‘The Black Traveller’ recalling my experiences in Rio de Janeiro
It took me three days to take out my DSLR in Rio. Three days of tentative, no-more-than-twenty-minute strolls around our Lapa/Centro neighbourhood (we decided to move Airbnb on our 3rd day). Three days of encouraging myself to engage in conversation beyond the tousled grunt of I don’t understand Portuguese, or the constant mispronunciations of reals.
As a first generation immigrant, of Nigerian and Ugandan decent, I am well acquainted with the notion of not feeling at home. During my family holidays in Lagos I became used to the relentless inquests into the legitimacy of my Nigerian heritage. For example Nigerian culture dictates that a) you are your father’s heritage and b) you claim the country of your birth (this ironically switches in a cosmopolitan country such as the UK). However I’m not here today to debate about the tender politics of nationality, instead I’m hear to advocate how creativity can assist in transcending these boundaries.
It was the warmth of a Saturday morning market in Rua Carlos Sampaio, Lapa that finally encouraged me to bring out my camera. Marsha N, my girlfriend, and I were in the process of switching apartment when we were informed of a near by market. Needing supplies we set off knowing full well that we couldn’t avoid taking photographs much longer. The majority of the holiday to that stage had been spent shaking off the rigours of a tiring overnight flight, watching the Paralympics on our TV, or taking a few hopeful punts at some local random restaurants (though we did manage to stumble across the Escadaria Selaron the night before). When we eventually brought out our cameras we were pleasantly greeted to the welcoming and inquisitive culture of the Brazilian people, instead of the ‘danger’ that would paranoid anyone if you browse the Internet too long. Eager to make up for lost time, we wondered through the market being delighted to a dazzling array of fruit, friendliness and livelihood.
I highlight this time as the turning point on our trip because it’s the moment where I really embraced my vulnerability as a tourist. The nature of vlogging requires a certain degree of nonchalance, and after roaming the streets of South America with a gorilla pod and a semi-professional camera attached on the end I can definitely enthuse that I’ll never be apprehensive about vlogging in public ever again. In my experience, creativity often presents windows for completely different worlds to interact. My camera acted as an invitation to story-tell, perhaps most wonderfully illustrated when a Samba artist paraded me and my girlfriend hand in hand, as a symbol of welcome at a street party.
If I’m being honest I didn’t even realise we’d have the opportunity to go to the Paralympics. I wanted to avenge missing the 2014 Word Cup but the prices to travel in August (when the Olympics were) was too expensive. But its one thing wishfully proclaiming to your mates that you want to go to Rio in 2010, to actually standing there six years later not exactly knowing why you made this wish a reality. It’s definitely the most intimidating place I’ve visited in regards to unfamiliarity, and I’d sincerely encourage anyone who’s thinking about not visiting another part of the world because they don’t know anybody there, or can’t speak the language, to do the exact opposite.
I genuinely feel privileged to have witnessed such a different culture and greatly enjoyed my-not-very-planned forages around the city, an experience heightened by the sort of independence that can only be obtained through D-I-Y ventures such as Airbnb. I’m proud of myself for having the audacity to travel where I want, and for gaining the confidence to travel independently.
It’s also important to acknowledge my position as a black tourist. Having now travelled to Africa, South America and a few locations across Europe it’s interesting to observe how limited the perception of the tourist is beyond the white race. More interestingly it’s eye opening to observe other cultures behaviour towards black people. To quote an interview with John Boyega and the Evening Standard, I too agree that it is important for a black person to visit a country where they are the majority, not the minority. It’s crucial to acknowledge the existence of black people beyond the charity appeals we see on TV, or colonial territories that we’ve been placed in, and thats an experience I’ve only ever personally witnessed when I’ve travelled to Nigeria. Even in a place as multi-cultural as Rio I could still see the impact of racism present in the status of the Black Brazilians in society. As a black person myself I’ve had to readjust my thinking, almost to remind myself that anyone can travel anywhere, a concept that directly opposes our colonial teachings. Therefore the notion of the ‘black traveller’ is one that is still taking shape and growing in stature. I feel a sense of responsibility to nurture this image, to protect it from the stereotypes that racism provokes, and open the world to the fact that well, yes, black people can afford to travel.
Even in spite of racism, there are still many positive aspects to take away from the Brazilian way of living. The quality of life for the elder citizen is perhaps the most obvious; with old people fulfilling a much more active role in society, (shout out to the granny going h-a-m at the outdoor gym) even deep into the evening. I learnt that they do not like to eat heavily at night, which contrasted greatly with my university influenced eating habits, recalling the wild glares I received whilst transporting my box of dominos from Ipanema beach on a 30 minute journey back home. They love to dance, socialise outside and be active (activities our colder climate prohibits) and they breathe football - with every outdoor bar and radio station dedicated to captivating pedestrians as they wait for the signal ‘gooooal’ to celebrate in ecstasy. It was nice to observe that they didn’t glamorise foreign football leagues such as the La Liga or Premier League in neglect of their local teams, and it was exciting to witness how one of the most multi-cultural cities on our planet exists; something that resonates with me as a Londoner.
From the moment I boarded the flight I felt vulnerable. Everybody on the plane was speaking in Portuguese, talking to each other intimately as if they’d just found a long lost sibling, their words forcing me to reconsider my intentions on this flight. Truthfully I’m still not sure why I visited Brazil, other than a genuine curiosity for their culture and the fact that they were the first football team I supported. When I use my camera, though, I’m communicating in a language that is much farther reaching than any nationality that you or I may originate from. Creativity inspires me to do things that I’d otherwise be anxious to, whether that be interviewing strangers on the street for an art project, taking my camera out in the middle of a violent protest or vlogging in a country internet forums would advise not to bring out any valuables at all. As human beings we all share a great interest in story telling, or at the very least a cheeky selfie, and if photography can assist in creating a more serene human experience then all the better for us. It’s a power that, thanks to modern day technological advances, a larger number of us have in our pockets. It’s a power that enables us to discover new places, make new friends and share our experiences with a wider audience. It’s a power that we really should utilise more.
All photographs (unless stated) taken by myself. Please check out my Instagram and YouTube Channel as well.
