Get the look: The designers bringing you a Dystopian Future
One of the key trends to emerge from the recent AW17 London Collections: Men was an exploration of what the future might hold for us all.
Expect to see sleek and shiny fabrics, construction that takes its cues from Star Trek, and an other-worldly sensibility that lets the world know that you’re already thinking about tomorrow.
If this is a style that appeals to you, then here are some of the designers that you could look to for inspiration.
Tourne de Transmission
Graeme Gaughan — creative director of Tourne de Transmission — described his creative process for the AW17 collection:
‘It reflects on my teenage years, and tries in some way to understand how my adolescent self would react to the recent political isolation of youth, the division of ideals and the loss of cultural icons.’
And there’s a sense of rebellion with these clothes. They are practical, ready for action, with little touches of individuality that testify that you are not conforming to the world around you.
With a graphic reference to A Clockwork Orange, this is obviously a fairly literal representation of the dystopian future trend. But Xander Zhou’s collection is a lot more intelligent than that — exploring identity and how we are shaped by the world around us. Zhou contrasts over-sized jackets, lapels, and silhouettes with under-sized knits and tailored shirts. These are clothes that keep you guessing.
Hodges titled his AW17 collection Dystopia Lives – referencing the film Total Recall (1990) which featured graffiti written in defiance of the Martian governor and in honour of Kuato, the psychic alien rebel hero in hiding.
The styling by Harry Lambert, and the use of an informal bucket-style bowler from Christys, gives us obvious A Clockwork Orange references.
But again, what we’re seeing here is an exploration of the future to make sense of the present. Hodges a quote from performance poet Hector Aponysus: “Looking for a vocation in the decline of civilization…”
There’s an optimism within this dystopian rebellion — a belief that darkness can be beaten. In his vision for AW17 Hodges is giving us a fashionable dystopian future that provides a sense of gritty hope.
KTZ always seem to have an eye for the dramatic, and their AW17 had a strong sense of a stylish invading army from the future. Corsetry and lacing is the foundation for their vision of the season — all in a choice of black or khaki green.
Blending the ancient traditions of the samurai with innovative fabrics and exaggerated silhouettes. Orange detailing against a tobacco palette draws your attention and signals fashion-forward.
While most of the collection from 3.Paradis focused on streetwear, this cleverly constructed jacket looks like something out of the Matrix — blending martial arts styling with a futuristic edge.
Originally published at www.gaystarnews.com on January 25, 2017.