I reviewed 8 Santa Maria Novella Perfumes
One of the oldest perfume houses in the world.
I recently had the pleasure of getting the Santa Maria Novella Discovery Kit Firenze 1221. A pharmacy rooted in the rich cultural and historical tapestry of Florence, Italy, Santa Maria Novella represents more than just perfume.
Their oldest cologne, the famous “Acqua della Regina”, commissioned initially by Caterina de’ Medici in the 16th century for her marriage to Henry II of France, is one of the oldest perfumes that is still sold today and is celebrated for its historical significance in the perfume world. And it was in the discovery kit!
Below are my thoughts on each of the eight cologne samples. But first, an overview of the house…
A historical monument
The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella in Florence stands as presumably the world’s oldest pharmacy, founded in 1221 by Dominican friars. Located near the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, this historic shop offers a unique journey back in time, allowing visitors to explore a treasure trove of fragrances, herbal remedies, and artisanal products. The pharmacy’s roots are intertwined with the basilica’s history, featuring artwork by Italian masters and a rich heritage of medicinal herbs used by the friars for centuries.
Today, while embracing some of the modern production techniques, Santa Maria Novella remains dedicated to its tradition of using natural ingredients. Visitors can explore the historic shop, including the former Chapel of San Niccolò, the elegant Green Room, and the Ancient Apothecary, each filled with beautifully crafted products that carry the essence of Santa Maria Novella’s Florentine legacy.
Santa Maria Novella in popular culture
In the movie “The Talented Mr. Ripley” (1999), Tom Ripley, played by Matt Damon, cleverly uses a Santa Maria Novella perfume in one of his ruses to impersonate Dickie Greenleaf. At his typewriter, Tom drafts a letter as Dickie, placing it into the luxurious perfume package from the renowned Florentine brand, recognizable by its logo.
He gives this package to Marge Sherwood (Gwyneth Paltrow), Dickie’s girlfriend, as if it were a gift from Dickie, suggesting, “He was thinking of you. He asked me to deliver this.” Marge replies, appreciatively yet with a hint of suspicion, “Thank you. He knows I love this. Although why it couldn’t have waited…”
Interestingly, the original novel by Patricia Highsmith mentions a different fragrance, hinting at Prince Matchabelli’s Stradivari. And while it has been a moment since I watched the French 1960 adaptation — “Purple Noon” (“Plein Soleil”), with Alain Delon, I don’t remember a perfume scene here. Hence, the Santa Maria Novella detail was incorporated specifically in the 1999 adaptation.
In the James Bond film “Casino Royale” (2006), after the death of Vesper Lynd (Eva Green), James Bond, embodied by Daniel Craig, goes through her handbag in the hope of understanding her, their time together and her betrayal better.
In the next scene, the contents of her black, embroidered handbag are revealed: a tiny seashell from their carefree days on Italian beaches, a sleek camera, her white cell phone, a linen handkerchief, a book of poetry, a black wallet, and notably, a large bottle of Santa Maria Novella’s Melograno. And apparently, Eva Green uses Santa Maria Novella’s perfumes as her signature scents in real life, too.
In the original cult series “Gossip Girl”, episode 8 of season 5, titled “All the Pretty Sources”, Prince Louis Grimaldi (Hugo Becker) returns from Florence and brings a Santa Maria Novella gift package to Blair Waldorf (Leighton Meester) as an appology for their latest fight. He jokes, “Feel free to bash the imperial lavender over my head if you’d like.” Blair responds, “That won’t be necessary.”
So, how do some of their best-known fragrances actually smell?
The 1221 Kit
Discovery kits like this serve as an awesome gateway to explore and appreciate the diverse range of scents a perfume house has to offer, before deciding to buy a full-size bottle of a perfume.
This Santa Maria Novella 1221 exclusive discovery kit offers a curated selection of eight 2 ml spray vials, featuring some of its most iconic fragrances. Included in this kit are Acqua della Regina, Angeli di Firenze, Fresia, Melograno, Pot Pourri, Rosa Gardenia, Rosa Novella, and Tabacco Toscano — each offering a unique glimpse into the rich olfactory heritage of this venerable Florentine perfume house.
Here is my ranking
8. Pot Pourri (1828)
This is a more masculine-leaning fragrance, but I would still not want to smell it on my husband. Instead of potpourri petals, to me, the first thing that comes to mind is — Vaporub. Although not listed in the notes, I smelled eucalyptus very much, straight from the opening. Later, it dries down gradually to thyme, lavender, rosemary and Peru balsam. Unfortunately, I cannot smell cloves very much here, which are one of my favourite notes. Obviously, as this is a very old blend, in those times, fragrances were used for medicinal and clarifying purposes, which explains this smell. It would be good for aromatherapy.
