The definition is loose, but recognisable. In Europe ‘Pagan’ symbolises pre-Christian’ as a concept, and accordingly, late arrivals to Christianity often retain the most Pagan element in their culture: it is no coincidence that Santa Claus is seen to reside in Finland, and he remains above all a symbol of pagan lore. The flying reindeer and red face of Santa both point to the magic mushrooms of the Arctic forests, and the tinsel we fondly decorate the Christmas tree with is representative of semen, fertilising nature.

Of course the Christmas tree itself is the strongest symbol of the European pagan ‘World Tree’, with it northern star at the top. Indeed, European paganism is truly a religion of the forest.

Outside of Europe, and in the context of paganism as the worship of nature, or closeness with nature, Japan would be the most pagan nation, with Shintoism being essentially the worship of nature. How this happy religion, and its joy of nature became also a religion of self sacrifice and suicide with the kamikaze suicide pilots of WWII is hard to fathom, but all religions have been subverted in the course of their history, most tragically European paganism itself by the Nazis and their veneration of forests and nature equalling purity, and more specifically the use of runic writing in their symbols, as well as the Indian swastika, itself notionally paganistic.

Along with Japan, Mongolia’s nomads officially and culturally venerate nature, and Kazakhstan next door have long debated making Tengriism, the Turkic/Asian pagan religion/belief the state religion. Indeed, Kazakhstan’s small neighbour, Kyrgystan is the only country with a ‘pagan’ flag: the number 40 holds significance in Tengriism, and the flag’s sun/hut has forty rays. In fact Kyrgystan itself means ‘land of the forty.’

However, back in Europe, the populations of two countries who express themselves as least formally ‘religious’ (about 35%) yet ‘spiritual’ (65%), and who hold large festivals about nature — the Latvian Līgo and Estonian Jaanipäev festivals celebration of the summer Solstice being the best example, are in my mind the most intensely and actively pagan. Both countries have forests covering approximately 50% of their territory and an almost sacred connection ‘their’ nature.

In truth, many areas of Eastern Europe, such as Ukraine, Romania and Bulgaria retain many pagan traditions.

Estonia probably carries the mantel as the most pagan country in the world, however, in terms of worship of nature, with 20% of Estonians recognising Maausk as the ‘true’ religion of Estonia, a philosophy venerating nature, in particular trees, and ancestors.

Trees

one metre from my door
my most dependable allies
provide shade and shelter
my walls, table and stool
my floor, perfume and view