9 Days in Namibia: Landscapes

If a tree falls in the desert and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?

My husband Thor is from Windhoek, so trips home mean heading to Namibia. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting twice, and there’s still so much to see and do. It’s a photographer’s dream, and the fact that it is one of the world’s least densely populated countries makes it a unique experience.

You’ll need to be a good driver to complete this trip, or you can also hop on one of the small private planes that transport people from lodge to lodge to save time (but it will come with a price tag). Here’s a great template for first time visitors based on my experience. This part is focused on the desert and beach landscapes of Namibia, which really sets it apart from other African countries. The second part (coming soon) is dedicated to safaris and animal viewing.

Itinerary

Flight day:

• Flight from NYC -> Johannesburg -> Windhoek. We usually fly South Africa Airways. There’s a Newark -> Cape Town flight that United offers for those interested in spending some time in the coastal South African city.

Day 1: Windhoek

• It’s a 40 minute drive at best from Hosea Kutako International Airport to the main city of Windhoek. You can pick up a car from one of the rental agencies and start settling in. Remember, Windhoek is at a high elevation — over a mile up — so you’ll want to get acclimated. A meal at Joe’s Beerhouse is a classic stop.
• We always stay with family, but there’s tons of B&Bs like The Elegant Guesthouse or Galton House in the city that will offer you a central place to stay as well as a hearty breakfast. The Hilton Windhoek, The Olive, The Windhoek Luxury Suites and Heinitzburg are among the top luxury hotels.

Day 2: Windhoek

• Time to explore Windhoek. On my first trip, we stopped by Tintenpalast, the seat of both chambers of the Parliament of Namibia, the National Council and the National Assembly. You can also stroll through the Parliament Gardens. Also, visit the Hero’s Acre, which is a memorial for war heroes.
• Enjoy a sundowner on the rooftop of the Hilton Windhoek. It’s a great way to get a view of the city from up above.
• Go to the very cool and Jojo’s Music and Arts Cafe for some of the most innovative Windhoek cuisine.

Day 3: Windhoek

• You could dedicate a few hours to the National Museum of Namibia ACRE.
• Afterwards, stop by the Namibia Craft Center for some shopping. Usually I don’t like to pick up gifts so early in the trip since I’ll have to lug it around, but this place has the best quality crafts at reasonable prices. It’s an art gallery-gift shop all in one.
• Enjoy some fine dining at Leo’s At The Castle, which has an excellent view.

Day 4: Swakupmund

• At this point, you should be acclimated to Windhoek. So it’s time to hit the road and go to the coast! It’s about 3.5 hours to Swakupmund on paved roads. There’s tons of guest houses and AirBnBs in this beach town, so you’ll have plenty of options to stay at.
• One of the fun parts of the this area is the gigantic sand dunes extend all the way to the ocean. “Mad Max: Fury Road” was filmed in this region to give it that post-Apocalyptic look. It’s time to go sand boarding or ride some ATVs! It’s a thrilling experience to be able to go up and down these sand hills, which shift with the wind. No experience will ever be exactly the same.
• Grab dinner at The Tug, which is right on the pier and will give you a great view of the Atlantic Ocean.

Day 5: Swakupmund

• You might want to check out a desert wildlife tour, like Charly’s Wildlife Tour’s Living Dunes Experience or Batis Birding Safaris and Day Tour’s Eco Desert Tour. You’ll get to see all kinds of creatures like geckos, sand-diving lizards, the famous fog-basking Tok-Tokkie beetle and more that inhabit the dunes.
• Grab a local lunch at the Village Cafe.
• Explore Walvis Bay. Take a catamaran or kayak yourself around the area to see shipwrecks and the lighthouse. Or, if you loved your 4 X 4 experience, try taking a quadbike out to see the seals.

Day 6: Swakupmund

• Spend some time with the locals. You can tour a township or go on a food tour to try the local eats.
• The Old Steamer Restaurant is another favorite for sampling some regional seafood.

Day 7: Soussuvlei

• You’ve got another long drive ahead of you to get from Swakumpund to Soussusvlei, the center of the Namib desert. It’s about a 5 hours and 15 minutes, and a pretty desolate road so you want to start early and arrive at your destination before sunset.
• The town of Solitaire is a traditional pit stop, and a great place to refuel with gas and food. Stop by Moose McGregor’s Desert Bakery for a piece of apfelstrudel.
• The road itself is very desolate, but there’s animals running around the vast space. We saw vultures and antelope along the our journey.
• There’s tons of places to stay in the Soussuvlei, including Desert Camp and Kulala Desert Lodge. We’ve stayed at the Elegant Desert Eco Camp, which is a great glamping experience and excellent for stargazing (see photo above). We also overnighted at the Soussus Dune Lodge, which is a government-run lodge inside Namib Naukluft Park. The accommodations are excellent, and because you’re inside the park, you’ll have extended hours to visit the dunes if you’re driving yourself.

Day 8: Soussusvlei

• Time to drive out into the dunes! If you are up for the challenge of driving yourself, you can journey on the dry riverbed to the famous dunes including Big Daddy, the tallest sand dune in the area. Make sure to spend some time gazing at the Deadvlei and its haunting trees. Most lodges will also offer their own guided tours, so if you’d rather relax and enjoy your surroundings this is a good option.

Day 9: Soussusvlei -> Windhoek

• After enjoying a beautiful sunrise over the dunes, it’s a 5-hour drive back to Windhoek if you’re looking to catch a flight to your next destination. Check out our next part if you’re interested in exploring more of the wildlife in Namibia on a safari. (Coming soon)