reduction (SFDRR) dan Sustainable Development Goals (SDG). Tentunya, target penurunan emisi di sektor kehutanan sangatlah berkaitan erat dengan agenda konservasi, restorasi dan rehabilitasi hutan yang merupakan rumah bagi berbagai aset biodiversitas tanah air serta memiliki peran krusial dalam mencegah terjadinya berbagai bencana alam. Selain itu, aksi mitigasi dan adaptasi yang tertuang dalam NDC juga sejalan dengan target-target yang ada dalam SDG 13 maupun goal lainnya. NDC terbaru ini juga secara eksplisit menekankan pentingnya peran kesetaraan gender dalam mencapai komitmen iklim yang ada.

Penguatan strategi adaptasi terhadap perubahan iklim

Dibandingkan dengan NDC versi sebelumnya, strategi dalam aspek adaptasi perubahan iklim terdeskripsikan secara lebih detail dan komprehensif pada dokumen terkini. Tentunya, saat ini perubahan iklim telah memicu peningkatan intensitas berbagai bencana alam, seperti banjir dan kekeringan, yang terus mengancam keberlangsungan hidup manusia. Pada lampiran kedua NDC (Annex 2), terdapat tiga jenis pendekatan adaptasi, di antaranya: ketahanan ekonomi (economic resilience), ketahanan sosial (social and livelihood resilience), serta ketahanan ekosistem dan lanskap (ecosystem and landscape resilience).

Ketahanan ekonomi bertujuan untuk mengurangi dampak perubahan iklim terhadap keberlangsungan pasokan pangan, energi dan air. Strategi yang dicanangkan meliputi pengadaan skema perlindungan finansial khusus pada sektor pertanian, peningkatan kualitas dan ketahanan biji tanaman terhadap perubahan iklim melalui teknologi rekayasa genetik, perbaikan manajemen sistem air, dan lain-lain. Ketahanan sosial dilakukan melalui pengembangan sistem peringatan awal terhadap potensi bencana akibat perubahan iklim, penguatan Sistem Informasi Data Indeks Kerentanan (SIDIK), peningkatan kesadaran masyarakat terhadap risiko bencana alam akibat pemanasan global, dan lain-lain. Kemudian, ketahanan ekosistem dan lanskap dilakukan melalui pengimplementasian best practice dari konsep perhutanan sosial yang inklusif dalam menjaga dan mengembalikan fungsi hutan, restorasi lahan mangrove untuk melindungi area pantai dari banjir rob akibat kenaikan permukaan air laut, peningkatan lahan hijau untuk mengurangi efek pemanasan suhu udara di wilayah urban, dan lain-lain.

Secara umum, dapat disimpulkan bahwa dokumen NDC terbaru ini telah memperjelas beberapa poin yang ada pada versi sebelumnya. Namun, minimnya perubahan ambisi pada aspek mitigasi, terutama dalam hal pengurangan level emisi gas rumah kaca, merupakan kritik terbesar yang disampaikan oleh banyak kalangan. Bahkan, komitmen iklim Indonesia dalam NDC terbaru ini masih termasuk dalam kategori “Highly Insufficient” berdasarkan rating Climate Tracker per 1 November 2021. Meskipun demikian, pemerintah Indonesia berargumen bahwa urgensi saat ini adalah untuk memenuhi komitmen yang telah dibuat sebelumnya dan merancang rencana aksi jangka panjang yang lebih sistematis dibandingkan meningkatkan target yang sifatnya tidak realistis, apalagi setelah mempertimbangkan tantangan yang ada di lapangan selama beberapa tahun terakhir.

Berdasarkan hal-hal tersebut, menurut Anda, apakah pemerintah Indonesia benar-benar serius terhadap komitmennya untuk menanggapi ancaman iklim global? Atau perubahan-perubahan yang ada dalam dokumen NDC terbaru ini hanyalah gimmick semata agar Indonesia tetap terlihat berpartisipasi dalam “festival greenwashing” skala internasional?