Boobies Dive Bombing and Other Delights
Overview and Insights into Galapagos Islands Visitor Sites
“Dive bombing boobies, dive bombing boobies!!” my cruise ship guests hear me yell with energetic, and not at all feigned, excitement as they are about to embark on a trip of a lifetime around the Galapagos Islands. Standing on the pier even before getting on the boat they have their first adventure as a flock of blue footed boobies scans the ocean and, targeting its meal, hits the water beak first with great precision before swooping back into the sky.
Later I’ll start teaching about the habits of boobies, but there will be plenty of time in the coming days for that. Actually, everywhere we go will be filled with learning opportunities. Pristine beaches, lava strewn stretches of land, animals, birds, underwater life and flora that exists no where else in the world, exquisite skies and a whole new culture: that is the Galapagos Islands.
Because each island is different with different adventures, visitors have decisions to make about where to go, how strenuous a trip to take and how long to stay. This is an overview of the visitor site highlights of each island in the Galapagos archipelago. Coming in the future will be detailed information and photographs about each island.
Volcanic, located directly on the Equator, formed by underwater hotspots, spread out over 3090 square miles of the Pacific Ocean and located 600 miles off the western coast of South America, the Galapagos Islands are remote from any other land mass. Though part of Ecuador, the islands are distinctly their own with specialized laws and regulations, mostly focused on conservation and preservation of the land, sea and wildlife. There are 15 primary islands, 3–4 smaller islands and at least 100 rocks and islets.
The largest islands within the archipelago, in alphabetical order, are:
BALTRA ISLAND
Baltra is one of the few Galapagos Islands formed not by a volcano, but by a seismic uplift, meaning that the earth’s crust was lifted by the shifting of the tectonic plates. Small, but also flat and centrally located, Baltra houses the larger of two Galapagos Island airports; the other is in San Cristobal. At Baltra, tourists clear immigration and pay a National Park fee before being transported by bus to cruise ships anchored at Aeolian Bay or to the dock at the Itabaca Canal where there is ferry service to the very proximate Santa Cruz Island.
Baltra;s bird population includes frigatebirds and Nazca and Blue Footed Boobies (the ones we see diving bombing at Aeolian Bay). Baltra is arid and its vegetation is primarily salt bush, prickly pear cactus and Palo Santo trees. The largest conservation threats to Baltra are introduced species that arrive unintentionally by aircraft, both commercial and private.
BARTOLOME
Bartolome is the location of one of the most iconic and photographed sites in all of the Galapagos Islands, Pinnacle Rock. Because it offers such a spectacular view, most Galapagos travelers will find themselves enjoying the splendors of this island.
The Galapagos Conservancy confines visitors to a 600 meter wooden pathway with more than 300 steps to ensure minimal impact on the surrounding landscape and endemic vegetation, animal and birdlife. Look carefully at the rock and lava formations on your way up the climb as to see very interesting volcanic formations of spatter and tuff cones and lava flows. Equally beautiful and enchanting is the beach for snorkeling and swimming. On Bartolome, visitors will be delighted by bird watching and are likely to see herons and hawks. While you are snorkeling, White-tipped Sharks, Galapagos penguins, sea turtles, rays and many tropical fish are likely to accompany you.
ESPANOLA
Espanola, the most southern and oldest island in the archipelago, provides breathtaki ng views waiting to be discovered by every Galapagos Island visitor. Its two visitor sites are diverse and exciting.
Punta Suarez is a dry landing, but be careful not to step on the sea lions lining the path up the trail. Through some fascinating flora and fauna and many lava lizards, you arrive at your ultimate destination — the top of a cliff populated by Blue Footed Boobies and the nesting site for Waved Albatross.
Take in the vista, feast your eyes on bird life flying above you, listen to the Pacific Ocean roaring below you and see the amazing lava blow hole spewing waves and foam up to 30 feet high. Don’t be the least bit surprised if a brightly-colored iguana is soaking up the sun and seemingly enjoying the view along with you.
Also visit Gardner Bay, an exquisite white sand beach perfect for walking and watching the frolicking and resting sea lions, hundreds of which may be seen here at any given time. Here too you are likely to see Espanola Mockingbirds and three species of Darwin finches.
FERNANDINA
Fernandina, the youngest, western-most and third largest island, is an active volcano located on the hot spot that created all of the islands. The most recent eruptions were in 2005 and 2009.
At Punta Espinosa your hike is exciting and diverse. You’ll walk on fields on lava and see countless marine iguanas; literally thousands of them pile on the shores and on each other basking in the sun. Other highlights of this island are Flightless Cormorants, Galapagos penguins, sea lions, Sally Lightfoot Crabs and even Galapagos Hawks. As for flora and fauna, the lava cactus is one of only a very few species able to survive in this lava rock.
The coastline of Fernandina includes Mangle Point, a superior snorkeling and dive site and a beautiful location for riding in a panga through a grove of mangrove trees while viewing sea lions, tortoises, pelicans, rays and birds too numerous to name.
