Gender Fluidity in Fashion: The Devil Wears Whatever The F*** He/She Wants!

Joylita Smith
GBC College English — Lemonade
6 min readDec 14, 2019

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According to the dictionary, Non-binary- in terms of gender- is an “umbrella term used to describe any gender identity that does not fit into the gender binary of male and female. The Non-Binary Spectrum is for anyone unable to identify with a fixed gender- In other words, they can be male, female or anything outside/in-between. This paper will explore the reasons why gender-fluidity in high fashion will likely have positive effects on mental health by opening more options for those who chose not to follow traditional gender guidelines.

Gender norms in fashion have existed as long as there have been clothes to sell. Though religion plays a large role in why gender norms exist, for many the choice to stick to these norms is just based on what we believe to be socially acceptable. Brett Lunford states in his 2010 study Clothes Make the Person? Performing Gender Through Fashion “Men and women tend to wear specific styles, colors, fabrics, and articles of clothing. These choices are not based on essential requirements for our bodies, but rather on socially constructed norms of gender.”(2010) Today a lot of these norms root from high/luxury brands and are pushed on the general public by celebrities; From pop signers to football players. Year by year they collectively create what we know as the norm. While pink shades could mean the end to the social life of young men in some schools, those shades could mean the start of a new trend on the face of DaBaby.

“the ways in which individuals habitually perceive and conceive their lives and the social world, the alternatives they see as open to them, and the standards they use to judge themselves and others are shaped by advertising, perhaps without their ever being consciously aware of it” (Lippke 1995, 108).

Disrupting these strict gender norms plays a positive role by widening the expressive potential for both sexes. We’ve been proven to show more confidence and happiness when we are able to dress the way we would like to see ourselves. So why should anyone restrict themselves from that purple pencil skirt, just because of an ancient pre-built ideal of what their sex should be wearing? When it’s deconstructed, it sounds pretty silly but it’s a huge challenge undoing centuries of established fashion standards and ending conservative views on gender.

Photo by Tembela Bohle

Though we’ve seen a lot of progress in the last decade, many remain very unsupportive of gender-fluid ideals. A few months ago Pink, one of the highest-paid female artists of 2019, announced that she is planning on raising her children in a gender-nonconforming household.

Pink is known to hate labeling, so it’s unlikely she’d directly use the terms like “non-binary” or “gender fluid” but she stated in her interview that “it’s okay to be or feel whatever you want to be. It’s all okay to me. It’s whatever floats your boat.” Some on platforms such as Twitter did not agree with Pink- instead convinced she’d be raising her children incorrectly. Some Twitter users were disappointed and called it rubbish.

The decision to remain nonconforming is a personal one that deals with our self-image and perception, yet there are many that argue against the right for people to free themselves of the gender binds. It’s possible that these attitudes could have been enforced through traditionalist beliefs held previously in pop culture. This is why I personally feel it’s important for high fashion brands and modern celebrities to show support for non-gender conforming people due to the fact that they remain a strong inspirational force in the world of fashion.

At the present time, we have brands and big entertainers who are encouraging gender-fluid clothing. A few in particular who are a part of the Hip-Hop mainstream- who in intentionally included due to hip-hop’s complex history of anti-queer ideals and over hyper-masculinity .

Jeffery Lamar Williams, better known as “Young Thug” is known for his musical contribution as well as his interest and prominent position in the world of high fashion. I can list off my top five records of his as well as his last three breakups with his current girlfriend.

Sonically Young Thug fits the idea of a gangster rapper but visually this rapper has been known to contradict Urban culture's established idea of masculinity. Thugger (Young Thug) even wore a periwinkle dress on the cover of one of his mixtapes- igniting sections of a traditionally anti-queer fanbase but also opening a conversation on gender dress restrictions. In a 2016 Calvin Klein fall campaign, he stated: “In my world, of course, it doesn’t matter. You could be a gangster with a dress, you could be a gangster with baggy pants. I feel like there’s no such thing as gender.” In a genre were femininity could have once come at the cost of your career, it’s interesting to see Williams frolic in whatever he chooses, with little rebuttal from the rap community.

In addition, he has also put out a music video that promotes gender-fluidity. The music video was for a record called ‘Homie’ in which two black children are playing the piano and holding hands with their faces turned away from the viewers. Both kids are wearing floral printed dresses with close-cut hairstyles. Most people may assume that the kids are females due to the fact that they are wearing a floral printed dress but their gender remains unclear even after they face the camera. With YT’s history of breaking these norms, I think it’s safe to assume the casting was an intentional push toward normalizing gender fluidity through his platform.

Next, a rapper who has put out the current best -selling album of 2019- Tyler, The Creator- who recently revealed himself to be sexually fluid as well, frequently pushes the boundaries of urban fashion into unexpected and softer places.

Tyler also launched his own clothing brand Golf Wang for men that is full of floral patterns, pastel colors and shorts short enough to show off a bit of thigh. The New Yorker did an article about him during his 2016 fashion show where he states “growing up as an inner-city black kid, I wasn’t the most masculine. I wasn’t into sports, I liked pink and shit.” He also opens up about being bullied and told, “pink is not what real men wear.”

Both these male acts have encouraged others to rethink and challenge gender norms without having to feel isolated. Both should be celebrated for their efforts in progressing an industry still struggling with hyper-masculinity (extremely or excessively masculine as stated by the Merriam Webster dictionary).

Encouraging healthier attitudes towards gender fluidity is beneficial to the health of young children and adults, due to the fact that enforcing gender roles can do damage to children over time. Studies show that children that are subjected to conform to strict gender expectations are at an increased risk for mental and physical health problems during and after adolescence. This is according to researchers from the Journal of Adolescent Health.

Not only are they at risk with mental and physical health issues but there is also a possibility of suicide, because both adults and children feel ostracized and alone. Some are even afraid to say that they identify with anything other than male or female. Studies show every year an average of 500 Canadian children die by suicide. Many of these kids identify as non-binary or trans according to egale.ca.

To conclude gender fluidity in high fashion does have positive effects on western communities by challenging gender-norms and encouraging healthier attitudes towards gender fluidity. One can identify as a gender whether it be or male or female but we should also show support to those who do identify as gender nonconforming or gender fluid. Just by showing love and encouragement to others who are different from you, regardless of your personal beliefs- is much more healthy and beneficial to ourselves and others- especially when the alternative is shame.

Plus being in a healthier environment makes the world a safer and more tolerable place for men women and others like you and me.

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