V for the Vegan Leather Vendetta

Not so chic afterall ; How the uptick in ‘Vegan’ leather production is catapulting us further into the climate crisis and exposure to toxicity.

Photo by Igor Rand on Unsplash

Mass production of what is being branded as vegan leather for the fashion industry should be halted immediately and reconsidered as it significantly adds to the plastic crisis the world is facing today. When the polarizing question of whether the environmental footprint of ‘vegan’ leather outweighs the ethical issues associated with the production of animal leather, an answer has come to light despite most industry insiders being conflicted on the matter. When the facts and figures are added up, it becomes clear. Animal leather is the lesser of two evils and it’s production should be re-worked to be more sustainable. The alternative is a future laced in plastic. From our clothes to our water to our food. Whilst the shift towards heavier usage of vegan leather in the fashion industry is direct evidence that action is being taken in order to address concerns with lives of animals and cruelty against them. This strategic branding preys upon consumers that want to do the right thing. It also means that the planet is being flooded with plastic that will never disintegrate without enough consideration of the long term effects.

So let’s name it ‘Vegan Leather’ ! Horray! a new monster is born!

What the Hell is it Anyways?

In her piece “What is vegan leather, and should you be wearing It?” for the Washington Post, Denitsa Tsekova explains that vegan leather is in fact a more charming way of calling animal free or synthetic leather. It’s most commonly made off PVC ( polyvinyl chloride) and PU ( polyurethane) , acrylic, polyester, and nylon with other toxic man-made chemicals. Simply put it’s regular old plastic. It requires the use of petroleum oil , a non renwable resource and major culprit in pollution. Releasing their toxins into the atmosphere during processing and production. On top of that , it’s not biodegradable or easily recyclable. Meaning your vegan leather leggings are going to outlive you, and probably your kids as well. Isn’t this exactly what we’re trying to avoid? Worse yet, it’s being conveniently branded as being “vegan” to butter up the more environmentally conscious buyers. Which within itself suggests animal and planet friendly.

Who really wants to wear some chemical they can’t even pronounce right? So let’s name it ‘Vegan Leather’! Horray! a new monster is born! Sounds nicer at least. Whilst the shift towards heavier usage vegan leather in the fashion industry is direct evidence that action is being taken in order to address concerns with lives of and cruelty against animals this strategic branding preys upon consumers that want to do the right thing. It also means that the planet is being flooded with plastic that will never disintegrate without enough consideration of the long term effects.

Photo by Joni Gutierrez on Unsplash

Mass Production of Vegan Leather on the Rise

Denitsa Tsekova’s Washington Post report, provides facts about the progress of the synthetic leather industry. She informs that in the U.S. The online availability of vegan leather products has risen 54% between the first half of 2018 and the same period this year, according to retail researcher WGSN Instock. Global demand for synthetic leather has been driven to an annual growth of 7%, reaching $45 billion in 2025, according to Grand View Research; in 2018, global sales of traditional leather was estimated at $95.4 billion. This demonstrates how rapidly the adoption of synthetic or so called ‘vegan’ leather has happened. On top of that, synthetic leather is cheaper to produce making it an even more attractive alternative for manufacturers. Whilst this turn around is direct evidence that action is being taken in order to address concerns. It’s simply not a responsible choice. Considering the current envirnomental crisis our generation and generations to come have to face.

Photo by Emiliano Vittoriosi on Unsplash

Better for the planet? Think not!

When delving deeper into the facts and figures of how much plastic is building up in the planet it’s clear that we’re already way over capacity. In “Fashion’s tiny hidden secret” (2019) we’re informed that 60% of the material made into clothing is already plastic. This has led to 1.4 trillion tons of plastic fibers ending up in the ocean. These plastics are then being ingested by marine life and then ingested by humans. A vicious cycle. The effects of microplastic ingestion on marine life are catastrophic and they have caused starvation, endocrine disruption, stunted growth in some species and broken down digestive systems. The negative effects on human life, while still being researched isnt much better. The UN Environment’s marine environment expert Heidi Savelli says. “I think it’s a human right to not have to ingest plastic.” According to her, we are ultimately poisoning the environment , the animals that also live in it and ourselves. If we don’t take immediate action we will literally be drowning in plastic. We have a right to choose a healthier life free of harmful poisons and impure drinking water and food.

In her article “Are vegan leather alternatives actually better for the planet?” for Nylon Magazine , Jenna Igneri interview’s Céline Semaan, sustainable fashion activist, designer, and founder of Slow Factory. She asks, in her professional opinion which she felt was better for the environment in the long run. In response Semaan states that The animal industry — mainly including meat, and leather not as a byproduct but as its own industry — surpasses the oil industry as the world’s biggest polluters. “However, when end of life is considered, plastic can’t be recycled, while animal leather can either maintain its value and be repurposed, or if disposed properly (which it rarely is) can be — and I say, can be biodegradable.” She also pointed out that leather goods made from animal products are arguably more durable.

Acknowledging the concern that humans are rapidly polluting our environment, the ethical, moral as well as environmental concerns are well founded but when held up against the long term effects of mass production of vegan leather it animal leather pales in comparison. Knowing this, the thought of replacing the animal leather industry with even more plastic is simply ludicrous.

Photo by Velizar Ivanov on Unsplash

the solution to a problem simply cannot be a bigger problem!

The Takeaway?

the solution to a problem simply cannot be a bigger problem! The fashion industry has chosen to go full speed ahead in replacing animal leather, a natural and biodegradable material with a toxic substance that we are already currently battling to keep contained. This tactic needs to be rethought and restructured. While with good intentions , it’s harming our environment and everything that lives within it unmeasurably. As nice of a ring to the name it is, Vegan leather isn’t the answer to our planet’s woes.we need to strip away the palatable vegan branding and get more real about what it really is. Rather we should restructure the animal leather industry. Instead of over production, rely on leather as a byproduct of the meat industry allowing them to be hand in hand. Also up-cycle and re-purpose leather goods . Finally It’s time to be honest and transparent with the market and ourselves! We need to be more personally accountable with what we purchase. At the end of the day, demand and customer holds power. Don’t let empty branding fool you. Know your facts and what the impact of your choices is if we’re to have any hope for a toxin free future.

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Daniella Jasmine T.
GBC College English — Lemonade

Global citizen. Determined to leave the world better than she found it.