Rating: 4/10
Star Notes: Camphor and lavender
When to wear it: On a sick day.
7. Rosa Gardenia (2021)
This is, actually, one of their more potent white floral scents. Unfortunately, to me, it smells a bit rotten. I don’t know why, but although I know that white flowers are at the centre here, I get this image of a dead floral bouquet in a compost recycling bin. Something about this cologne just kept profoundly bothering me. I assume it is the listed almond blossom note, because I cannot really place it. But if you like gardenia and jasmine, you will probably also like this.
Rating: 3.5/10
Star Notes: Gardenia, jasmine and almond blossom
When to wear it: If gardenia, jasmine, and white florals are your favourite notes, then you can wear this one on a warm day.
6. Melograno (1965)
While named after a pomegranate, surprisingly, it mostly resembles a less glamorous version of Chanel №5. You’d expect a burst of red fruitiness, but instead, this is an aldehydic blend that echoes the classic familiar DNA. The pomegranate is very subtle, almost hidden beneath traditional chypre layers that feel refined and vintage. While I appreciate chypre fragrances, this smells very dated to me. I gave it to my mum; she liked it a lot and even thought it was easier to wear than Chanel №5.
Rating: 5/10
Star Notes: Aldehydes and oakmoss
When to wear it: When you feel mature enough and ready to pull this off. I am just not there yet.
5. Acqua della Regina (1533)
Their legendary oldest perfume is a beautiful, classic cologne. It is like those 4711 ones from Maurer & Wirtz, but a bit more feminine. It was made to serve a queen; I imagine it on a dark-haired woman with a sophisticated plan in life. This is a very classic, aromatic and familiar scent. Unfortunately, it does not last very long.
Rating: 5/10
Star Notes: Neroli and lavender
When to wear it: I would actually wear this to bed. The aromas are soothing and relaxing; it does not last long, so it would not bother my husband or me while sleeping.
4. Fresia
This is both an “old lady” and a “clean girl” scent. The freesia is there in the opening when sprayed on paper and clothes, but it evaporates rather quickly on my skin. Then, the powdery iris comes through and lingers on with the musky base. You are left with a soapy smell, but like those old, white and cream soaps our grandmothers used to have in their drawers. The longevity is quite good, and the sillage is moderate.
Rating: 5/10
Star Notes: Iris, musk, and freesia (of course)
When to wear it: I would wear this to the gym, but I suppose it is also a good work scent.
3. Rosa Novella (2020)
Oh, this is a very elegant, simple, yet sophisticated, woody rose. And speaking of TikTok trends, this would actually go well with both last year’s “old money/quiet luxury” trend and this year’s “mob wife aesthetic.” It is such a timeless scent.
Rating: 7/10
Star Notes: Rose and patchouli
When to wear it: I would wear this to a formal event, but if you have an elegant style and are going for a classic, “dark feminine” vibe, this is a good signature scent option.
2. Angeli di Firenze (2006)
Another clean girl scent, but this time a fruity floral, and very intimate one. It opens up with a light pear and orange scent that disappears quickly. What is left is a mixture of jasmine, blackcurrant, and aquatic, ozonic notes that leave a strange, latex-like smell on my skin. Other than that, this would be, in my opinion, the perfect scent for that fresh, “out of the shower” kind of feeling. It stays very close to the skin. It is almost like those minimalist “non-perfumes” that are popular now.
Crafted in 2006 for the 40th anniversary of the 1966 Florence flood, it is a tribute to the Mud Angels, young volunteers from around the world who helped save Florence’s heritage after the natural disaster. I am unsure if I would buy the perfume, but I would maybe buy some of the other scented products (wax tablets, candles or creams, for example).
Rating: 6.5/10
Star Notes: Peach, blackcurrant and jasmine
When to wear it: This is a great office scent, that would not bother your co-workers.
1. Tabacco Toscano (2008)
One thing you have to know about me is that I LOVE tobacco perfumes. So much so that I will write a whole article about tobacco perfumes right after this. The official Santa Maria Novella website says it was inspired by the term “Herba catharinaria” — another name tobacco leaves got because Catherina de’ Medici used them to treat her migraines.
To me, this is a light, beautiful, and completely unisex tobacco and vanilla fragrance. If you are more of a typical gourmand or floral girly, this might lean a bit masculine to you. But to me, it is just perfect. I liked it so much that I added it to my signature scents list (yes, I like to have more than one) and will purchase it in September 2024 at the latest (yes, I have a perfume-buying schedule — I am that weird).
Rating: 8.5/10
Star Notes: Tobacco leaves and vanilla
When to wear it: On cool and rainy autumn days.