FLOREANA
Floreana is best known for Post Office Bay, where the post office has been operating unchanged since 1793. Like the pirates and explorers of old, drop off your mail, post marked to go anywhere in the world. While you are there, take a look through the mail that has been left by earlier visitors. If you come across a letter you are able to hand-deliver or mail to someone from your home town, you become the personal mail carrier.
Also on Floreana is Punta Cormorant, a beach formed by the erosion of coral skeletons and olivine crystals, which is a nesting site for green sea turtles and prolific with rays. There is a rare fresh water lagoon which is the home to pink flamingos, flycatchers and finch. There are several excellent snorkeling sites at Floreana as well. Or take in the beautiful vista of the Pacific Ocean and the Island itself from the gorgeous Floreana Highlands.
GENOVESA
Genovesa is a remote island, often regarded as the most dazzling of the Galapagos Islands. Small, horseshoe shaped and pristine, it boasts a vast amount of birdlife including frigatebirds, Red-footed Boobies, Nazca Boobies, Gulls, Petrels, Red-billed Tropic Birds, Finches, Shearwaters and Mockingbirds. Sometimes the island is covered with mist, unimposing and difficult to see as you near it. But soon you’ll find that Darwin Bay forms a protected cove with an exquisite white sand beach and a trail winding through mangrove trees and tidal pools. This little stretch of land is quite literally a feast for nature lovers and photographers alike.
Genovesa’s other notable visitor site is El Barranca (sometimes called Prince Philip’s Steps). You start out with a steep and difficult dry landing which is well worth the effort. It is the home to many Red-footed Boobies (by some reports there are up to 40,000 pairs on Genovesa), which live in the Polo Santo trees along the cliff line. Four separate finch species make Genovesa Island their home. Look here for the endemic Galapagos short eared owl.
ISABELA
Isabela is the second oldest and largest island in Galapagos. It accounts for ½ of all of the combined islands’ total land mass. Isabela was formed by the integration of six separate underwater volcanoes, some of which remain active and one of which (Wolf) erupted in 2015. Because of its size and the fact that it arose from the sea as a result of multiple different natural occurrences and eruptions, its landscape is varied and it has many individually interesting tour sites and attractions. Some highlights are:
The town of Puerto Villamil is surrounded by extensive, white sandy beaches with lagoons and wetlands on its borders. A great place to absorb history and culture, the town provides shopping, Flamingo Lake, a Tortoise Breeding Station, the Wall of Tears (once part of an active penal colony on the island), swamps and mangroves, which are the home to a variety of bird species.
Elizabeth Bay is visited to see the mangroves by panga and for snorkeling.
Moreno Point presents a moderately challenging hike over some truly incredible lava formations. The hike is all the more rewarding once you see your first green sea turtle or flamingo along the way.
Tagus Cove, once a hiding place for pirates, offers a winding trail past Darwin Lake up to a ridge displaying wonderful views. It’s also a marvelous snorkeling spot.
Urbina Bay is located at the base of Alcedo Volcano on the west coast, between Tagus Cove and Elizabeth Bay; it’s topography is particularly interesting. This area and Vincent Roca Point are also great places for snorkeling. Vicente Roca Point is a large bay with spectacular sea life including seahorses, sea turtles, and Mola-mola (sunfish).
Sierra Negra Volcano, the largest basaltic caldera in Galapagos and largest unbreached caldera in the world, offers impressive views and the opportunity to observe up to 7 species of finch and a rich display of vegetation. The north side of the caldera provides evidence of its most recent volcanic activity in 2005.
I’ll be posting much more detailed information about the diverse visitor sites on Isabela Island.
MARCHENA
Marchena, though classified as a “major” island, is quite small and hosts no separate visitor sites. It‘s a good location for Scuba diving and snorkeling.
NORTH SEYMOUR
North Seymour was created by a seismic uplift, giving it a rather flat profile. The birdlife is extraordinary on this island, although the vegetation is particularly scruffy and dry. There is a small forest of Palo Santo trees, which rarely is in bloom. You’ll learn about both great and magnificent frigatebirds and are likely to see blue footed boobies, sea lions, land iguanas and even pelicans on North Seymour.
RABIDA
Rabida is not on many Galapagos cruises, but its red/maroon sand beaches are a special attraction if you are lucky enough to get there. The salt-water lagoon’s pink flamingos, stilts and Bahama pintail ducks, as well as a bachelor sea lion colony located in the caves along the coastline are equally awesome. Snorkeling is exceptional around Rabida, where you are likely to see not only sea lions, but also marine iguanas and rays. Bird watchers may see up to nine varieties of finches, Large-billed Flycatchers, Galapagos Hawks and Brown Pelicans nesting in the salt brush.
SAN CRISTOBAL
San Cristobal hosts some of the most spectacular sites in the Galapagos Islands. Often, San Cristobal is the jumping off point for a hotel-based tour because visitors can see so much on day trips and still be immersed in the local culture. Again, I offer just a few highlights here, with detail to follow in future posts.
Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the administrative capital of the Galapagos Islands and the main city on San Cristobal Island, has hotel, shopping and dining opportunities. On San Cristobal Island itself are the National Park’s Interpretation Center, Charles Darwin Tortoise Reserve, Frigatebird Hill, Darwin Bay, El Junco (a gorgeous fresh water lake), Puerto Chino (a surfer’s paradise), La Loberia and other equally breathtaking sites. A really special thing to do on San Cristobal is visit the coffee plantation where you can soak in the local culture.
Kicker Rock is a boat ride from the Island. The view is spectacular; marine life is prolific and snorkeling is great. Located near Kicker Rock is Puerto Grande, a protected cove with a white sandy beach — just perfect for a peaceful walk, swimming and photographic opportunities. Another nearby diving site is Caruga Wreck.
That it is the nesting ground for blue-footed boobies and frigate birds is enough to warrant a trip to Isla Lobos, a small rocky islet off the coast of San Cristobal.
Pitt Point is a favorite visitor site and great for snorkeling. Its reefs are populated by large schools of tropical fish including king angelfish, grunts, snappers, and Alamo jacks. Sea lions, octopus, rays, and whale sharks also are frequently seen nearby.
Witch Hill will delight you with one of the most picturesque beaches in the Galapagos, sea turtles, rays and blue-footed boobies. The ever-popular and personable sea lions lounge on the beach and play in the water.
SANTA CRUZ ISLAND
The largest population center in the Galapagos Islands is Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. Its most important visitation site is The Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS), created in 1960 as a biological research station operated by the Charles Darwin Foundation. CDRS is where the Galapagos National Park Service started the conservation programs to protect and increase the number of tortoises so that they are no longer an endangered species. CDRS was the home of Lonesome George for more than 40 years until his death in June 2012.
The Santa Cruz Highlands have exuberant flora and spectacular lava tunnels as well as giant tortoise populations viewed in the wild. Black Turtle Cove is a site surrounded by mangroves, which sea turtles, rays and small sharks sometimes use as a mating area. Cerro Dragon, known for its flamingo lagoon, is also located here, and along the trail one may see land iguanas.
SANTE FE
Sante Fe Island, created by a geological uplift, is well-known for its snorkeling and for its beautiful lagoon. Your panga will land on a lovely beach from which you will be led on a trail into the opuntia cactus forest. These cacti, some more than 200 years old, are so large that they look like trees and at the right time of year you will see their stunning yellow flowers. Don’t miss the land iguanas (larger and paler in color than others in the Galapagos), lava lizards, x-spiders, doves, hawks, gulls with chicks and other birdlife along the way.
SANTIAGO
Egas Point, replete with delightful little flycatcher birds, is the primary visiting site on Santiago Island. Don’t be surprised if a little flycatcher lands on your head, hands, camera or anything else. Also seen here are marine iguanas, sea lions and both land and sea turtles. The other special attraction on Santiago Island is the fur seal grotto. This is the only Galapagos Island where you are likely to see them.
MINOR ISLANDS AND SITES
Visitation on Daphne Major and Minor is restricted to scientific purposes. The islands are significant as the locale for important finch population studies. Your cruise nearby the islands will bring you within sight of not only finches, but also Nazca boobies, owls, martins, and Red-billed Tropic Birds.
China Hat, named for its unusual shape, is another small, but mighty, location filled with sea lions, hawks, penguins and a beautiful hike.
Darwin’s Arch has no visitor sites but is quite a site to see and has spectacular snorkeling and scuba diving.
Pinzon Island, the geographical center of the Galapagos Island group and excellent for Scuba divers, has no visitor sites and is bound by cliffs on all sides. Marine life includes sea turtles, eels, rays, marine iguanas, dolphins and even lobsters.
Pinta Island is best known as the home of Lonesome George who, until his death in June 2012, was the last known example of his subspecies of giant Galapagos tourist. Pinta, the most northern island, has no visitor’s sites currently.
South Plaza Island is extremely beautiful and a wonderful opportunity to see Galapagos wildlife and vegetation. North Plaza Island is not opened to visitors, but used strictly for scientific research at this time. South Plaza Island has a huge population of yellowish/brown land iguanas. You may walk along the beach and view the sea lions on South Plaza and some visitors find this a fun place to swim. The snorkeling is also excellent.
Wolf is a tiny island, and not often visited. It is home to fur seals, frigatebirds, Nazca and Red-Footed Boobies and many other examples of marine life.
Concluding words: The Galapagos Islands are diverse and spectacular. You’ll be awed wherever your adventure takes you.
Harry Jiménez, Owner and General Manager
Galapagos Eco Friendly
Av. 12 de Febrero y Av. J Roldo
San Cristobal Island
Galapagos, Ecuador SCY
Reservations: 593 052 520 124
Email: info@galapagosecolodge.net
A similar article was originally published at blog.galapagosecolodge.net.
