One Fry, Everybody Knows the Rules
About the author: George Dimopoulos’24 is an FSI The Europe Center Global Policy Intern with Bruegel. Gerorge is currently an Economics major at Stanford University.
As my time to begin working as a Bruegel intern in Brussels drew near, I began to eagerly research what life is like in Belgium. Although I was excited to embark on this eye-opening journey of self-growth, I was very nervous. Having lived in the same house in Hammond, Indiana my entire life, the concept of living entirely on my own was daunting, let alone in another country. In addition, I did not know much about Belgium, so I wanted to ensure that I knew my way around beforehand.
It was during this preliminary research that I stumbled across Belgium’s infatuation with fries. What us Americans call “French fries” actually originated in Belgium, and were introduced to American soldiers by francophone Belgian soldiers during World War I (hence the French misnomer). Growing up in the Midwest, where a side of fries accompanied the majority of my childhood dinners, I had to give them a try.
In fact, I did much more than just that: I made an effort to try every “friterie” — the French name for restaurants specializing in fries — that I encountered. This quest has led to me trying over ten friteries across a multitude of Belgian cities. With my newly self-appointed title of Belgian fry connoisseur, I present to you my official ranking of the top five Belgian fries.
Before I delve into the rankings, I must outline the standardized process I used to objectively rate the fries I try. First, I consider the texture. Belgians cook their fries using a specific procedure: they first fry the potatoes in lower-temperature beef fat oil, then flash fry them in higher-temperature oil just before serving. This double-fry process gives the fries a crunchy outside and a soft, fluffy inside.
Next, I evaluate the quality of the mayonnaise served alongside the fries. Before working in Belgium, I would have embraced my Midwestern heritage by opting for ranch dressing instead. However, Belgian mayo differs significantly from what we are used to in America. It is thicker, less tart, and has a creamy texture akin to tzatziki. Thus, I assessed how well the mayo’s coolness complements the fries’ crunch and high salt content.
My final rating does not involve the fries I consume, but rather the atmosphere in which I consume them in. Friteries are very distinct from regular restaurants, as most of them operate as stands in the middle of main squares. This is perhaps why they are so iconic in Belgian culture: the food is cheap and they are open late into the night, which makes going to one a perfect midnight snack. While friteries serve a simple role, their atmosphere is much more complex. The clientele is always different: am I standing in line with twenty-somethings who just left a nightclub, or am I sandwiched between four fifty-year-old men continuing a conversation they had at a neighboring pub? It felt too important to leave out of the full review.
Without further ado, here are my rankings:
1. Frit Flagey: Pl. Eugène Flagey, 1050 Ixelles
Texture: 8.8 | Mayo: 10.0 | Atmosphere: 8.7
A no-frills friterie in the middle of Place Eugène Flagey, often considered the gold standard of Belgian fries. A fan favorite, this friterie was saved from closing in 2008 by around two-thousand locals petitioning against the stand’s demolition by the city. Perfect for a bite to eat after a Wednesday afternoon at the Marché de la Place du Châtelain.
2. Friterie de la Barrière: Av. du Parc 5, 1060 Saint-Gilles
Texture: 9.3 | Mayo: 8.4 | Atmosphere: 8.3
The Saint-Gilles equivalent of Frit Flagey in terms of cult following. Try to arrive as early in the day as possible, as their freshest fries are served during rush hour.
3. Frituur Vandermeulen: Rue du Bailli, 1000 Bruxelles
Texture: 8.3 | Mayo: 8.5 | Atmosphere: 7.2
Situated in the middle of Avenue Louise, this friterie is known for its friendly service and generously priced carbonnade flamande. It has varying hours of operation, so be sure to stop by if you see it open!
4. Fritland: Rue Henri Maus 49, 1000 Bruxelles
Texture: 7.9 | Mayo: 8.2 | Atmosphere: 9.5
I started my fry journey here, at one of the most well-known friteries in the heart of Brussels. With an abundance of seating under umbrellas near the Grand Place, Fritland allows you to rest from the sun while enjoying fresh fries imported daily.
5. Frituur Tartaar: Heilige-Geeststraat 3, 9000 Gent
Texture: 7.7 | Mayo: 7.8 | Atmosphere: 10.0
This friterie resides adjacent to Sint-Baafsplein in the heart of Ghent. Go on a Saturday night in July or August to hear a live carillon performance beside Het Belfort van Gent!
This fry reviewing quest has been fruitful in more ways than simply satiating my appetite. Above all, it has encouraged me to venture beyond the tourist landmarks of the city and explore more residential areas of Brussels. This has allowed me to get a taste of everyday life in the city and has provided me the opportunity to speak with Brussels locals. Before moving here, I had never spoken French, so going to friteries off the beaten path has also forced me to familiarize myself with the language in ways that I would not have by staying in touristy locations. I am excited to continue exploring the city during my final weeks here, whether that means adding more friteries to my rankings or not!
